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MIddle Row Corrosion...


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So I appear to have found some electrolytic corrosion on the middle row seat box on my 89/90 110. |The drivers side is much worse than the passenger. There are holes also appearing elsewhere, for example close to the middle of the vehicle and between the seat mount and the driver side middle row door.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AgfNx38wUoCdjvI7iAXTpRH_G0Cz8A

What are my options? Can I just rivet new plates in place or is it a welding job?

 

Cheers,

Rich T

 

 

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YRM do a rear floor upstand repair part for that, I've got the same problem on my '89 110CSW, I've ordered the part from YRM on friday, it's this bit 

http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epages/BT4822.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4822/Products/114A/SubProducts/114A-0001

or with the top face http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epages/BT4822.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4822/Products/114B/SubProducts/114B-0001

 

the end caps are on the website too.

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Thanks for the links Ralph much appreciated.

So just been out to have a look and my 'upstand' is a mix of rivet, spot weld and bolts to the rear tub floor. The end caps and seat belt mounts look OK after a good scraping and poke.

So... I'm thinking my best option will be to

  1. remove middle row seats  and floor panel
  2. drill out the rivets and spot welds
  3. undo the bolts
  4. remove the corroded part
  5. paint/treat accessible chassis parts
  6. fit new upstand and rivet / bolt into place ( replacing old spot welds with new rivets)

Does that sound about right? ( I would be going for the first of your links Ralph rather than cutting back into the rear tub / boot floor. )

 

cheers,

 

Rich T

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your thinking above reads OK to me,

when I fit my new upstand [bought the 2nd link version] my rear floor & seat will be coming out too, recently replaced the under seat cross member, so I've no worries about that, I think mine will get some modellers 20 thou plasticard between the alloy upstand & galvanised & painted steel cross member brackets to help prevent any further problems of corrosion.

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Just one more question ( I think! ).

Can I ask why you have gone for the second link version? I can't recall if the upstand originally extends back under the seats. From my recollections of looking last night the original is more like the first link?

Happy to be wrong and will be getting underneath tonight with the scraper to have a really good proddle.

cheers,

Rich T

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I replaced mine this year. ('96 110 CSW). The corrosion was in four places, the two seat mounting brackets and the two pairs of bolts that secure the heel upstand to the crossmember behind it. By the time I had removed the seats and pulled the carpet off the up-stand there wasn't much left of it.

I bought the version in the first link and you are correct in that the top just tucks underneath the front edge of the tub floor and yes, there's a whole host of fixings used - as you say spots, rivets and very small screws/nuts. I drilled them all out along the top of the floor.

The cross member wasn't fixed at all to the up-stand because of the ally corrosion. I bought a galv. version from YRM with the removable brackets which make it easier to refit although to be honest the one I took out was in good condition, much better than I expected it to be but I'd already go the new one so what the heck.

You will find that the ends may have to be dealt with harshly to get the new upstand in and I'd advise that you buy a new pair.

Upstand before.jpg

Rivet 2nd row upstand.jpg

Edited by Peaklander
Add pics
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12 hours ago, fearofweapons said:

Just one more question ( I think! ).

Can I ask why you have gone for the second link version? I can't recall if the upstand originally extends back under the seats. From my recollections of looking last night the original is more like the first link?

Happy to be wrong and will be getting underneath tonight with the scraper to have a really good proddle.

cheers,

Rich T

just because that's the version I want, :)

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Thanks for the pictures Peaklander - yours was in a worse state than mine I think.
So parts are ordered and once here I'll paint 'em up, remove the old bits, paint up the chassis and then 'pop in' the replacements.

In the mean time I have a new heated rear window to fit along with some security film which I am hoping will stop the heater matrix getting broken by all the camping kit we pile up in the back. So that will be another new skill to add to my repertoire. :-) 

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  • 1 year later...

Having lifted a damp carpet and discovered holes in the upstand panels along with horrible gungy white stuff  this is my next project (i am assuming that the gungy white stuff is aluminium corrosion ... but it feels greasy, and my Id have thought it might be dry and powdery?).

Thank you for the pics and pointers as to where to buy new panels. 

The rusty bolts holding the seat brackets on and the floor panel do not look like they will be fun to remove :/

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  • 2 years later...
On 9/26/2016 at 4:31 PM, Peaklander said:

I replaced mine this year. ('96 110 CSW). The corrosion was in four places, the two seat mounting brackets and the two pairs of bolts that secure the heel upstand to the crossmember behind it. By the time I had removed the seats and pulled the carpet off the up-stand there wasn't much left of it.

I bought the version in the first link and you are correct in that the top just tucks underneath the front edge of the tub floor and yes, there's a whole host of fixings used - as you say spots, rivets and very small screws/nuts. I drilled them all out along the top of the floor.

The cross member wasn't fixed at all to the up-stand because of the ally corrosion. I bought a galv. version from YRM with the removable brackets which make it easier to refit although to be honest the one I took out was in good condition, much better than I expected it to be but I'd already go the new one so what the heck.

You will find that the ends may have to be dealt with harshly to get the new upstand in and I'd advise that you buy a new pair.

Upstand before.jpg

Rivet 2nd row upstand.jpg

Hi, im currently changing the same part right now. May i kindly ask if i can change that galvanised crossmember by just cutting the bolts? As in do i need to use struts at each end of the cab to offer support when without / while swapping?

Thanks in advance 

Terence 

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The crossmember has four pairs of bolts. A pair at each end to fasten to the sills and a pair either side of the middle which fasten to the chassis.

There’s also two pairs of bolts that fasten to the 2nd row upstand but not structural as such as that carries just that floor.

It’s ok to remove. The roof weight will be carried further forward and back. I have had the C posts out at the same time as the crossmember in order to repair them. See my vehicle thread (although this needs a catch- up post). Page 22  

Removing by removing the bolts is ok if it has removable brackets at the ends. I don’t know what the original item looked like, mine had brackets and so did the replacement but I have heard that the quickest way is to cut it in half. 

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A galvanised cross member should cause less electrolytic corrosion to the panel than a painted steel cross member,  hit its still worth taking pains to isolate the metals.  Plastic card like Ralph used, rubber sheet or even simple duct tape where the parts touch will do the job, and try to use plastic washers under the bolt heads, but otherwise use generous applications of waxoil on the bolt hole and back of the steel washer before fitting the bolts.

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