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1992 Range Rover Classic 3.9 EFI 2 Door - ABS Issues


Dickie_L_J_O

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Good afternoon,

 

I recently replaced the Accumulator on my 1992 RRC 2 Door and bled the entire system whilst trying to solve a non-functioning ABS system. After the replacement, the pump fired up and switched off in the prescribed time, tipping up every few depressions and the brakes are sharp. 

 

I started digging when I found it impossible to to read codes from the Wabco ECU. It didn't take long to see the previous owner's garage had jumped the ABS dash light to the oil pressure light, clearly as a way of passing the MFK (local MOT). This was confusing as the actual pump looks shiny and new and was certainly replaced under the last chap's ownership. 

After reconnecting the wires I managed to retrieve code 2-3. This appear to be a nightmare code with nothing listed under the how-to guides and a lot of dead-end threads. 

The light is now on when driving and I cannot reset the code. I remove the jumper cable, as suggested, during the flash sequence and the code keeps flashing. When turning ignition off/on, I'm still left with code 2-3. Any idses?

I had a look at the connector going into the side of the ABS pump, which had been siliconed in, so played with at some point in time. I got this apart and swapped the wired as the colours matched better the other way around. I was praying for something simple like this. Mistake, this blew the 30A Maxi fuse on the side of the ABS ECU. I re-checked the codes and still get 2-3 and 2-3 only. 

 

Does anyone have any ideas how to better reset the codes, what code 2-3 really is, or any other advice?

 

 

Cheers,

 - Richard

 

 

 

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So I've been playing some more, I've replaced the relays and checked the fuses.

 

As I say, the pressure switch itsel looks brand new. If I unplug it I get the same code 2-3 and the pump doesn't work. If I unplug the pump, I get the same code 2-3 and the pump doesn't work. If I reattached everything then the pump works, fills the accumulator and tops up when it should. But I still have code 2-3. 

 

I try to reset by removing the jumper cable mid flash as advised, but the code cycle keeps flashing and repeating even with the jumper removed. When I re-check the code after switching off and on again, it's still there: 2-3.

 

Is there any other way to reset the ECU? What else could be wrong? Everything seems to be working fine, just the code and the ABS light on when driving. 

 

 

Cheers,

 - Richard 

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Not sure, to be honest - it's basically the same system, but there are variations - the classic came without traction control or with traction control on the rear axle only. P38 was similar to start with then later ones the traction control operated on both axles. I'd guess that if you get one that matches the features your Range Rover already has it'll work - but I don't know for certain.

If you try it, let us know what happens!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just read through this thread, a couple of things... Firstly forget using an ecu from a later model of RRC with TC,or any P38 one.(From 1999-2002 they were a smaller black unit with different plugs anyway) All the ones with TC will immediately log faults as they see open circuits for any of the  TC components. Secondly, have you got the full wiring diagram for your model year of car,if you have then I'd go through each wire and check each relay to make sure it is the right type,(Fixed a few with the wrong relay type fitted) and switching properly.

Lastly although you can never say never,those early type Wabco brake ecu's were about the most reliable ecu I've ever come across.I think I have about 5 on the shelf from breakers,never had any hope of selling them - unlike the 1999 on smaller black painted ones on P38's and Freelanders,they are frequent failures...

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  • 4 years later...

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