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Hi to one and all.

I bought 4 modular 16 x 8 rims, 2 of when mounted stick out by two inches or 50mm past the outer edge of the standard wheel arch and the other 2 of when mounted stick out by half an inch or 12.5mm.

I want to get another 2 that stick out by two inches but I don't know what to ask for with regard to offset.

Is there anyone out there who would have any info they could please enlighten me with.

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I had a similar issue when I bought two 7" Mangel 8-spokes for spare wheels to match those I had on the axles - they had a different offset, the spoked nave welded 30mm further out tot he outboard rim than the older wheels.  The outward surface of the fold of the nave, where it bends back in towards the axle to be welded to the rim, was flush with the face of the rim well (stepped section of the rim), while the old wheels has a 30mm step.  It shouldn't really matter having mixed rims like that front and rear, but you must make sure that you have the same spec rims on each end of the axle, especially the front, as it will cause steering pull, especially when braking.  Remember that if you have set the steering up for the wider spaced wheels, the narrow spaced wheels may hit the chassis or radius arms if used on the front.  You might be able to have the welds ground out and reweld the naves in an offset to match the other wheels.  You should be able to do this to either version, though I'd recommend moving the wider spaced wheels in to be road legal and to protect the paintwork better. 

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4 minutes ago, Chicken Drumstick said:

Pretty sure it'll be the same in N. Ireland, wheels sticking out of the arches are illegal and against Construction & Use Regulations.

But you can get extended arches. I got some, although I didn't fit them yet (2 yrs later!) as I don't want to drill the wings. Someone needs to invent extended arches that use the same fittings as standard.

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I hope you're not using it on the road, then - there are reasons for these rules, in this case not showering other cars with all the carp off your tyres and raising so much unconstrained spray in wet conditions that the vehicles behind you have drastically reduced visibility.  Sadly, a lot of drivers these days think the rules are irrelevant and make life very difficult, if not dangerous, for others.

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Thanks.

It will only go on the road when i have exteneded arches for sure which is also what i am hunting for.

Would like to get the figures for the offset timc 1967 thanks, I'll give the calculator thing ago.

The 4 wheels came very cheap with very little use i just couldn't resist them for a change but i now have 5 sets of wheels for 1 vehicle.  :o I,m shaking my head to.:wacko:

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18 hours ago, bushwhacker said:

Right I've taken a few measurements. On the face/nave I reckon its 129 mm to outside edge on the backside I reckon it's 74 mm anyone know what the offset is ? :blush:

You can work out ET pretty easily, you just need a basic understanding of how it works. ET it the distance from the centreline of the tyre to the naive plate where the nuts go.

The ET will be positive or negative, depending on if it's making the track wider or narrower.

Loads of websites that will let you visualise this.

Here are some examples to help you out:

47BC4B4A-5FE0-49A8-84A3-22DE8C46D7B9.png

 

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Hi, bushwhacker,

In choosing after market wheel rims it is good to be aware that offset/inset can have a major impact on your turning circle as you need to adjust the steering stops to avoid tyres rubbing against the bodywork or chassis.

A number of years ago I fitted after market wheels and 265/75/R16 tyres.  At the same time I also fitted wheel spacers, 35mm if I remember correctly.  These were fitted to allow me to improve the ridiculous turning circle of my 110 by adjusting the steering stop bolts.  As a consequence of these two mods - insurance company advised and no additional cost - my tyres extended about 2" beyond the body work. The first time I used the vehicle it was raining and I could see the cloud of spray behind me - far worse than before the mods - and the bodywork was well filthy by the time I returned home   I fitted +2" eyebrows front and rear and widened all the mudflaps by 2" as well, including extending the front mudflaps forward and up and attached them to the bottom of the new eyebrows.  These additional mods fixed both the excessive spray and the filthy bodywork issues.  I was legal again!

Getting back to the original mods, fitting the wider rims, tyres and wheel spacers were well worthwhile, although I revert to my standard 110 wheels and skinny tyres in winter.  The wider tyres float, rather than cut through and grip, in our snow.  So, it may be no bad thing that you have one vehicle and multiple sets of wheels!

Mike

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It really isn't worth it from an aesthetic point - it greatly increases fuel consumption, reduces speed and acceleration, makes aquaplaning far more frequent and at lower speed, reduces off road capability, increases wear on steering components and wheel bearings, makes the steering heavier and reduces steering lock, and looks thuggish.  If you are frequently driving on deep, soft sand or snow, then there is a technical requirement for wide tyres, but otherwise all the effects are negative.

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