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jumping jack

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Posts posted by jumping jack

  1. Thanks Western, but I'll still a bit lost.

    As far as I can see Econoseal are simple 1 in - 1 out style. Which leaves the question of connecting tow electrics and splitting the feed for tail lights etc between d/s and p/s.

    I know the simple answer is to solder a wire on but I don't want the potential weak point / water ingress.

  2. Hi

    I'm re-bulidng my old 110, got to the point of putting the rear loom in, the old is pretty shot from getting dragged out of the chassis plus has got a now surplus military section to it. So need to make a new one.

    What I need some help with is connectors; I'm looking for a more mordern equivalent to the lucas connectors.

    Found things like the super seal connectors but they're not much help if you want a 3 way connector (i.e 1 in 2 out)

    What sort of thing is used in the back of the td5's?

    Any help is greatly appreciated

    Also looking for multi section connector blocks, i.e 1 main block that can take multiple inputs like switches etc

    Thanks

  3. Back to the point, amps do need to be isolated from the chassis / common earth. by which I mean the amp body, not the earth terminal.

    I know you said it's mounted on a wood sheet (which won't be causing problems with overheating), but are the mounting screw touching the body work?

    That can and does cause problems with the amp cutting out randomly amount other problems.

  4. Going back to g-valves, every single one I have refurbished has had the same fault, rusty ball won't seal and rusty lump where spring used to be. It may as well not be there. In that state it's not a proportional valve its a connector.

    How do you refurb them?

    I don't want to pay the better part of £200 for a new one and have got an old one thats got a bit rusty.

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