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Posts posted by jumping jack
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Thanks Western, but I'll still a bit lost.
As far as I can see Econoseal are simple 1 in - 1 out style. Which leaves the question of connecting tow electrics and splitting the feed for tail lights etc between d/s and p/s.
I know the simple answer is to solder a wire on but I don't want the potential weak point / water ingress.
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Hi
I'm re-bulidng my old 110, got to the point of putting the rear loom in, the old is pretty shot from getting dragged out of the chassis plus has got a now surplus military section to it. So need to make a new one.
What I need some help with is connectors; I'm looking for a more mordern equivalent to the lucas connectors.
Found things like the super seal connectors but they're not much help if you want a 3 way connector (i.e 1 in 2 out)
What sort of thing is used in the back of the td5's?
Any help is greatly appreciated
Also looking for multi section connector blocks, i.e 1 main block that can take multiple inputs like switches etc
Thanks
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Back to the point, amps do need to be isolated from the chassis / common earth. by which I mean the amp body, not the earth terminal.
I know you said it's mounted on a wood sheet (which won't be causing problems with overheating), but are the mounting screw touching the body work?
That can and does cause problems with the amp cutting out randomly amount other problems.
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No, but this stuff can:
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Going back to g-valves, every single one I have refurbished has had the same fault, rusty ball won't seal and rusty lump where spring used to be. It may as well not be there. In that state it's not a proportional valve its a connector.
How do you refurb them?
I don't want to pay the better part of £200 for a new one and have got an old one thats got a bit rusty.
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Unless you have a pre '86 vehicle. Simple....
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I would recommend these over the standard replacements
http://www.paddockspares.com/mrc6980-deluxe-outer-seat-base.html
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Brilliant.
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lol, nevermind, but thanks for the thought.
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Sorry Stuck hadn't realised I was being ignorant, updated profile with location.
Thanks for the answers gents, didn't want to buy 1l and end up very short or 10l and very over stocked!
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How much T wash and etch primer do I need roughly to do a 110 chassis and bulkhead?
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no reason you couldnt fit stronger rams.....
A good point.
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Got all excited and hopeful that they would work with wheels on the bonnet,
IT WILL NOT cope with wheels on bonnets !
Understandable by still :-( boo,
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Withams http://www.mod-sales.com/auction/ have got a reconded lt85 for auction
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Yep, only difference as far as fitting goes is probably the arms on the disco are the thicker type, just swap them with it.
Overall easier than swapping two swivels.
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Could just swap the axle.
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tractors have to, normally fitted to top front of cab if a front hydraulic linkage or equipment is fitted, all the tractors I see daily have 2 reg plates.
Odd, have never seen a front plate on a tractor and we own 3.
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Tractors and bikes don't run a front plate, always wondered why car had to.
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Thanks guys, it was the 1st light infantry bit etc that I wasn't understanding.
Had the truck for getting on to 5 years just hadn't bothered getting its history.
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I might be wrong, but gps speedos don't take account of gradient. So not that usefully on slopes.
Modernising '85 rear wiring loom.
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Brilliant, thanks for the input.
Paul, you selling those through your ebay shop?