DF1
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Posts posted by DF1
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Finally got the alarm turned back on.
The immobiliser light on the dash stays on now all the time while the ignition is on.
Vehicle runs fine.
Is there something in nanocom I have done to turn on this light ?
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How have you tried selecting it just pushing the lever?
Does the lever move at all?
Try the LRE way
engine running
main gearbox in a fwd gear.
clutch in
foot brake applied.
Apply pressure to the transfer lever (in this case pushing it fwd)
As you do slowly lift the clutch a little at a time until the transfer lever moves and engages
as soon as the lever moves, clutch back in
check its engaged by lifting clutch slowly feeling for biting point
the whole time the engine should be running and the vehicle stationary.
By allowing the main gearbox to rotate independently of T box normally ensures selection.
This is the way I normally carry it out but the lever just wont move at even into neutrel from HI.
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The hi-lo gear lever wont move into low range.
The diff lock is working fine.
It is about six months since I used low range.
It's 2006my, thought it would be a bit soon for seized bits and pieces.
Does it look like i'll have to delve into the box ?
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Found a function on nanocom "plip learn"
Ran this and now the new remote opens and closes the central locking fine but the alarm doesnt seem to operate also the engine starts fine but the immobilizer light stays on even while running !!
What have I done wrong ?
Engine starts with both sets of keys now.
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I bought a second key fob just last week for my 2006my 110 td5 (the spare got water damaged).
Is there a way I can turn on the "learn mode" for the alarm/central locking system to tune it nto my new remote ?
Found a sequence on the net which involved holding down the alarm button on the bonnett and turning on-off the ignition but this didnt work.
I have a nanocom but dont see any facility for the learn mode on this either.
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I've used Air-Con gas bottles before now. I suspect they are similar.
Andy, before you go down the air route - I have a better option which I'm considering at the moment. Should be dead simple, easy to make, ideal for manual control and it keeps your original springs so if the whole thing fails - it returns to being a regular coil-sprung LR.
Si
Sorry to rehash an old topic but what is the other option.
I just heard the other day of bags that can be placed inside the coil springs but
at a set pressure with no adjustment.
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Have been thinking for a while of buying an L322.
Loking at 1 at weekend, its an '03 with 68k miles.
I currently drive an 06 110 Defender commercial.
I realise they are totally different vehicles, but would like the change.
What should I look out for ?
Are my servicing costs going to be much greater than defender ?
Fuel consumption ?
Power ?
Reliability ?
Still at an early stage and wont be rushing into it.
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Also don't forget microlaunch utility to save altering the date each time you want to run microdat.
I know Steve A was having a spot of bother hosting the file at one time. I have it on my server if you need an alternate link to it.
Sorted, thanks for the help.
Just another question, what' microlaunch ?
I'm changing date at moment.
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Which file did you download? the .nrg one?
IIRC the disc image of microcat is several hundred mb.
either way, if it's a disc image, then you need a "disc image reading program", easily downloadable of the web, or if you've got roxio easy CD creator, it's on there as well.
you can then create a disc from them image file.
Sorry, 640mb.
I burnt it to CD using nero but still appears as nrg file.
Is this correct ?
Thought i shoud have a load of files now ?
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Have downloaded the 40mb, have a huge file on my pc and copied it to CD.
What next?
Do I need another programme to run this ?
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Bear in mind that even after you've cleared them they could still come back instantly, especially if the engine is not on.
What fault codes have you got, maybe we can help?
Getting the following faults:
10-01 air con fan drive open load LOGGED
10-03 tachometer open load LOGGED
10-04 gearbox/abs drive open load LOGGED
10-05 air con clutch open load LOGGED
14-01 aircon fan open load CURRENT
14-03 tachometer open load CURRENT
14-04 gearbox/abs drive open load CURRENT
14-05 air con clutch open load CURRENT
What puzzles me is that there is no air con on my jeep.
The gearbox has been replaced by main dealer.
I tachometer has been out too, went funny after couple thousand k's.
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I just got my nanocom a couple of weeks ago and while i can read the faults, when i try clearing them it doesnt seem to work.
What am i doing wrong ? Do i need to get unlock codes to use it fully ?
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They're called "nutserts" or "rivnuts", and like you say, are crimped in.
you can buy the proper tool to fit them, but if it's only a few (or 8, in the case of both front seats), then just eas easy to use an M8 bolt (as you'll be usinf M8 nutserts), a nut, couple of washers and 3 hands.
from LR they're part number AWR4731 :
But you might as well just to go to your local nut & bolt fastner place, for the price of all 8 from LR (90p & vat each!) you could buy a bag of them.
Here's an excellnt guide by Si of x-eng on how to fit them using the spanners & nut method
Thanks very much for that, was buggung me all day, would prefer to stay original.
The people on this site are just encyclopedias on information.
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Got a new seat base for my defender.
Problem is the fixing points for the seat are just holes.
In the old base the nuts were sort of crimped in place.
Anyone know if i can buy these nuts.
rang the landrover dealer i bought the box off and they say
that the nuts are not listed, but they dont come on the new base apparently
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On my SW i run my pressures at 30 front 36 rear fully laden.
mike
I've adjusted pressure to 32 on rear.
Makes a big difference.
Just a query, can i do any harmto tyres at this pressure ?
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Who makes this lead or did you have it made?
It's a bearmach product, funnily enough paddocks dont do it but i got it from another bearmach dealer.
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I have just got an extension lead for my ecu to move it from under the seat.
Just wondering if anyone has gone to the trouble of moving fuses,relays etc, from under the seat.
If so is it a mojor undertaking.
In other words a few pointers please.
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Can arb's be retro fitted ?
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As EdF was referring to my posts, I'll add the same comment again.
Be very careful putting softer springs on a Defender if it doesn't have anti roll bars and has shock absorbers on the soft side of damping, such as standard LR ones for example. IIRC EdF's Defender has front and rear arb's.Giving refernces to heavier RR's and Discoveries is not really relevant as both of these vehicles left the factory with arb's front and rear or ACE on Disco II. Not all Defenders have arb's as standard.
By the way I run standard LR springs, OME N73 shocks all round so it's me not advocating Heavy Duty springs.
Cheers
Steve
Just had a look, no anti-roll bars fitted.
Why on earth are they fitted to some and not others ?
Suppose that rules out lighter springs ?
Few bags of cement it is so !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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It probably wouldn't be wise for high speed road work (speed limits here are low) but I run my 110's tyres at about 22 front 25 rear most of the time ... largely because of comfort! I think you could safely drop them a bit from what you are using though, and a few psi out of the tyres makes a huge difference (as does the type of tyres fitted - some are much harder ride than others - what have you got?)
The tyres fitted are general grabbers, 235/80 x 16
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What tyre pressures are you running ? They make a big difference to 110's.
I just had a check and the front is at 30 psi and the back at around 45 psi.
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I have a '06 110 commercial.
I use it mainly for commuting to and from work.
Therefore off-road handling is not my primar concern.
I find the suspension very hard and have tried various different seats etc.
Just wondering if I could fit a set of lighter coil springs or something to soften the ride.
Getting to the stage where i am considering changing it but dont really want to.
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Thanks for the quick responses,
will have a look at the connections,
seems to be the general view.
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Hi folks,
Need a bit of guidance,
I have a 2006 TD5 defender 110 van.
The trouble is in the relays under the seat.
One of the yellow ones that is for the fuel pump
seems to be burning out. I'm on my third relay in 6 months.
The relay gets very hot to the point that the plug has gone brown at one of the terminals.
Any advice ?
New Key Fob Programming
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
This immobiliser light on is really bugging me , anyone any ideas?