jokeruk
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Posts posted by jokeruk
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1 hour ago, miketomcat said:
You could fit the old sprocket line it all up then remove it and fit the new one.
Mike
Hi Mike,
If I hadn't cleansed myself of all the dead parts at the recycling centre a couple of weeks ago I would absolutely do that
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Thanks for the picture and link - I will investigate tomorrow - and yes if you can kill off the dead links that would be great
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doh, not sure what went wrong with the pictures...
Let's try this
looks better to me - although I could see them previously.
I'm fairly sure that I have the gear the right way around but....
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.....much time later
Many things got in the way (getting married, new driveway, new job) of my project but I have made progress and am back on the job
I decided to get the block re-bored - as I was in there.
costs of course have gone up as I kept finding things I really needed to do, - and this list grows. It has not been helped by my original aim of keeping my defender on the road and so the change from a disco 200 tdi to a defender was supposed to be completed as far as possible until engine which brings me on to today's problem.
When I went to re-assemble the camshaft - I spotted that the keyway was cracked at the back, coupled with quite a bit of damage to the back of the cam sprocket, so new cam and sprocket ordered and fitted however, there is no dot/mark on the new cam sprocket!I have the crank at TDC with a lockpin in the flywheel, I have a lockpin in the FIP and no mark on the cam to align! I've dropped a pushrod in and can work out where the valve closure point is, but that does not feel particularly scientific - I was rather hoping that it would be cam sprocket key at 12:00 but very much doubt it is as simple as that! I have of course disposed of my old sprocket - as the pile of removed parts was getting unmanageable without keeping damaged u/s ones. So can anyone advise me of the best approach for setting the camshaft?
and.....given the FIP has been removed how confident can I be that I have the lockpin in the right place - the hole did not align particularly well and articles I've read suggest it should pull out freely.
Sorry I'm sure I should be able to work this out for myself - but feel a lack of confidence.
All advice as always welcome
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18 hours ago, western said:
Brit-car have this listed as Hylomar 2000 https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/408426/1175/sealant_hylomar_2000_sump_block seems to be the same as
Turner Engineering recommend & supply this sealant
https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/elring-dirko-sealant-sealing-compound-c2x20634602
for 200Tdi ladder frames & sump sealig, I used it & haven't had any problem.
Thanks once again Western! Quite a difference in price! I will order the Turner product today
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On 6/23/2020 at 4:12 PM, western said:
Yep STD = standard size, but before ordering new piston & ring sets measure the bores & find out if a re-bore is required, my engine had a dark area on part of the bores, a 020 oversize cleared it, Also check the pistons are good 3 of mine had a semicircular hairline crack just below the oil control ring.
Ok, measured everything, inspected the bores with a bright light, can’t see any piston damage so have put an order together for Turners.
One annoyance is I chucked my cylinder head gasket away as part of last Sunday’s de-grease-athon clear-up. So no I have no idea how many dots......grrrrrr
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Hi folks,
Can anyone point me at a supplier for Hylomar 2000 for sealing sump to ladder on 200tdi.
I can find 50g on eBay, but looking at the amount I’ve cleaned of my engine I’m not convinced that is enough (but I’m happy to take guidance
) Hylomar list a 250g cartridge on their web site but I can’t find a stockist. I’m loathe to use an unrecommended alternative.
Young man in Halfords looked at me like I’d got two heads when I asked- it was a long shot, and I only went in as we were in the area....
Any thoughts?
regards
steve
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1 hour ago, western said:
Piston part number will depend on the size, if they are standard or oversize. basic block is the same as are internals.
It says STD on the piston so I'm assuming standard size
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2 hours ago, western said:
I bought majority of my parts from Turner Engineering, as they had everything in stock, the parcel was delivered quickly to.
Thanks Western - I was looking at their site as one of the options.
Of course, I now have the question of are the parts different between defender 200tdi and discovery tdi as the part numbers for pistons, mains and big ends are all discovery ones
ERR1387
ERR8841
ERC8839
Should I order disco parts or should they be the same?
I'm guessing I should get disco ones as it is a 200tdi disc engine
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I’m just collating a list of parts to buy and wondered what people’s views were on the suppliers of bearings/seals/gasket sets. I’ve read on the forum that going for genuine seals is a good idea so that is a given however, is there an accepted/recommended supplier for bearings and gaskets or rebuild sets- there are so many ‘specialists’ selling spares with prices for budget and OEM parts, it feels like a bit of a minefield. Or am I just overthinking it?
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I still dont thing the newer versions of gunk 'the pink one' are as good as the old brown
but the block, ladder and sump are cleaner
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Bit of a slow weekend, mainly cleaning down (and twice as much time clearing up the mess I made.
lifted the crank out, top bearings weren't so bad
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11 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Massive difference between a driver and a wrench. Chalk and cheese
never tried any air tools - so all to learn
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14 hours ago, western said:
Sounds like the strip down is going OK then, sorry to here a socket had lost its will to live in the process.
keep the thread updated, almost everyone on here loves a good engine rebuild post.
I have to admit it was an old socket from my first ever socket set purchased circa 1982 . Despite having other sets, I've tended to go away from the multi-point sockets (can't remember the proper name) and stick with either six sided or centre grip sockets.
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48 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
having just done the shells on mine - first time in the life of the engine, the bottom ones had wear, the tops very little. But the tops take more time to change
Did you regrind the crank Nonimouse?
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Rushed out to try new socket - working from home lays out way to many temptations, although started at 7.30 to get ahead.
I've taken the Main caps off - not terrible although as I mentioned previously I suspect oil has been left to fester rather than regular changes
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You can see the big end wear on the left shell - its pretty much the same on all 4
But even the "unworn" I use the term loosely looks pretty manky
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2 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
There is an re-branded version of that impact gun available on eBay. It's identical. Cost me about 40 quid. My mate has the makita. we often swap batteries! Fantastic tool
I recon the wear pattern on your shells is due to someone not being bothered to do the top shells
hmmm interesting thought on the shell wear. new socket has just arrived so we will see what the mains are like
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2 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Use the turner engineering web site to check pulley part numbers, compare the disco with the defender numbers and you'll know for sure.
A battery impact wrench is very useful in undoing crank bolts when out of the vehicle.
Beg, borrow, buy one of you can.
Obvs use impact sockets.
Here's one, I've no experience with modern Makita stuff, but their old school was excellent.
If you are on a battery system already, then might be better stick with what you got.
Thanks Gazzar, - I have a battery impact driver - I've found it to be of limited use so far, my expectations were high but everytime I've had a really stuck bolt it seems not to cope.
I've just got a compressor so I'm thinking some air tools could be the way to go - but again I've had so many warnings that impact tools should be last resort as they can damage nuts/bolts, may depend on socket quality
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59 minutes ago, western said:
You cannot undo the crank main & big end bolts with engine fitted as the ladder frame above the sump prevents access,
I rebuilt my Defender spec 200Tdi 2 years ago, my thread is
it may help.
Thanks Western, yes I have the ladder and pretty much everything off- I’ve read through your thread a few times for inspiration! The mains were so tight my multi-point socket snapped. Hopefully a new one arriving tomorrow.
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31 minutes ago, Tetsu0san said:
Due to the timing chest being different between Discover and defender the timing belt and all that is also different. Not sure what is still available regarding all the gear but I bet you can find pulleys and belts if you look hard enough.
I watch a channel on YouTube of a bloke in Canada (here) who does a lot of Land Rover stuff. A while ago he was pulling apart injection pumps and mentioned that the pump timing is different between a Defender and a Discovery pump, although either can (and have) been run in either and work fine. I bet there are people who have seen differences between the two but personally I haven't. I don't think it's really a concern to be honest.
I can see there is quite a bit of stuff - he seems pretty competent! Apparently the FIP timing can be adjusted (which I *believe* is the main difference although the disco pumps are dual stage)
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20 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:
FIP pump brackets are different between the two, as is the power steering pump and bracket and alternator bracket.
The injector pipes are different.
Crank v belt and alternator v belt bullies are the same.
Discovery timing chest has an extra idler wheel to the defender. I would expect t the timing gears to be the same but id want compare them back to back before I use them.
Injector pump is more or less the same.
HTH
Mo
Thanks Mo, I've ordered new injector pipes - I will look around for the brackets, the person I got the turbo and manifold from has more parts I can hopefully get
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13 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:
A 6'6" extension bar, trying to keep your distance? 😂
Mo
do you know I had completely failed to make the association! what am I like?
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Interestingly the big ends were all worn through fairly uniformly on the top shell but not the bottom is this normal? Although looking at the wear/pitting I suspect the oil changes were not regular
I'm going to be going through a measurement process on the crank to see whether a regrind is required - it seems a shame not to do it, but there is not a local place that does that sort of work so I only want to do it if it is necessary (I have the angel and devil on opposite shoulders trying to give advice) Can't upload a pic as I seem to have hit a limit of 20mb I will see if I can make the others smaller
) Hylomar list a 250g cartridge on their web site but I can’t find a stockist. I’m loathe to use an unrecommended alternative.
200tdi Discovery to Defender
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
OK, went out this morning and took some more pics, I may be able to convince myself that what I previously took for a scratch/scuff may be a deliberate dot - based on the helpful picture posted by Western! However, obvious it is not, and it is only by being able to see the woodruff keyway that I can work it out.