loiner1965
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Posts posted by loiner1965
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Thanks for these advices, the flattening agent is probably the easy way to go. Maybe together with a slight adjustment to the paint color... Sanding down a glossy finish is an alternatie, will something like steel wool be fine enough (wet)?
Cheers
Marco
the finest pads i use at work are 3000 or 4000 grade....steel wool is a no no ,
i also use scotchbrite so its a case of suck and see really
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OK this might sound funny but as I do have an old Series 2 which I prefer to paint into the original pastel green but with somekind of satin (not glossy) finish. Preferable also slightly sun faded. The idea is to match the old galvanised bits with a matching 'old' paint job. Any ideas how to achieve this? Or better has somebody been doing this before?
Cheers
Marco
(as we have no real sun shine this side a natural transformation of the paint will take way to long!)
MY LANDY IS A PASTEL COLOUR BUT GLOSS .THE ONLY WAY YOU WILL ACHIEVE A SATIN FINISH IS TO PUT SOME MATTING AGENT IN THE COLOUR YOU ARE USING....TO ME THIS IS EASY AS I PAINT CARS FOR A LIVING. IF YOU ARE USING CELLULOSE YOU COULD TRY USING A VERY FAST THINNER AS THIS CAN ACHIEVE A MATT FINISH BUT PERSONALLY I WOULD SPRAY IT GLOSS THEN CAREFULLY FLAT DOWN USING VERY FINE WET AND DRY.
IF YOU NEED MORE ADVICE OR 2000 GRADE PAPER THEN GET IN TOUCH I WILL SEND SOME TO YOU
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using deestones x tracs at minute and no problems at all just the normal tyre noise....these are great if i take it off road which is once a flood et so looking for a nice road tyre to put on a spare set of wheels etc.....what are the best....avon rangemasters or anything else please
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Ah nice truck and another BBS member
cheers mate......did you saw it when i first got it off narrowboat
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As long as the reg no. on the DVLA site matches the description of the vehicle you should be OK.
The VIN should be on a plate fixed to the bulkhead near the red lever.
The 5 year gap could be because the vehicle is ex- military.
my 109 was made in 1984and regestered in 1997 as an import lol....its an ex military one
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Amazing difference there, you did an excellent job doing it. What is that spattered coating that was on it originally?
Les.
its an ex army series inported back into the uk in 1997 and what you see is the remains of the camo paint after the previous owner paint strippered it then used a sanding discs on a drill....he really did ruin it as i had to strip completely back to bare metal then build it all back up....drives ok but very bumpy unless on smooth roads..not sure on the mpg yet but i reckon mid 20s to 30.....i can keep 60 up on motorways no problem.......next job is to kit out the back with carpets and bench seats but need to put new tub seals on to stop draughts
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Smart truck B)
sorry for the little picture but i tried and tried to host pics on here and its alot different to other forums i go on and i picked the wrong pic doh....its very tidy now and not one oil leak either. even manage 60mpfh on the motorway too
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not just you Les, it dosen't work for me either...
sorry lads will try again later......i put the pics on another forum the way i tried here but for some reason this site is different lol.....
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http://img361.imageshack.us/my.php?i...100............before pic
after............http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?i...img1683pg3.jpg
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Drop a length of bar &c in the channel in front of the sliding part so that it stops the window sliding forward.
so simple but effective,,,,cheers mate
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need to secure the windows better than the original slide up swtch.....any ideas
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They're a pain to get the remainder out when they snap off. For the first one I had enough thread sticking out to repeatedly belt it with a hammer so it burred over then I used the nut to back it out. The second one was much worse and didn't leave much thread at all, so I took the nut off and cleaned up one side with the grinder and popped it back on, then filled the middle with weld to join it to the thread, then I was able to back it out.
It's a petrol is it? I've no idea what the top speed on the petrol is, but it will be much quieter!
yes its a petrol version and i am not sure how bad the screw broke as my mate did it when i was doing other jobs etc...mot now due till may next year so plenty of time yet...the brakes needs adjusting and the master cylinder leaks abit but no loss of braking as such but thats being done tomorrow as well as an engine service.hopefully she be better when i get her back
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I also only get 55mph out of my 2 1/4 (SWB) but I was in a 109 2 1/4 last week which did 65mph on the speedo (62mph on the GPS).
Your tyres will be an MOT fail like that (mine failed a few weeks ago!) Easy fix though, just wind out the steering stops. Both mine snapped off so it's worth having a couple spare, only cost pennies but they're a strange thread
one of mine has snapped too as we opened them up abit too...then i put on new tyres of the same make doh.
she will go faster but i didnt see the point in pushing it lol. my mechanical friend will service her and adjust the brakes too. even the zenith carb seems to work ok even if the tickover seems a tad high,
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finally driven her on the road since i repainted etc.....all new deestone tyres which can catch the leafs if i give her full lock but seem ok on the road so far, steering needs adjusting as they is too much play but already use to it now.
top speed is 55mph but more to come but i think thats a sensible speed but more happier at 40mph..all in all quite enjoyable expierience since i last drove a landy 25 years ago.
only need to service her and try and sort the noise out which is not too bad but i can improve on it
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repainted all the wheels on my series 3 and i have 3 brand new deestones xtra track tyres and 3 x 3/4 worn michelin xtrac etc....untill funds build up i will put a deestone on for no but not sure where to uy them from in west yorkshire.....any help please
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well done mate......now you know the principles you will get better and more confident........
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ahhh les you mean solvent hi build like ici 777 or 888 primer.i was thinking 2 pack hi build. celly is great for diy men who like to tinkle on a weekend on their beloved motors......nothing wrong in getting your hands dirty etc.
its cheap and not too hazardous compared to 2 pack but very very flammable so be careful. even spirit wipe will ignite if you get a static spark rare but i seen it happen.....if anyone needs advice on painting then please get in touch then i will advise etc
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I always use Celly, and that's what I used in the pictures above. I used 40% thinners and 50psi on the gun. It was all done with a cheapo MachineMart gun though. I don't often do spraying, so didn't want to fork out on fancy spray gear that would only get very occasional use. To be honest I use the 'put it on really thick and then spend ages polishing it to get a good finish'. I made a right pigs ear of the bonnet - it was like the skin of an orange/lemon when it was dry and I ended-up stripping it all back off and doing it again, because there was no way it was ever going to look half decent.
Prepped -
Etch-
Hi-build -
Oh bugger - back to the beginning
Les
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quick lesson in celly......mix 50/50 with top quality thinner such as 222 or 804 for solid colours.
mix 75/25 for metallics.....firt number is thinner and this is approximate ratio
hold gun around 6 inches from panel or as a rule place your outstretched hand to the panel and its the distance between little finger and thumb with spread apart.....overlap each pass by 50% to ensure even coverage and trigger off when you reach the end of panel....gun pressure be around 45 to 55 lbs psi at the gun..always use the best gun you can get.....devilbiss etc....screw volume out to show around 2 threads and fully open the spreader valve then turn in slightly...make sure the gun pattern is correct...your spraying is dry mate but that expected and you left scratches in the panel prior to painting lol....ensure you do not arc your arm when spraying keep it constantly with the panel....easy innit lol
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http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/7058/landzx4.jpg
this is my 109...previous owner attacked it with nitromors then used an electric drill with sander attachment to grind away the paint....it was a sight for sore eyes trust me......
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been a professional spray painter for 30 years and the worse paint you can use is cellulose and synthetic. celly is mostly solvent which as les says can cause reaction if overcoated years later as solvent tend to search out weak areas etc....synthetic is awful to use as one mistake..ie runs then its the full panel recoated again as its not a blending paint. recoating it is tricky too as it needs to be fully cured then flatted then left a day or so as the paint needs to breathe...painters term.
i started off on celly synthetic...then belcryl.....then acrylic with rolls royces...tpa on jags.....early 80s was the 2 pack era which wasnt that good....moved to waterborne mid 90s.....i use waterborne constantly now and hi solids 2 pack....hi build primer is good as hardly any solvent.....if you derivit your landy then use a air riveter to put new ones in then no damage
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why didnt they make both sets of bolts the same size.....am i missing some thing why the lower bolts are m10 instead of m16
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Thanks for that Les, will give it a go and see how it comes up.
Chris
be careful as most diy painters tend not to put enough paint on or get it so dry that flat and polishing is a no no...easier to have taken rivets out then put new on after.....if you flat and polish then use 1200 or 1500 as les said and compound/tut back up with a buffer....i use fast cut and machine polish but i done painting for the last 30 years...if you need more advice then pm me......always glad to help out if i can
leaf springs
in Series Forum
Posted
looking on ebay and found a pair of springs of a series 2a which are softer on the ride than my series 3 109 but not sure if they will fit.....they are 42.5 inches between the eyes if that will help