J.A.G_100
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Posts posted by J.A.G_100
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Hi Guys,
So I changed all my side lights (except reverse light) to LED and ever since the little green dash trailer light is always on, regardless of lights on or off, permanently on.
Do I just need to change the Relay? I had to swap the relay and use the one the LED kit came with to make the indicators flash correctly as the indicator flashed super quick with the original Relay in.
Any help would be great!
Ive had this for about 2 years now but never bothered to sort as I never towed with the 110, however Ive just bought a trailer and want to get it sorted!
Cheers in advance.
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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:
Good end to the story, did wonder where you had gone to be honest, hoped you hadn't binned it at 50mph
Glad to see you back!
It can be the simple things.... can't it
Simple things: So often is, So often overlooked!
You'll never be rid of me now Bowie69, My 110 is already an heirloom and will remain with me until Im dead! Which unfortunately means I'll be on this forum for the foreseeable!
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Update,
After all the above........turned out it was the joint on the steering shaft! Not the wheels Bowie69 (although I wanted to change to black anyway)
Changed the part pictured and all was well! Annoyingly this had been checked but the play was so slight I'm not sure anyone would have spotted it!
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On 17/08/2017 at 0:11 PM, Roverdrive said:
Here you go, this is how mine sits.
I can confirm mine sits in the same way as yours Roverdrive, and does press on the pedals when locked (thought that was design intent?).
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I have a 50" LED bar above my windscreen that has a combination spread (spread/spot/spread) and this doesn't reflect or bounce off my bonnet......
You can get e marked driving LED's, try Wilderness lighting, great products, unlike the cheap LED's these days these CREE's are A grade and the bar itself doesn't weigh a tonne, which most the cheap fleabay options do and isn't often considered.
Hope this helps. Post some pics once you've made your decision and fitted.
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16 hours ago, marktdi said:
Very happy with the tent it has performed faultless including a huge storm at durness
Great news! This is mine being tested for the first time in the Garden!
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On 23/05/2016 at 10:13 AM, marktdi said:
An update on progres . There was a problem with delivery at direct 4X4s end . The Currier left it behind . So they refunded all the postage cost and sent it out for Saturday am delivery for free . It came Saturday morning at 9am and I am very happy with it . The proof will be in the pudding as they say but the quality seems very good
How have you got on with the tent from direct 4x4?
we have just bought the 4 man tent, looks and feels good. Terrible manual, left to do a lot of guess work!
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I,ve had a Webasto heater in now for about five years and is the best mod on the Landrover ever. I t is really easy to install, and even better if you get a cheap remote from ebay, to switch on from inside the house. Much better than driving around waiting for the engine to heat up, burns only 0.23 litre on full power, your engine should be heated up in 10mins, 20mins if really icy, can't beat that, get the Webasto. NOW!
Brian
Any Pics of this Brian?
Install and location of heater and remote etc?
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How much out were they?
Sounds likes you have found a good mechanic, they are tricky to come by...
Rem can't remember the figures for how out they were, what with all the knowledge he was throwing my way.....Yeah I think I have found a good Mechanic, Although like I said I will try to do most things myself but Im also aware some jobs will only be made worse if I try them alone so Its nice to have him to fall back on and teach me also!
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Really very surprised they are buckled! Hoe many mm out do you think? No idea how it happened, as you see from the tyres they were only used pretty lightly off road, and never exhibited the problem when I drove it.
I'd say pretty hard to buckle a rim, they are immensely strong, and given that I would check any new rims before fitting....
Hi Bowie69,
I am surprised also, but in fairness your right the tyres are in great nick and I didn't expect to get them on rims either so Im not too fussed, plus your a nice chap so I doubt you knew like you said!
No drama as I want some black rims anyway! plus the buckle wasn't the sole problem only added to the preload and pan hard rod!
Cheers
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So quick update guys....
I took removed the track rod ends off the wheels and could literally blow on the tyre (over exaggeration) and it would turn, so the preload needed looking at, which my mechanic sorted, tell me he had to remove 2 shims off each side.
That didn't fully sort the wobble but helped a great deal. We looked at the rest of the steering and he noticed the pan hard rod still had some play on the bushes, even though Id swapped them for new. The mechanic told me these can warp if bushes have been swapped not using a press or if the bushes have been swapped a couple of times (to be honest the chew I had getting the old out and new bushes in I wasn't surprised if the rod was a little out of shape). He swapped the pan hard rod for another he had off a vehicle he knew drove well and this then helped the now slight wobble even more.
So It looks like I need a new pan hard rod, at £40 with bushes isn't too bad....
So the pre load and the pan hard rod were the culprits BUT, even with the healthy pan hard rod fitted there was still a minor wobble.......Which was just my luck......So we looked at the rims....and we could see when spun the two at the front had a buckle, one more than the other but both noticeable. We thought about changing them round so the back wheels were on the front but, after looking at the back wheels we soon noticed the front wheel were the best of the lot.
We rebalanced the wheels and had to add a whopping 100grams of lead 1 of the front wheels. This has helped yet again so I think Im 96% fixed....
The truck now drives at any speed (before anything over 40mph caused the horrendous undriveable wobble) and Ive only noticed a tiny wobble after hitting a bump in the road.
Next on the list is a new set of rims, will get the same for now but in black (Attached Pic) at around £120 for the set and a new pan hard rod with bushes for about £40 all from Bearmach.
The mechanic worked through the truck with me and has passed on a great deal of knowledge which I am grateful for, he has been building and working on Landrovers for 30+ years, from bowlers to series landys so he really knows his stuff and it showed during this last day.
Quick question guys as you have been so helpful already, but how hard is it to buckle a rim? Specifically the ones I've pictured? I don't do any crazy off roading, just green laning and possible some light pay and play days in the future?
Cheers all
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i all am going to look at this landy tomorrow. Haven't had a defender before
anything I should check or look for?
Also is pricing about right? And lastly what are the 2.5 engines like?
Ok few updates
I have wanted landy for a while and have been offered this in a swap for a car I am selling. So I could either wait out a sale which will take ages (am selling a merc 500sl)
or take this.
owner seems honest enough, doesn't seem to know alot about them, but sent log book stating a reg date of 17/10/97
2.5 tdi
But think he thinks td5 means tdi 2.5
said no issues with rust bar the back door
and is in for MOT which it failed today so viewing has been pushed back till parts come.
He just said " The garage actually said today it was a 2.5 tdi which they class as a 300"
I saw this multi panelled Landy broken down on the M42 yesterday around 3:30PM....... having previously read this thread I hoped it wasn't you who was standing on the side of the motorway!
Says it all imo!
Hope you find a good example!
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I know that the stock solution is to tighten everything up and replace every worn part and eventually the problem goes away, more as a war of attrition than a scientific investigation :-)
It can only be rotation of wheels or rotation of prop though and even slight changes in wheel diameter would surely move this resonance to a different road speed?
I still have a little wobble on my 90 after fitting a D1 front axle - all new bushes bearings and swivels correctly set up. Interestingly the D1 has an anti vibration damper on the diff and removing that made the wobble better - I liked the recent video clip of the movement and I'm going to stick my camera under the 90 at some point as I reckon the diff nose is also moving up and down.
This was all the more frustrating as there was never a flicker of wobble on the very old 90 axle and there was so much slop in the swivel pins you could rock top and bottom 1/8" - no correct pre load there!
Well, there are reasons to balance your wheels properly but the dreaded steering wobble occurs at a much lower frequency than the vibration of an out-of-balance wheel, so that won't be the problem here. There's no mystery though. Start at the wheel bearings and work on through the system. Nothing in particular may seem bad but there is a resonance set up at around 50 m.p.h. which takes very little to trigger.
Guys again I appreciate it all, Ive spent a good day looking at everything but Ive got a fear that I'm missing some tiny tell tale sign due lack of experience on my behalf, hence why I have taken the decision to take it to a specialist to cast his eye and point me in the right direction.
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Yep I'd do both panhard and damper bush right away.
I'd be surprised if swivel was worn, this is a very low mileage truck, granted not impossible of course
I would do that panhard rod bush over the steering damper to be honest. (although both need doing and are pennies to do in the grand scheme of things)
Thanks Bowie and eb78, I have now changed both the damper and bushes and the panhard rod bushes both ends......
I know that I've mentioned it before, but in my experience (1990 - 110 Defender) the root cause was a swivel joint that didn't have the correct pre-load and was therefore too free to move. You can change what you like with all the other parts and new bushes, steering damper etc., will "hide" it for a while, but it will always come back.
Testing the swivel is not too difficult (although again in my experience you normally mess up the boot of the tie rod end in the process when you release them :-) and all you need is a spring balance to check it.
Cheers
Peter
Thanks Peter,
I think this is my next step but Ive been told and expect it is beyond my skill set at the moment, so I will take it to my local landy specialist and ask them to check the pre load and the swivel joint itself.
As above, I've now changed the steering damper and pan hard rod bushes and mainly BALANCED ALL THE WHEELS! (I know, I know I should have checked this straight away, but to be honest I just assumed they were balanced!) Balancing the wheels really helped obviously but now the wobble is less frequent and almost completely gone but sometimes I do experience the odd wobble now and then, still around the 50mph mark when I let off the throttle.
Ill let you know if the mechanic notices anything amiss with the swivel and preload, maybe the slightly larger tyres (gone from 7.50's to 235's) needs more preload or something, I'm out of my depth a little in this department so just wanting to get it sorted now before the issue worsens maybe.
Any more input you guys can give is much appreciated!
Cheers
Joel
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Good detective work there, Joel
Increase in shimmy is probably down to increase in weight of wheels over your old ones...
As above though, get the panhard bush changed first, the damper shouldn't really be used to mask a problem.... You can drive with them disconnected and suffer no shimmy on a good condition front end.
Oh and do it yourself! If you were closer I'd give you a hand
As above, the defender is one of the best vehicles to learn DIY maintenance skills. The tech archive on this forum has excellent how to guides...if you're stuck just ask.
If you give it to someone else to repair you'll never learn how to do it yourself.
1. Buy a new steering damper and fit it, that'll be cheaper than getting someone to change bushes, that's 1 nut and bolt and 1 nut.
2. Buy some genuine panhard rod bushes, remove the panhard rod, that's 2 nut and bolts. Take them to your local garage, ask them to press out the old and press in the new. Go home and Refit.
Simples.
I'm happy to answer and any questions along the way.
Mo
Nothing but more great advice and feedback!
Thanks again Bowie69!
So the LR specialist advised it was the Damper itself as he had it off and noticed its range of movement was shot, and the bush had too much play at the one end as I noted on the videos.
You'll all be glad to know Im going to be changing the front steering damper today as I've found a Britpart for dirt cheap, should last me a while although Id prefer to get LR parts but money is tight this month what with new tyres and paying for holiday!
Ill let you know how I get on, if this doesn't solve it I will start on the Panhard Rod next as the Swivel joint looked in good nick which mechanic confirmed also!
Cheers all yet again....ruddy dig this community!
:i-m_so_happy: :i-m_so_happy: -
Thanks all for your advice and comments....
I knew this was a common issue experienced by many but I didn't realise how many potential causes and/or solutions there was.
To be honest it has soon venture beyond my current skill set and although eventually I plan to be able to carry out repairs like this I have had to book it in with my local Land Rover specialist... Update to follow on what the official word is on the cause and what I had to pay to fix it, if anyone is interested.
Again thanks for your help guys!
Cheers
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Ahem!
Sorry Happyyounggit! Its a go pro hero 3 black
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Not really.
Steering arms off to see how slack it is.
Remove shims from top pin until some resistance.
Some oil will come out, so top up
Thanks Again Lewis, I'll have a look to see if this nut is tight as you said, fingers crossed it's just that! Wth my luck though it sounds to easy for it to be just that ha!
Thanks, is this a big job for a novice like myself?
Swivel preload too loose.
Top swivel king pin needs shimming tighter
Mine was always the panhard bushes causing it! ("Death-wobble" as it used to get progressively worse and would only go when you stopped)
Cheers
Peter
Hi all,
Thanks for your help.
I've had another look after all above comments and made a little video as I think it's a good way to show you guys.
I've also jacked up both front wheels and and checked for movement on the swivel and there is none whatsoever. The only thing that looks bad apart from the damper end bush is the Panhard rod bush at the track rod end? I think that is moving too much when the steering wheel is rocked side to side? Everything else seems tight and solid. Also the track rod ends feel solid and minimal movement when the steering is rocked?
Here is the second video, again I appreciate the help.... I think I will take it into my local garage if we get nowhere....
Cheers
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Yes
Thanks Again Lewis, I'll have a look to see if this nut is tight as you said, fingers crossed it's just that! Wth my luck though it sounds to easy for it to be just that ha!
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Swivel preload too loose.
Top swivel king pin needs shimming tighter
Thanks, is this a big job for a novice like myself?
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Drop arm looks suspiciously loose
Edit: check the large nut on the sector shaft which holds the drop arm on. It should be very tight
Thanks Lewis,
Do you mean this nut numbered 4 on this picture?
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Thanks Lewis,
Do you mean this nut numbered 4 on this attachment?
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Hi Guys,
So on the way to collect my new wheels and tyres from Bowie69 (great guy by the way, love the tyres) I noticed a slight wobble on the motorway when I lifted off the throttle but it soon disappeared.
I noticed it on the journey home but again only slight and it soon went. I thought nothing of this as I put it down to the driving characteristics of the defender on the motorway.
After I had changed the wheels for the new tyres+alloys I took it for a test drive, when the speed reached 50mph I lifted off the throttle and immediately felt the wobble, only this time more severe.
It now happens every time I drive.
After a bit of research online I had a little check at the steering arms etc. and checked bushes as advised, however I am far from a mechanic and didn't know what was right or wrong if I'm honest. I noticed the one bush at the end of the steering damper was quite loose, the bit where it connects to the track rod end (or so I think)?
So I decided to video the steering mechanics whilst I drove.
If the knowledgable members of this forum would follow the link to the video Ive had to post on youtube to see if anyone can suggest anything that would be the cause.
Cheers for any help you guys can give.
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Thanks Guys....
Ultimately I think you might be right, the wheel lock, big and clunky and an arse to fit/remove as it is, probably does more visually than having a removable wheel when it comes to deterring a would be scumbag...
I think ill get a floor post fitted on my driveway anyhow......
And I'm also looking at these http://foundry4x4.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_72_1779&product_id=141
Does anyone have any experience with these? They appear to be a great device to deter a thief and more so, very quick and easy to deploy and remove!!
:i-m_so_happy: 
Trailer Light - 2004 TD5 110
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Ah that makes sense as the new relay has got an adjustable knob on top and I've just bought a trailer tonight so I'll go and try that out in the morning!
thanks