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Glenlivet

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Posts posted by Glenlivet

  1. Insa Turbo Rangers cost £50 each, nice tyres but a bugger to balance and cost around 40 miles per tankful in fuel consumption. Great in the slippy stuff  

     

    Be aware that a removed prop shaft will likely affect insurance as a modified vehicle. 

  2. In my experience (FL1 TD4), the engine/gearbox are solid, the peripherals, especially electrical, are pants. Central locking, windows/sunroof fail on most of these. My wiper linkage failed as well, along with prop shaft bearings. So far (125000 miles) the VCU and IRD are fine. Fuel consumption was around 32mpg but dropped when I fitted Insa Turbo a/t tyres. With the chunky tyres it will go most places, never had a problem when others were spinning wheels. 

     

    If if you get a good one you'll be ok. If you don't, almost everything that goes wrong costs £300! 

  3. You need a new window motor and a new door lock mechanism, mine was like this when I bought it and the faults are common. You save some money on labour by having both done at the same time. Expect all the windows and the sunroof to suffer the same problem!

    • Like 1
  4. 12 hours ago, Dorsetfreelander said:

    Surely the critical clue here is the collapsing intake pipe (if that is what is happening), what evidence have you got suggesting the MAF sensor?

    In my case the intermittent slow/very slow throttle response. The turbo hose was replaced after it split, also all the vacuum pipes have been replaced along with the turbo solenoid (all connected to a different, now cured, problem). Mine's done 120k miles and goes well when responding to throttle. 

  5. Latest update. After full service with all filters changed including crankcase breather, no change. Diagnostics show a turbo fault, all the vacuum pipes changed, no change. Unplugged the MAF sensor, no change. Ok, it's a turbo fault.

    MOT due so plug the MAF sensor (still the original) back in for emissions test, lo and behold fault cured!!!

    I might yet change the MAF sensor but am loathe to bugger about with it in case it remembers about the turbo issue!!

  6. Hi

    I am on the market for a Freelander1, round about 2004. I am advised to look for a TD4 as the best option. I have seen a couple in a Landrover garage nearby for between £6000 and £7000. Does that seem a fair price? What are the main things I should be looking for or checking?

    Any advice would be greatfully accepted.

    Thanks

    Martin

    I bought my 02 TD4 auto with 103,000 miles for £1500 knowing it needed a few bits. Typically, new window motors and a driver's door lock as it didn't work on central locking. Problems with the VCU/IRD are well known but mine's been OK in this regard. Also had to replace prop shaft bearings. The sunroof doesn't work properly but not bothered as I never use them.

    Generally it's a decent car but all the peripherals are c**p. Leather interior, cd changer, engine and gearbox are nice. Would I buy another? Probably not but its not been a disaster.

    Oh, and it looks like a girl's car.......NOT butch in any way!

  7. I've had a similar experience with a loose connector on the fuel filter I think it was (mechanic hadn't clicked it fully home after doing a filter change), but that wasn't load-related just random wobble related. Behaviour was the same though, it just felt like the throttle pedal had been disconnected.

    I think I'll start with a full service with filter changes and see what happens. It's not a big problem but would rather it didn't do it!

  8. I've seen a few people mention this but never seen a definitive answer so here goes.

    Following hard acceleration or when slogging up a long hill in a low gear my 02 TD4 has a 5-10 second "breather", ie whilst it doesn't exactly slow down it stops responding to the throttle and stops working hard. It then picks up again and runs as normal. No warning lights on the dash or black smoke. I wondered about a partially blocked fuel filter. I've seen a similar fault on a RAV 4 diagnosed as svc sensors but don't know if this translates to other cars.

    The engine has done 107,000 miles and is otherwise spot on. No VCU problems and it's not gearbox related.

  9. Hello all on here its been a few years since I last posted on here so am just updating where I'm at. I've just bought a cheap well hopefully cheap 53 plate Maasai 3 door hard top. Needs a few bits and bobs doing to it one being the usual rear window open/close issue.

    It drives ok apart from a clonk on the rear when changing gear or accelerating hard again I think this is the rear diff suppport even though vendor said it was exhaust. What I would like to be pointed in right direction with is the central locking. It'll lock drivers side door no problem but wont unlock has anyone got a schematic drawing of the assembly or any ideas what it could be. Opens fine on the key and passenger side is fine.

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    Mine did this, new driver's door lock assembly. Doesn't change the key bit but a fiddley job. I was having the window motors changed at the same time so a saving on labour.
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