[Which transfer box]

What might sway you is the props are a different lengths, well the front one definately is.

Also, LT230's leak. All of them do. BW's don't as a rule and contrary to popular belief do fully lock up when needed so there is no loss of traction when compared to an LT230.

I would go BW personally.

+1

[Vibration Noise at speed]

Right, I have had a waggle about under the truck today and here's where I found some play...

The sort of flared bit (arrowed) that sticks out of the transfer box is where there is visible play when I waggle the prop. There is no play at either diff, the rear of the transfer box feels like it's got similar play at the output but I can't see because of the handbrake drum.

Dear David, a little side play there is normal. No more than maybe .050" though. You have to have a feel for it. Waggle it, then go to another rangie and waggle that one. They should both feel the same. Check the RAVE manual, as there is a method to change the seal with the case still in place. Cheers mate.

[range rover snorkel]

ROFL, naughty mate, you.

[what alternator]

hi i have a 3l diesel mazda-perkins engine i belive an md engineering conversion and the alternator has no take off for a rev counter, is there an alternator that will bolt on and have the connection. any advise welcome

Or can you add a wire for tach? http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/elec...lcoclassic.html or make a Vdub bosh werk? http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/elec...alternator.html

[how to "un-weld"]

I'll second the Makita vote - seems pricey to start compared to Netto specials, but if they still make them like the one I bought 18 years ago (looks the same), worth the extra.

I bought a £15 one from Focus to do a couple of jobs as I needed the 4.5" disk (my Makita is a 4") - its lasted all of 12 months and expired in a shower of its own sparks last weekend.

If Makita is a bit pricey, check out Maktec, quality is watered down about 25%, but they are still blue:

http://www.acetoolonline.com/MAKTEC-4-1-2-...p/mak-mt952.htm

Unless your in Oz:

http://www.makita.com.au/maktec/

Then they're still red

They are mostly Makita quality, but have some less critical parts more plasticy. Got a circular that runs nice and smooth and good quality, but the blade guard is plastic. The angle grinder has some differences in how things mount up, but both run smooth like a Makita. Grinder was less than just the bad stator on my Makita.

[Extended wheel arches for 33s?]

Young BT, LOVE the orange bobber!

Refuse shippment on the tyres and buy bigger, then use the 2 + 2 and cut the ruddy wings!

[Diff pegging]

I have my doubts, Ive run 4.7s on arbs, could trash them for fun, went to 3.5's and only had 2 failures with regard to R+P stripping.

2nd failure happened this weekend (along with a GKN shaft) , so the ARBs are out, and going to be pegged, but cant find any phosie bronze lying around, anythoughts on just leaving a bolt head with a thou or 2 clearance?

I figure, that for the few times it might touch, the oil in the diff will do its job?

Rog, for what's at risk, I would contact an industrial supplier and buy or order a softer, self lubricating material. Ultra machinable brass is self lubricating and $5.

Alloy 360 Free-Machining Brass Rectangle 1/4" Thick X 1" Wide X 6" Length

In stock at $4.55 Each

http://www.mcmaster.com/