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Posts posted by tomcat404
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Hi, for all LS engine conversions please contact a very good friend of mine on Facebook. 4x4fabrication Dave sheen lea.. He works wonders with all the parts needed
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Evening all,
just been looking at mike ibex build and came across a bit of kit ive been after for ages , picture below.
I need to bend 5mm x 100mm bars of steel at 45deg for inner link mounts.. Ive been after this tooling for ages and haved missed one set on ebay so far..
anybody have any ideas where i can get a set from please?
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So engine mounts I cut the td5 mounts off the plates that bolt to the chassis only to find the bolt holes didn't line up later. Then I cut the mounts from the disco chassis with the plan to weld them to the plates yeah right that would be easy wouldn't it the chassis rails on an ibex are about 30mm further apart so scratch that idea and fab them from scratch. I hung the engine in the right place then using the disco mounts I copied the shape only wider and thicker.
Originally they bolt to the chassis with five M8 bolts but my mounts cover one of these holes and I think they need to be bigger so I've opened them up to four M10's. I've also added a web running towards the rear bolts to stop the plate flexing now the middle bolt is no longer used. Finally I painted them ready to fit on Friday.
Mike
wow !!!! great build !! any ideas where i can get one of those press tools that you have mounted in the hydraulic press? i need to bend 5mm x 100mm bars for suspension mounts?
thanks
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Thats ace thank you.
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Do you mean valves in the cabin?
no the valves on the wheels
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Thread revival here but it fell off the radar for a while.
I hope that's of some use to you. The intended application is to sit on top of the centre axle and transmit the drive from one of the transfer outputs to the rearmost axle. Being fitted with portal axles means the driveline can be much lighter than a regular truck and it is a really small truck anyway. This type of yoke design is a carry over from post war American designs used then in the Warsaw pact countries and isn't as strong as the flange type yokes we use I believe but it handles about a 20:1 reduction from a 7.5 litre diesel so should be fine for anything in your current build.
Thanks buddy, i have just saved the images to my tablet for reference when im next down tne unit :-)
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Thanks for all the great info..... The valves look quite vulnerable on the suzuki?
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thanks buddy... just shows the progress on my truck ??
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Thanks Jamie, When you have 5 mins would you mind sharing some pictures of the system, just so i can understand what the dimensions etc? also did you ever get a chance to measure that centre propshaft bearing you send through ages ago?
thanks nathan
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Thanks gordon lol:-) i have enough parts around to make a racer soon enough so? Probably pop them back on the shelf!
Unless you want to make an offer on them?
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Thanks dan.... Not sure that a portal axled truck was made to go at the ultra 4 speeds!
Maybe ill pop these on the shelf and use on a simple racer in the future :-)
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Question?......
Do i really need a triple bypass in each corner of my truck with a 2.5" coilover too? Or is this just overkill?
The car will be for challenge events and will be running spider trax axles and portal ends and hydro bump stops.
Thanks
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Thanks sean,, from starting this thread i have bedn reading up on the air ride system. I would spec a larger comprssor and pump to account for the tyres @44"
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Strangely enough, I've given this a bit of thought - and a bit of machining too. I can't find my drawings though.
I too was worried about the potential failure of the system - and my thought was to make a special valve. A spool valve with the spool held centrally by two springs. The air supply connects to one end of the spool and the tyre to the other with a pair of bypasses, one end of each is normally blocked by the spool. The springs are set such that for the normal range of tyre pressures (say 10 to 30 psi), the bypasses stay blocked.
If you connect a high pressure to the inlet, it forces the spool towards the tyre side, allowing air to flow in to the tyre. If you connect low pressure (vacuum), the spool moves the other way, letting air out the tyre. With atmospheric pressure, the spool sits in the middle.
This would be used with just a compressor (Air Con pump) without a reservoir and use a valve to connect the four valves to either the inlet or outlet of the compressor.
A simpler option is simply to have a solenoid valve on each wheel - so the only failure points are your rotational coupling and pipe connecting to tyre valve. If any one of them fails, the solenoid valve prevents the others from deflating.
With this setup, you just use an adjustable (3 port, venting) regulator in the cab, supplying each solenoid valve through a manifold. You dial up the pressure you want, open the valves via a switch and wait. Once they are at the required pressure you close the valves again. I used this on one of my air suspension setups - and it worked pretty well, though it was fairly slow to change pressure. If it works on air bags, it will work on tyres!
Si
wow ... where do i start? you make that sound very very simple... yet very very complicated ! would you be able to share some more info if i send you a PM please Si?
thanks nathan
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Thanks for all your thoughts,
I have the machined portal boxes and the machined mog bolts and the swivel unions at the moment... but i would need to have spares and design a system?
What compressor is evrybody using ? i would need a suitable cylinder too i suppose?
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Morning.... WHat is the current view of CTIS ( CEntral tyre inflation system) I have the portal boxes and the machined bolts and swivel adapters etc.. Am i making the car even more complicated or does it hold a real edge for challenge events/ rock crawling?
I am still unsure how to control the air supply?
Thoughts please?
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thanks soren... as usual i am justv trying to think outside the box and easy to source spares!
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Evening
Odd question but does anybody know if a series steering drop arm will fit on a defender steering box?
Thanks in advance,
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Hi, I am thinking of fitting a new heavy duty clutch to the buggy after the last event it started slipping and smoking alittle lol
whats available and is it any good?
thanks
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Hi All,
I need a second alternator mount for my Td5... unfortunately i am in a real hurry for an event??? all the usual suppliers are out of stock ??? anybody have one lying around??
thanks nathan
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I have just bought a set of simex and they measure 35" but compared to my 35" maxxis creepy crawlers. ( Currently for sale in the sale ads !! ) they are almost an inch smaller?
Fedima normally measure 37 for a 35"
silverstone 35" measure 34"
My 40" maxxis measure 38"??? FFS
but my 44 " boggers measure 44"
hope that helps?
Let me know if your interested in the 35" maxxis?
thanks
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I'll contact them, but i guess which box it doesnt tick.
Anyone know someone good but cheaper, or could anyone here TIG a flange and a ring to the shaft if i supply it?
Best option is to try TIM and Andy at Milner offroad. They have made me some lovely things recently. TOP quality work and well priced!!!
thanks nathan
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As per the title really.
I need a few parts machining in lancaster, nothing major... beer token waiting?
thanks nathan
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i have a lHD inside chassis rail saginaw box from Howe steering. I will be mounting this on the outside of the rhd chassis rail and its matched to my hydraulic steering ?
Would pictures be helpfull?
nath
unimog disc conversion
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Any more on the thread ?