[300tdi conversion]

8 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Do you really, really want the 300TDI or something?

 

Just trying to work out what you are trying to achieve. 

The 300tdi is the only one I can build rebooted to 2.8 and with the long stroke crank so yes 😂 plus it’s quieter, more parts available etc...

[300tdi conversion]

Thanks all, I live in the uk, I think the plan will be as follows.

Pick up a 300tdi discovery with a rotten chassis. Pull the engine out and do a full rebuild at the engine rebuild company my dad owns (RE Arnett) get my still in warranty with Ashcroft transmissions stumpy gearbox changed to the correct nose cone and input shaft so I can throw on the bellhousing which is coming out of the discovery scrapper.

all I then have to do is source some engine mounts, gear and trans mounts, props, pipes, fan cowling and a new rad and inter cooler.

Then move the clutch slave over to the other side.

Anything else?

does anyone know if the gearbox top plate I have will fit? Will the 300tdi disco top plate fit or will I need a defender one of these too? 

[300tdi conversion]

10 hours ago, Red90 said:

Sell the stumpy box and get a rebuilt regular box if you really want to go the "stock 300TDI" route.  The gear box mounts and crossmember are different, placing the transfer case 2" more forward.  You then need new propshafts.  You also need a new gearbox tunnel and to modify the seatbox.  With this route, you are best to find a wrecked 300TDI era truck to get parts from.

Using a long bellhousing without moving the transfer case means the engine will not be in the stock location so you would need to custom make all the plumbing and fan cowling.

The easiest route is to rebuild the 200TDI.  Get a block from a wrecked Disco.  The blocks are the same as the Defender.

I kind of thought getting a wrecked truck would be the best option as you say, do you have any idea if I fitted the 300 to the stumpy gearbox would the engine be in the right place? 

[300tdi conversion]

Hi all,

First of all apologies if this is somewhere else but I have a slightly less common situation and I’m after all the answers in one place.

The back story is, I have a 1989 defender 110 which a previous owner has done a fantastic job converting it to a defender 200tdi, great! A few owners later and I have it, the lt77 gearbox was tired and had a broken layshaft. I swapped this out for a stumpy r380, great! 

The issue I currently have now is the engine block is cracked and leaking water, it’s not in an ideal position either so it can’t really be repaired.

What I want to do is get hold of a 300tdi, overhaul it and fit it as reconditioned. I believe one option is use the 200tdi flywheel and housing/engine back plate and use the existing stumpy gearbox. (I believe this means the engine sits further back) This would cause hose length problems at the front of the engine which I do not want.

This makes me then want to convert my gearbox to the longer bellhousing and input shaft which will bolt straight on to a 300tdi so everything is in the right place. My goal is for it to fit and look like a standard 300tdi that has always been there. Obviously the engine mounts will move, the questions I would like an answer to are;

Will the gearbox and transfer box be moved at all/will the mounts for these have to change or do they stay where they are?

If the above changes is it just a case of new mounts and swapping the propshafts for 300tdi props, also will having a Salisbury rear axle affect this?

Do I need to change the top plate on my gearbox to put the gearstick in the right place?

Or can I simply disregard the above, change the bell housing and input shaft, mount the engine further forward and everything like air pipes, water pipes, oil pipes and fan cowling fit?

I’m not work shy and have a workshop with all the tools and equipment for this, just need some advice from all of you out there with more experience and who knows their stuff 😂

Thanks in advance!

[Defender 110 brake problem]

On 03/04/2018 at 12:51 PM, Bowie69 said:

I suspect that when you did this, there was air in the system.

As others have said, 4 pots on the rear will not be given enough fluid, hence when you block one off, the pedal goes nice and firm.

4-pot calipers are a complete no-no on the back, dangerous to you and others if used on the road.

 

So why would have the exact same problem with drums? And even when adjusting just one? 

[Defender 110 brake problem]

Hi Mike,

Just to mention I had this problem with correctly adjusted drums, the front calipers on the back should still only recieve the same amount of braking pressure as before, whereas all that is happening is the same as when I had the drums. As a side note I have just tried a pair of disco rear calipers and I still have the same 🤔

[Defender 110 brake problem]

Hi all,

I have a rather complicated brake problem, All brake pipes were upgraded due to corrosion and M.O.T failure, since then I have not been able to get them to bleed properly. I could bleed the fronts (calipers and vented discs) but the drums at the back were an issue. I got rid of these and have now fitted a pair of solid discs and a pair of defender front 4pot calipers. When bled using an EZ bleed I get absolutely no pedal, the brakes only work when the pedal is nearly all the way down. If I clamp of the rear flexi the pedal comes all the way to the top, if I put a bleed nipple in the t piece on the back axle to isolate just one of the rear calipers the pedal comes all the way to the top too (it doesn’t matter which caliper I have tried isolating both it’s still same). Any ideas what this could be?