[Aberdeenshire paint/body shops...?]

2k? That's steep isn't it?

I'm gathering together bits and pieces before rechassising my 90 in the spring time at my mates place at New Deer.

When I get there I'm going to hand paint mine.

Col

[Aberdeenshire paint/body shops...?]

Almost time for my truck to get painted, has anyone had experience of any body shops up in the blustery far north of Aberdeenshire?

Cheers

Mav

Did you get anyone Chris? If I'm right in thinking your around Ellon somewhere, I may know someone quite local

Col

[Wipac Crystal Headlights]

Firstly, have you cleaned up all the bullet connector joints? They corrode quite badly, and its a good excercise in locating the wires. All the headlamp wiring (all four circuits) is blue and either pink, black orange or slate trace. These all come out behind the headlamps, one pair each side. Each of these needs a relay (four relays total) and each relay needs 60 / 12 = 5A of supply, so one 18A cable (use brown to stay with Landrover's colour scheme) each side will be plenty. The relays should be standard 30A items:

With the brown feed from the battery (via a 10A fuse please) going to 30, 87 to the headlamp, 86 connected to the original line from the dashboard and 85 connected to earth. Rather than going to the alternator (which means that these relays are battery live ALL THE TIME, = big fat sparks) I'd either fit a battery isolator or arrange them to feed via a fifth relay triggered by the ignition, which has the advantage that you can't accidentally leave the headlights on and the ign. off.

All in all, I think is a lot of arsing about when a bit of cleaning up will do quite a lot of good.

Thanks I'll measure some voltages first and have a clean up of some connectors and see where we are afer that

Cheers Col

[Wipac Crystal Headlights]

you need to rewire the headlights , fit 2 relays and then take a feed from the alternator to the relays , this then will give you same voltage at the headlights as the alternator puts out and will make the lights 3x as bright compared to original wiring etc .

i used to see a maximum 11v at my headlights with the standard spec landrover wiring , and after rewiring from the alternator output and using 2 relays, i now have 14-17v and decent brightness just using 55/65w bulbs .

you can switch the relays for dim or dip beam by using the original dip and main beam wires from just the passenger/alternator side of vehicle , ie using the 12v that the light switches produce , to energise the relays .

the drivers side original wiring is just cut off and insulated with tape or heatshrink tube and is no longer used, unless you fit spot lamps and want to activate relays for them from that side of vehicle .

I don't suppose anyones got a step by step guide to do this including wire colours etc.and what relays I need?

Cheers

Col

[1988 Defender 90 on Td5 chassis]

OK Thanks guys, new to this

Col

[1988 Defender 90 on Td5 chassis]

Engine and Radiator Mounts, I used one to rebuild my 300tdi last yr.

Do you mean you have to fabricate new mounts or can you source ready made ones from a TD5 or something else?

Cheers Col