[Best horn replacement]

Thank you Dave. I will try and get the right one this time. 

[Best horn replacement]

Hi, newbie here (although I have owned my defender for 16 years now).

I had a Controle Technique failure as the horn was not working. I looked, and the earth wire spade connector had corroded and broken.

I got a new horn as they did not seem unreasonably expensive:

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/horn-note-britpart-amr3467-yeb500060-p-6908.html  but I think this is a disco one as it has that funky 2-pin fitting.

can I just take off that plastic 2 pin jobby and wire my live and earth to those 2 terminals where the plastic bit is, or am I better served buying another one, but with the correct (spade) terminals ?

Thanks

[Defender heater resistor???]

Update:

I finished the rebuild of the heater box and slight modifications.

A new blower (LHD) and a new heater matrix were used ( I padded it out with camping mat as per other threads) and I got a 6ohm resistor in an ally heatsink like the one pictured earlier in the thread. I cut a bigger hole in the bulk head with a 125mm grinder, but I made my own foam insert as I just could not get the new one to fit. I also removed all the slidey ( clunky) switch gear and just put a simple 2 position rocker switch in for fast / slow.  So now its on hot when it is on, and I fixed the hi-lo flappy bit so its about 80% / 20%  for screen / feet.

On fast, it blasts the screen with hairdryer style hot air, but on low it is just slightly stronger than 6 cats farting. I checked the resistance of the old resistor and it was a 2ohm, which explains why my "low" speed is just that.

Still I am very happy with the outcome, so thank you for all the advice higher up on the thread.

Next mini-projects are:

• remove and clean / replace the sedimentor thingy as it looks untouched for 33 years
• Get the oil temp gauge working again ( originally it had an oil radiator), but this was replaced when it became a 200TDI.( I am thinking of getting one of those sump plug adaptors, and a new sensor).
• Get the little convoy light on the diff working
• rewire the diff lock light so it works again (it used to work, but I disconnected/broke it when I changed the punctured clutch fork & forgot about it and can't remember where it goes  )
• remove the hand throttle as it is not connected to anything
• do something with the volt meter under the red and black radio plugs, as it has never worked
• replace rear x-member

Given my general incompetence / ignorance, please humour my dumb-ass questions on other threads relating to some, all or any of the above.

Once again, thanks to all.

 

[Defender heater resistor???]

Hi mickeyw.

Thank you for the reply. As the motor does not turn freely, you are probably spot on. I have ordered a new LHD blower motor - RTC4201  (who knew they were different?). 

Thanks for confirming that if I run on full blast, then the resistor is not used.  

 

[Defender heater resistor???]

Hello, everybody.

New poster here.  I would also like some help with the heater blower resistor from an oldish ( 1987 ) heater box blower.

I am not necessarily looking for a new resistor, just advice at this point. ( it could be that my existing resistor is fine).

I will happily provide my resistor  to anyone who needs one if I can get my heater working without one.

My heater fuse started blowing in Feb 2019 ( I replaced it a couple of times ), but since then I have just removed it and not run the heater ( or the truck for that matter). 

I have stripped the heater box out ( It's a left hooker - I am in France). The matrix was full of gunk, and corroded, and the fan did not spin that freely, so I suspect the issue might well be the fan motor, and as the fuse blew when I went to use it, maybe the resistor is still good. 

The reason I think ( I know next to nothing btw..) that I might not need the existing resistor is that I am not worried about my heater running at different speeds, I am happy for it to run full tilt the whole time. Furthermore, my ex-mod 110 had had the switch screwed into the Max position (on the dash) since I bought it about 18 years ago, and it has never bothered me since this is all I have known. The noise is not an issue, as it is still hard to hear the blower over the symphony of other sounds:)

If there is a simple way of by-passing this, then I am happy to do this, and offer up my resistor, as I appreciate they are

A) Rare,

B) Expensive

and all I really want is for my blower to run full tilt the whole time.

Attached is a photo is the resistor I have.

Really appreciate your input and suggestions.

Many thanks