Nick 1
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Posts posted by Nick 1
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87 Landover 90.
So after removal and refurb of the Heater box , new thermostat and pipe work, the heater seems worse than before. I also replaced the temp sensor and the gauge Hardly gets above half way. Engine is a 200tdi...any tips on this would be appreciated.
Nick
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Well any 4x4 can fail whilst tackling that sort of hill...but at least with an analogue defender you can work out what the F...is going on.
That must have been scary!
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Using Hardura on the rear bulkhead, it was originally used in the footwells so looks ok to me
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That loo
12 hours ago, soutie said:I used some secure fix tape from proper job. https://www.properjob.biz/shop/Aluminium-Foil-Tape-M8861
That looks great!, ....I was too lazy to do more than the factory 😂
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2 hours ago, L19MUD said:
Hve you got a link to this?
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1
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When fitting it to the bulkhead I found a good way to cover the joints in the sound deadening, was to remove the silver reflective from some of the deadening and use spray adhesive to glue it over the joints.
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Used this stuff off ebay.....its similar to the original reflective deadening on the bulkhead.
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Im just on with these gaps on my 90.....I would have thought you could look underneath and check that the Tub is sat squarely on the 4 mounting points and that the rubber pads are still in place. Ive found its best to get all the panels on, but leave all the main mounting point loose, this way it becomes more obvious where the issue is.
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When I bought this 90....20 odd years ago, it was grey from new, but I didn't really like it and wanted a silver one so painted it. Now it's going back to grey although it's a lighter shade, it's Audi Nandogrey with some black in it to make it darker.
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Well Ive been busy on this job and have just just started to reasemble it, only thing that needed altering was the interior light. I am finding it a bit tricky to get the door gaps right as the bulkhead has been off and rebuilt, and I think I need to fit the front end to square it up...
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Done this to the truck cab, put some holes in it and bonded it as the glue on the sound deadening doesn't seem that strong.
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4 hours ago, bodumatau said:
nick those roof skins are very thin/flexible, if you have it apart why not put some heavy paint in there like a bin liner/stone chip/rubber paint/rhino liner or something, makes a big difference to the insulation making it both quieter and keeping out heat/cold in.
have also tried sticking bitumen/alu sheeting on there and it works great until it gets really hot and then might peel off, thats why a bin liner type paint is better.
That makes sense..
I have some Raptor truck bed liner over from a job so will give it a coat.
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Well I took my trailer and collected it .they had left the screen frame on as they didnt want to disturb the headlining, so will fit this as well.
Have now stripped it down to paint it, its in good condition will only some small dents in the roof skin. The head lining and trims are in very good order, so not much work required.
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Ok so I bought one and collecting today,
Only got my 90 to collect it in , will it fit in the back??
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20 hours ago, tychoS said:
Another important step in the sounddeadening process is to to find and plug each and every hole in the firewall.
Any missing grommet or unused bolthole between cabin and engineroom will transmit noise.
Meticulously find and plug each and every one of them.
Same for any rustholes in the footwells, get them welded up.
Good advice...my bulkhead is in quite good order but does need some work in the foot wells. Will have a look to see what holes to seal up.
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18 minutes ago, tychoS said:
I did my 90" like 15 years ago or so.
Under the bonnet I cleaned away all rust and applied rustproofing. Then I went to the local boat-shop and obtained some foam-engine-room-insulation, its thick, dense foam with aluminiumfoil on one side and self-adhesive on the other. Hard to set on fire as well, which is important for an engineroom. Cut to fit with a knife. Has been working fine since then.
The seatbox got the ExmoorTrim offering. A wellfitting Heavy-Duty lead-rubber overcoat for the seatbox, gearboxtunnel and floor. I've been very satisfied with the product.
These two together reduced the noise in the cabin significantly.
Was it this one you fitted?
https://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=EXT009-12bk
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Thanks all that's useful information
Whilst on with sound deadening, I want to do my lt77 seat base, the good stuff is quite pricey. But have seen some pretty new stuff from a puma? , Ok I know R380 ones leave a massive gap when fitted to lt77. But just wondered if the later puma type is closer? or no good.
Thanks
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So I've seen some insulation/sound deadening on eBay. It's sayes won't fit if you haven't got correct bonnet.
So does this mean it won't fit mine?
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so this all went to plan, and I now have a nice smooth ride with no clonks and bangs as before😀
like was pointed out I had to fit the 2013 panhard rod and mounting arm. I also used 2013 flexible hoses, which required changing the brake pipe unions to female .
thanks for the replys
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oh well I was wondering....x that off the list then
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Here is the diagram
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Is the closing panel visable on this example?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F352959982923
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16 hours ago, oneandtwo said:
Will fit straight on, nothing else is needed to fit it
Thanks
There are quite a few late ones for sale Inc headlining and trim.
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Can anyone tell me if the latest defender ie 2007 on, truck cab, will fit a early 90.
And are there some reinforcing pieces that need fitting?
Heater not very warm
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Some great advice here as per usual, I will take another look at it when time permits.
Nick