Luther
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Posts posted by Luther
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Also managed to get the inserts for the drawer cut…..
it’s like thunderbird 2 - will have different foam inserts depending what we are doing.
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Finally got to do the extended piece.
will be using it to give somewhere to sleep when camping.
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For anyone interested I have created an Insta for Luther -
would be interested in peoples thoughts on changes made ( and fully aware lots of people will be horrified about some of the changes).
https://www.instagram.com/p/CN-GPp0BBKj/?igshid=52t1z0jdwo3l
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Was going to add for the thread where the wood came from. As I said, I did cheat - which ended up saving a lot of time.
2 sets of oak bench slats from eBay. I went with the 120cm long but having built the back now I could just have got away with the 100cm - which also would have opened up a couple of other options on the type of wood.
Have been building the extension over the weekend to fit when seats folded forward - photos to follow if people are interested.
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18 hours ago, Filbee said:
Apologies to Luther that his thread has ended up in a debate about how to mount seats in the back of a Defender! It is interesting to hear some different views on what's acceptable and what's not though.
My rails are bolted through the floor using the correct tensile rated bolts and either genuine Unwin plates or washers that are acutely bigger than the size stated in the fitting guide where I couldn't use the plates. I think there are at least 16 bolts holding each length of rail to the floor. Some also pass through ribs the run under the floor, but not many.
The belts are built into the seats. Yes, that is a lot of leverage.
Looking at how the front seats and belts are mounted (see below - seat mountings are what looks like 4 rivnuts passing through 2, possibly 3 layers of steel sheet), I'm comfortable that my rear seats are fitted safely, but if anyone has any tangible evidence they aren't, I'll have a rethink.
No problem Filbee,
we are all here to learn and understand- and if the answer helps save some ones life then all the better.
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On 5/14/2021 at 5:42 AM, Troll Hunter said:
I agree with the above: a lovely piece of work. What are the blue rails in the photos? Sorry, but I just don't recognise them.
Mike
Mike,
just cargo tie down rails.
managed to find some with flat sides - which fitted better with the wood.
im sure could have found them slightly cheaper but service was good from these guys.
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On 5/14/2021 at 11:25 AM, Filbee said:
IMO it depends what you are intending to use them for.
I've fitted 3 Unwin rails like yours in the back of my 110 hardtop, and most if the time there are two minibus seats attached to them so I can get the kids in the back if we go off somewhere. I made damned sure I bolted them through the floor of the rear tub along the full length of the rails, using the correct spreader plates underneath where possible, and big old washers where there was room for the plates.
I wouldn't be so worried if I was just going to slot some cargo/tie-down rings in them to use to stop a few bulky item sliding about.
Just give some thought to how easy it would be for the rails and whatever the rails are attached to to separate from the vehicle structure 👍
Here's what I did with mine. Yours looks much nicer I have to say 😎😊
Thanks for the response and completely agree. If this was for seats it would be more important.
Think I will have to make sure that if I sell then the person buying will need to know that fact.
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I was going to varnish - but maybe you are right, oil might be the best option. Would also mean that a quick sand and re oil would bring in back to life.
the cargo tracks have 14 screws into the board underneath. Do you think I need to go further ? I could actually take bolts through the floor.
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Some further work.
all the wood cut, cargo rails installed. Just need to stick and screw.
(I am also going to make an insert for when the seats are folded forward.
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3 minutes ago, monkie said:
That looks great. Keep the pictures coming of your progress. I'm think of some thing along these lines myself.
Will do.
I have cheated a little. Found some diy oak benches on ebay. Means I don’t have to shape the wood much.
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And some further work
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So, this weekend I made a start on the wooden load area.
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I think multiple levels of coated wood would be worthwhile. I was contemplating using some vapour barrier of some kind - but in some ways more worried about water coming up and under.
the othe4 question is how to anchor it in. Will bolts into the arches be enough ?
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Yes, exactly. I thought that the drawer under will give me a wide, flat load area.
great point about using decent wood and coating it.
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Hi all,
newbie here and pretty recent 110 owner (it took me a while to pluck up the courage to actually buy one).
I’m in the process of renovating a relatively good Puma and am thinking of fitting a wooden floor to the rear cargo space.
To make life a little easier I was going to source some standard drawers (not yet at the stage of building them myself) and then installing a base across the entire floor. Using a plywood base, then adding some hard wearing slats over the top (ideally teak or something similar).
Is this something that others have done ? Any tips or ideas ?
Creating a wooden load space on a 110
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
And extension in place