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Trendkill110

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    2012 110 UTILITY H14W PRO SUPERWINCH QUERY

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted · Edited by Trendkill110

    Just taken delivery of a 2012 110 Utility. Oil has been topped up, only needed 1.5 litres or so. The tank is a fairly decent size located under the drivers seat.

    So, question is - How do I get it going? I've had a look underneath the truck and there is a pump on the LT230 that essential runs to a valve block under the passenger wing and there is also another pump located where the PAS box would be on a LHD vehicle. This pump has a small shaft going under the radiator grille to the winch.

    There are a couple of button switches on the dash. One says PTO RAM, the other LIFT / DRAG.20230426_143306.thumb.jpg.f93eaac623607518d731713cf8febe32.jpg

    There is a lever that pulls in and out located by the handbrake.20230426_143313.thumb.jpg.058bd08dbaa91e5e9c81ae03ccdee384.jpg

    A lever inside by passengers knee.20230426_143332.thumb.jpg.5cdf9db7a134b058a790c29341cd8d73.jpg

    Also controls on the passenger wing.20230426_143323.thumb.jpg.6d6e1c7c286023fb09c48e0faea02ff8.jpg

    20230426_143747.thumb.jpg.ac2c7b97e6ee6e34b67ce9cfca904261.jpg

    Start the vehicle. Put the handbrake on. Pull the lever by handbrake out. Flick the PTO RAM switch on the dashboard then I've tried it in Neutral on the Hi / Lo and engaging in 1st gear. Neither the lever by passengers knee nor the levers on the wing are operating the winch however they move freely. 

    Pretty sure I'm missing something simple!

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

    Thanks in advance 👍🏻😁

     

    New workshop - Which floor paint?

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    Cheers guys. Concrete was poured around 4 weeks ago and I won't be painting it for another 2 weeks.

    I've had a few units over the years, will 100% be painting it before I move in.

    Currently on with the toilet block, some wiring etc....

    Blanco - Do you have a link to the polyurethane you used?

    Landroveersforever - I've just seen this stuff in Screwfix catalogue, shall certainly keep it in mind.

    The plan is to wet the floor, sweep it off and allow to dry for a couple of days then I'll do the edges and 12" up the walls all round and use a couple of sweeping brushes to paint. Thoughts?

    Thanks again 

    2008 Spectre Build

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    8 hours ago, Jamie_grieve said:

    Aw, boo. 
    I really like the look of the spectre ones but if you're not going to invest in the suspension properly and money isn't an issue then I would have to ask if you were comfortable with a vanity project without any real substance? I know that sounds harsh but let me explain. In addition or to expand on what Simon says above which I agree with every word:

    Firstly if you don't allow for articulation, when you do go off road single wheel movements will be translated into the chassis with massive amounts of body roll and movement instead of the wheel moving and the energy being absorbed by the springs, antiroll bars and dampers, likewise handling on the road would be compromised too. A good well designed antiroll bar will be much stiffer, have longer arms and be able to absorb a lot more energy to release into the dampers than anything from a standard vehicle. All off road motorsports that have any pace at all about them use antiroll bars. If you're not building a rock crawler, trials or winch challenge vehicle then well set up antiroll bars will be on your shopping list. They definitely limit articulation but with a bit more speed the wheel will still move and follow the ground as the antiroll bar absorbs then releases energy like a spring.

    Secondly, the caster angle of the front axle and the pinion angle both need addressed. You can fling a 2" lift on without worrying about it and I know another 2" doesn't seem much but 4" is all of the droop travel from the standard setup used already. The castor 100% needs fixed if you're going to enjoy spirited driving with the LS fitted (I think fitting your LS to the 110 is a wonderful idea, the 90's too short to enjoy it unless you put longer rear arms on in my opinion). 

    Thirdly, the anti dive  / anti squat characteristics of the short radius and trailing arms is also not ideal. I would strongly suggest that you speak to someone about solutions to that too. In addition to the suggestions above, Gwyn Lewis may well have a solution, you posted a link from 4x4 fabrications, Dave could definitely sort you out or there's some young lads who used to frequent this forum called Blackbird industries or even some of the ultra4 or winch challenge guys that also might do a bit of bespoke work and genuinely know what they're talking about. My suggestion would be for longer caster corrected front arms, notch out and strengthen the bit of outrigger that fouls, and longer stronger lower arms on the rear maybe leaving the A frame alone but set the pinion to the new ride height and you won't have any vibrations from bad driveline angles trying to wreck everything.

    Fourthly, the damper locations and length. If you add 4" to the downward travel of the damper, the top also has to move up at least 4" to account for the new longer damper, that means you need a damper with a lot more stroke plus a bit more to allow for articulation. You also need someone to talk you through the effects of different setups and stiffnesses.

    Fifthly, Spring length and rate, if you use the standard turret locations then a spring that gives 4" more ride height will either be too stiff or become coil bound on articulation. This is why all the lads running 14" of travel are using coilovers and have the top mounts almost level with the wings. I think coilovers are worth you looking at. 

    Sixthly, bump stops, for a road or high speed biased car you'll want your bump stops sorted too, a couple of lumps of hard rubber aren't going to work for you. To assist the antiroll bars and as part of how the whole suspension works with longer travel you need a way to start to resist large bump movements. Hydraulic bump stops are easily available now and aren't difficult to fit.

    Seven, if you're running the 37' tyres then definitely some brake and axle upgrades!!

    I hope there's some food for thought there. Maybe air is an option that when you want the higher stance then you just lift it up and for high speed LS fun you drop it down without any drastic suspension mods at all? That would definitely be the easiest route I think. Mind your longer brake lines too and don't forget to have fun and enjoy the build!!

    All the above is really helpful - Thank you for taking the time to type it all up.

    Food for thought! I shall be making some phone calls / sending some emails this week to get a better grasp of things.

    Cheers dude 👍🏻

    • Like 2

    2008 110 XS DOUBLE CAB - WIPER QUESTION / ISSUE

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    4 hours ago, simonr said:

    I'd start at the switch - make sure the contacts are OK.

    If they appear OK, have a look at the wiper relay.

    There's a specific set of windings for fast and another for slow.  it's possible the fast set are fizzed - but much more likely the switch or relay.

    I would try feeding 12V as directly into the motor as you can - though the switch & relay will be easier to access - so I'd examine them first.

    Will take a look at this tomorrow - Cheers 👍🏻

    2008 Spectre Build

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    4 hours ago, simonr said:

    By coincidence, the wheelarch eyebrows on the Spectre 110's were made / supplied by Bowler.  I might have a tiny bit of inside knowledge ;)

    Also, it's perfectly possible to set up a vehicle to have decent handling with a 4" lift.  Maybe not with the kind of kits you see advertised though. 

    The simplest option is just to lower the shocks and put 4" packers under/over the springs - then add anti-roll bars to limit the sway.  Since I suspect you are lust looking for a lift, rather than longer travel / more articulation - that's the route I would take.  Adjust the stiffness of the front / rear anti roll to tune the amount of under / oversteer you feel comfortable with.  Some of the after market Jeep sway bars are adjustable and could be made to fit.

    Si

    Si - Already spoken to Bowler regarding the arches and they still supply them so waiting now on a price.

    With this build I'm not bothered about articulation so was thinking of a decent +2" lift with +2" packers under the springs and keeping the anti roll bars / extending the bump stops, brake lines, wide angle props and corrected radius and trailing arms.

    Out of curiosity with the above setup mentioned, do you have any suggestions? How would you be going about it if you were to take on a project with this desired outcome?

    Regards

    Bob 👍🏻

    110 DOUBLE CAB XS PUMA SEAT COVERS - WHAT DO YOU GUYS RECOMMEND?

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    On 9/1/2021 at 7:18 PM, Oakmaster said:

    I too have Melville & Moon covers but in black, I cant recommend them enough, but having said that they are pricey (they were a Christmas present from my Land-Rover loving boss) The other downside was that they took about 9 months to arrive from south Africa 

    They look great, have worn well, are comfortable, and have faded a bit (over 4 years) not sure if they protect the seats, never taken one off.

    they are a great snug fit.

     

    On 9/1/2021 at 8:09 AM, Badger110 said:

    I have Melville & Moon covers in olive green

    They look nice and certainly protect the seats

    They do look nice after having a quick google!

    2008 Spectre Build

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    1 hour ago, miketomcat said:

    Would it not make more sense to fit the engine and gearbox before the other mods, given that you'll probably need the wings off to fit the engine. Sounds like a good project though 

    Mike

    That'll be something for the winter months. Still need to source loads of bits for that conversion. I have a complete engine, Harrop H122 charger & tremec T56 manual box I removed from a VXR8 a year or two back...

    Only 90% on sticking it in the 110. Always fancied putting it in the 90 which is very much still in project state 😆

    2008 Spectre Build

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said:

    Have you done a price-up of the build?

    I would think a 4" lift kit will seriously compromise on-road handling but assume you don't really care too much about that. Good luck with it, won't be to everyone's taste but nothing ever is.

    I've done some rough costs but not knowing where to source some parts as of yet is making it more difficult.

    Plus, going down the LS2 route once I've got the above done. Got engine and box sat on a pallet from another project.

    Not massively worried about costs!

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