[Trigger wheel first tooth angle BTDC]

12 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

PM me and I'll get one sent out - although you probably need to be competent with a soldering iron to make the mods to fit it / undo what's already done to your board.

Yours is likely to have a setup like this inside (minus the burned components - this one was a repair!)

 

 

This is the VAG mod board, it does lift the CPU up by a few mm so you need to make sure it's fitted right before screwing the lid down

This is what mine looks like right now with the jimstim.

[Trigger wheel first tooth angle BTDC]

On 8/1/2023 at 1:16 AM, FridgeFreezer said:

These days I would not switch to EDIS as they are pretty old & hard to find now (Nige having bought almost all of them as far as I can tell!), I would switch to low-voltage triggered coil packs (Nige sells VAG coil packs as they're very common and available here) which have the ignition driver built in and only require a 5v pulse from the ECU to trigger them. They are best driven by a buffer chip though.

I make a mod board to achieve this with minimal wiring, I'm not sure what the P&P to the US would be these days but I'd be happy to stick one in the post to you.

I saw on another trend or whatever they're called VAG coil packs as a better alternative. On the MS2 hardware manual it shows a different circuit build for those but, if you have a board setup for that I would definitely purchase one. Not sure exactly how but, it can be achieved. 

Thank you,

James Kirk

[Trigger wheel first tooth angle BTDC]

37 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

You should probably know that direct coil drive is a fairly fussy system - you need to set up the VR sensor potentiometers inside the unit to get a good signal and the direct coil drive itself creates a lot of electrical noise in the ECU and can lead to resets.

Once it's working it's OK but getting it running can be a faff.

 

37 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

You should probably know that direct coil drive is a fairly fussy system - you need to set up the VR sensor potentiometers inside the unit to get a good signal and the direct coil drive itself creates a lot of electrical noise in the ECU and can lead to resets.

Once it's working it's OK but getting it running can be a faff.

This must be the reason for switching to the ford EDIS. I purchased and assembled the MS2 together before I found this forum. I will look into switching as the coil drivers were cheap and I would like to be more reliable, I would hate to have reset in the forest. Thanks for the information.

[Trigger wheel first tooth angle BTDC]

2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Find mwchanical tdc (either piston stop, dial gauge or whatever) mark it on your front pulley against a pointer you will likely have to make and get it running, and with a timing light see where it is. 

Set advance to 0 degrees in tunerstudio and make sure the mark on your front pulley is on zero and you have your timing set - physically and in your software. 

This is what I was thinking yesterday. Thanks for the advice.

[Trigger wheel first tooth angle BTDC]

5 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I had to google it - 1998 is right on the point where a Disco could be a D1 or D2 so presumably 3.5 or 3.9 or 4.0 and with or without a distributor.

If it helps this is my old setup, if only for illustration.

This is a D1 4.0 and I'm using the original coils and I wired in coil drivers on the MS2. I have it wired using the original CKP and reluctor ring, 35 and 1 missing tooth. Unfortunately, the ring is on the flywheel and unseeable without separating the engine and tranny. Attached is the information that I found on Shopkeypro that states the missing tooth is 20 degrees after TDC but, the MS2 didn't like it.

ckp.pdf

[Trigger wheel first tooth angle BTDC]

1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:

OK in that case it doesn't really matter where it is, but you do need to set your offset in the software. 

Well, you lost me as it doesn't really matter! How can I time it right if I don't know where the first tooth is? Do I base it off TDC of the first cylinder? Which I'm not sure how to do with electronic fuel injection.

When you state offset are you referring to the skip pulses?

James Kirk

[Trigger wheel first tooth angle BTDC]

8 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Edis or not? 

Not sure, what is EDIS? I removed all of the original wiring harness and switching to the MS2 and using the original trigger wheel and CKP sensor.

James Kirk

[Trigger wheel first tooth angle BTDC]

Hello,

I'm tuning a MS2 for a 98 Disco and I'm having issues with setting up the angle for the first tooth of the trigger wheel. I've read that the missing tooth is at 20 degrees after TDC and that would put the first tooth at 10 degrees after TDC. Tunerstudio doesn't like this number. Does anybody know what angle I should set it at?

Thank you and happy wheeling,

James Kirk

[1996 Disco Megasquirt alternator wiring diagram]

The first picture was from a few years back when I moved into my house, it is a little different. I have been designing/machining the parts for the independent suspension, transfer cases and planetary hubs that still aren't finished. The second picture is after I mocked up the front differential. It's been challenging and fun. I probably need to take more pictures as I complete steps.

[1996 Disco Megasquirt alternator wiring diagram]

3 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

No, the warning lamp does the excitation, just like any other vehicle alternator.

 

 

 

 

Thank you for the information.

James Kirk

[1996 Disco Megasquirt alternator wiring diagram]

1 hour ago, Escape said:

If the alternator were to pull 12V off the main, permanently live feed wire, the windings would always be powered and thus drain the battery. 😉 All alternators are however capable to self excite to some level, usually this requires higher revs but some are designed to start charging as soon as they turn, even without an additional input. As those are (still) the exception, I think the technology is either to expensive or not reliable enough (or both).

I've heard of one-wire alternators. Yes, you are correct at higher rpms excitation isn't necessary. Well at least it's not at the hydro-electric power plants that I work at, excitation is only needed at startup according to the electricians that work here. I'm more mechanical but, I'm learning electricity, it's shocking!

Thank you, Bowie69 wrote the exciting wire,

James Kirk

[1996 Disco Megasquirt alternator wiring diagram]

11 hours ago, Escape said:

Brown/yellow is for the warning lamp, goes to terminal D, white (or white green) is for the tacho, goes to terminal W.

Thank you. So, this is a one wire alternator with two additional outputs, no additional exciting needed to start the alternator it pulls 12volt off the main wire to initiate power generation.

James Kirk

[1996 Disco Megasquirt alternator wiring diagram]

22 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Usually W is for Winding which is the tacho feed on diesels, the big lug goes to the battery and the remaining small terminal goes to the warning light.

Pretty sure on my P38 V8 alternator there's just the big main terminal and the sense (warning light) terminal.

This alternator has three wires, the big lug went into the main breaker box and back to the battery, there is also a white and brown/yellow stripe. I figured one was to excite the alternator (12volt feed) and the other a signal. I'd hate to put power to the wrong terminal. Unfortunately, I lost my 99 Disco 1 in a divorce last year or I would just test for voltage on that one to find out. I don't know anyone with one either, these older Disco's aren't very popular across the pond. I think it is the lack of aftermarket parts here, jeep and toyota have the market cornered. But, neither of them, ride like a rover.

Thanks for the reply,

James Kirk

[1996 Disco Megasquirt alternator wiring diagram]

25 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

So know I'm wondering why you are posting in the MS forum about how to wire up an alt? Should just be totally standard, follow the vehicle wiring diagrams, if you need those then they are likely listed in the tech archive, or just Google them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I figured the MS guys had encountered this issue before and would be easily advisable. If you are keeping most of the original wiring this issue wouldn't occur. From the vehicle wiring diagrams that I have looked at, they just show what color wire goes where and not what they do, except for ground of course. I will look through the tech archive.

Thank you,

James Kirk

[1996 Disco Megasquirt alternator wiring diagram]

On 2/19/2022 at 2:18 PM, Bowie69 said:

Megasquirt has nothing to do with the alternator, leave it wired up as it is.

 

Yes, the MS2 has nothing to do with the alternator but, the engine isn't in a land rover anymore and I'm looking for a wiring diagram that shows which wire is the exciter and I'm assuming that the other wire is a signal wire. I'm building a completely new wiring harness for this tube framed mid-engine buggy with the lighter weight 4.0 assembly.

Thank you,

James Kirk

[1996 Disco Megasquirt alternator wiring diagram]

Hello all,

I'm looking for a wiring diagram for the alternator to work with a MS2 ECU. I'm not familiar with the operation of these alternator and I haven't found much information about them so I figured I would pry from the experts.

Thank you,

James Kirk