Paul C
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Posts posted by Paul C
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47 minutes ago, TSD said:
Every day a schoolday!
Never seen one of those, any idea for a part number?
YBE100540
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I think I replaced mine with 8mm countersunk Allen screws, the hex is much more reliable than a Phillips or pozi head.
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12 hours ago, TSD said:
Any chance a bit of the old speedo cable is stuck in the drive gear? I can't think why else it wouldn't fit, though I have found it a bit fiddly occasionally. As far as I've seen the speedo drive gears all have the same centre square.
The 300tdi disco had a transducer which has a much smaller square drive than the speedo cable, the gear has to be changed to fit a cable.
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I have been trying to obtain the brackets for the electrical connectors and fuse box for a 300tdi bulkhead, finally DDS have come back to me to say they will supply them, all ghe other companies either didn't reply or wouldn't supply.
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I put a block between the chassis rails and wedge it in to spread the rails slightly. If you have a Porta power then that would be ideal.
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The older ones were a full bucket, the later ones were a half bucket, supposedly able to swap the bulb without having to remove everything.
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I made supplementary looms for headlights, fog lights and horn, used fused relays and fused the main feed with the connection at the alternator, the relays are mounted behind the headlight support panel, the wiring is fully plugged in so can easily be removed to put it back to factory.
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On 2/23/2024 at 8:34 PM, Maverik said:
You've also got the option of 1.3... ashcroft do the this as a gearing option, I had half intended to do it on my manual 200tdi, as I think it would compliment it more than a 1.4 for all around "use".
But Auto's are a little different but worth considering.
I have fitted the 1.3 to mine with the 4.6 auto, as I found the 1.2 too high and the 1.4 a little low. I haven't had it on the road yet but had done plenty of kms with the other ratios before I made the decision. I am running 285/65/18 which are around 32"
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I have a 1.2 behind the R380 in my 300tdi but managed to get the 1.4 box with it when I purchased it, so will be refitting that but changing the R380 5th gear to the V8 discovery gears for higher overdrive 5th.
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The driven gear and its housing should come out of the transfer box reasonably easily by levering it up with a screwdriver in the groove just below the cable clip, if it hasn't seized in the transfer box.
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Is the end of the drive gear engaging on the new speedo cable, the cable may not be entering or it may have rounded off inside. With the cable fitted to the drive can you turn the other end?
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Factory fit is AMR4247 as you said, 100A, I replaced mine with the 120A one from the p38 RR AMR2938. Mine is Denso.
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The wiring diagram shows the headlamp flash feed is brown with a purple trace and fuse 3 in the engine bay fuse box, 30amps.
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20 hours ago, DefcoL said:
Good afternoon all.
I wish to buy a new full wiring loom for my defender 110 hardtop 1990. I have been looking for weeks on the web (and searched here) but cannot find a supplier of
full and complete looms. I am ordering a new bulkhead and intend to also work on the chassis once body is stripped and removed. So the right time to replace all wiring.
Can any one here let me know who makes/ sells them and if possible post up a link.
Thanks in advance.
Lawrence owner of Barny.
You do realize that a Defender doesn't have one full loom, it is made up of sections, the main loom being the bulkhead loom, then the chassis loom for the rear, the engine loom, and on some models separate front wing looms.
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-body-electrics/batteries-harnesses
You may find some places having old stock like thexmod.com or Hobson Brothers, I think they are Hobson industries now, otherwise Autosparks make just about any of them to suit. I have just fitted 300tdi looms to my early v8110, but had to make my own engine loom, the rest were from Autosparks, I got mine made to match my 300tdi so both my 110s have the same basic wiring.
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I have a new PRC8243 bulkhead loom that I bought but didnt use for my project, I am not sure if that is what yours is, but it is 200tdi.
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Unless you are planning on adding a couple of tonnes of weight in the back the gearbox is not likely to be a problem if used correctly. Axles and diffs are more likely to break first.
Unless you get a real great deal on a 4.6 then a 3.9 would surely be cheaper and would give you an impressive power boost. Even in the 110 it was like a different car. In standard form a discovery 3.9 car is heavier than a 110, a 90 much lighter still.
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You need a timing light to check the timing, and worth getting a gunson color tune, you can check the fueling and timing then.
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18 hours ago, Mediamab said:
Hey everyone. Another fun Saturday
So decided to take my LR 90 for a drive, just to see if it affects tapping noise (incidentally it may have done) but I have the below two issues…
Only when driving (idling on drive no issue) the engine suddenly drops power or totally looses it. When it lost all power it would start but immediately die. Did that a few times then suddenly it started and got me home luckily. Assuming this is either electrical or fuelling?!
When I got home I left it running for a couple of minutes. When I turned the engine off it stopped with a couple of slow cranks which I’ve never noticed before (is this normal?!). Then the coolant system started making a lot of funny noises, spat coolant out of the overflow on the header tank and sat there quite obviously boiling and took many minutes to stop. Interesting the first time I saw the temp gauge almost to the middle. (Usually sits at the bottom of the white line) it has Prestone coolant in it and I’d checked header and had plenty before I set off.
hit me with your words of wisdom that hopefully don’t make me cry ha I’ve never known coolant to boil!
Looses power then starts and dies.
Did you replace the fuel pump recently? Sounds like fuel starvation.
Turn the engine off and it stops with a couple of slow cranks. Do you mean it runs on as per detonation? That is caused by the engine being too hot, often because the mixture is too lean and the timing too advanced.
I would check the fuel pump and fuel system again. If you did replace the pump there could be contamination in the lines or carbs
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I am not sure what Discovery prices are like where you are, but usually it is the body that is stuffed long before the engine, here it is possible to pick up a good runner 3.9 disco for less than just an engine second hand. I scrapped 3x 3.9s, a few years ago and got the parts I wanted at no cost by the time I sold off the remains.
A 3.9 will make it run well, you can use your carbs and manifolds at it will still look the same.
Distributor doctor has all the parts for the dizzy or can sell you a new or rebuilt one. I got the vacuum advance on its own, I got it from one of the Landy suppliers but also used to be common on ebay.
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All the Rover v8s have the same basic engine, the block and heads are externally the same dimensions, you have to look for the small differences like cross bolts and head bolts to tell the difference if it doesn't have an engine number(my 3.9 has no numbers on the block) You can fit front covers and manifolds from early 3.5s even to a late 4.6 block and it will look the same.
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The engine I have just removed from my 110 is a serpentine 3.9 that I put a carb manifold and cd175s on. When I got it in a 96 discovery it was overheating. I found tin plate gaskets and loose head bolts and replaced those but still was heating, checked the timing and found the vacuum advance was knackered, replaced that and it has been fine ever since.
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My 1985 is the same as my 300tdi. I believe the td5 has different mounting.
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That is a one piece switch, no steering lock. PRC2734
Never seen one of those, any idea for a part number?
Oil Cooler Thread Size
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
18mm if it's the one I think you are looking for