Spooner
-
Posts
80 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Spooner
-
-
Hi,
Just got back after my 1999 TD5 90 'failed to proceed'.
Well it started.....moved 10 yards and then the glow plug/Engine lights started flashing and it stopped.
The ECU under the drivers seat is making a hell of noise when I try to start it ( like a wailing banshee) and the glow plug/engine lights are lit 'dimly'. The starter turns over, the lights come on the dash and the other electrics systems work. But it just won't fire.
UPDATE .......
I've been out and removed the ECU to clean the plugs/connector - they had a little oil on them from the loom (part in garage, must fit it) but nothing too much.
Still won't start after connecting it all up again. The noise is similiar to a 'screeching/clicking' sound. Also the part number on the unit is-
MSB101171
A0016
LD MAN4143
to the left of MSB101171 is something ended in '69' or '39'
This part number doesn't seem to tally with the correct ECU for a 1999 TD5 Defender either - see link below ......
I'm now going to change the Injector Harness first thing to see if the issue is as per the article...
cheers.
Well it's fixed.
Along with a fresh MOT today.
Happy Days :-)
Cheers
-
Hi,
Just got back after my 1999 TD5 90 'failed to proceed'.
Well it started.....moved 10 yards and then the glow plug/Engine lights started flashing and it stopped.
The ECU under the drivers seat is making a hell of noise when I try to start it ( like a wailing banshee) and the glow plug/engine lights are lit 'dimly'. The starter turns over, the lights come on the dash and the other electrics systems work. But it just won't fire.
UPDATE .......
I've been out and removed the ECU to clean the plugs/connector - they had a little oil on them from the loom (part in garage, must fit it) but nothing too much.
Still won't start after connecting it all up again. The noise is similiar to a 'screeching/clicking' sound. Also the part number on the unit is-
MSB101171
A0016
LD MAN4143
to the left of MSB101171 is something ended in '69' or '39'
This part number doesn't seem to tally with the correct ECU for a 1999 TD5 Defender either - see link below ......
I'm now going to change the Injector Harness first thing to see if the issue is as per the article...
cheers.
-
Well I went along with my mate and our 7 year old sons. Thoroughly enjoyable and spent a lot of time talking to the tour companies about a trip to Morocco. Stayed for about 4 hours and went around twice. Well laid out, friendly and on the money to get in - and to the trader shark who wouldn't knock £1.50 off a £6.50 Chinese made scratched toy Land Rover for my 3 year old (after we'd spent £20 on his stall)...I hope someone nicked it later on. Grumpy git. We found no problem with the toilets - clean and plenty of hand towels etc so looks like the organisers kept on top of the cleaning.Oh and a excellent cafe - great food.
-
I just bought one of these on ebay
and a set of nuts and bolts too.
Cheers- presume it was for the 90TD5 in your profile?
-
Having struggled to remove the bolts on front prop, can someone please tell me what 'prop tool' they would recommend to remove them. I'm thinking of the ones on DiffLock site or maybe fleabay?For my 1999 TD5 Defender.
cheers.
-
Battery died in my Defender this morning - went out and flat as a pancake. It's a Halfords '4 year guarantee' one which has the date of '09/08' on it. So off I trundle to local Halfords (after putting in a new battery from local indepentant). After a call to the manager is made by the girl on the till, he refuses to give me a refund... Have I missed something here..? He tested it with his green thing and proclaimed it 'dead'... well done mate.
It's a Halfords battery - I couldn't of bought it anywhere else
It has '4 year guarantee' written all over it
It has the date of 09/08 embossed on it.
Without a receipt he wouldn't entertain any kind of refund. I can't even remember when I bought it let alone if I bought it on it's own or with something else.
Looking for advice here... I asked for head office details but the wife has started to talk about 'Statutory rights'..
cheers
-
if you use the 'full editor' to post picture, it'll upload direct from your PC provided you've got the latest Adobe flash uploader installed.
cheers western, many thanks. The bolt goes all the way through to the other side of the chassis rail and I have a nut on there, so hopefully I'll be able to shift it.
...and can get a new one from -
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/314/253952-BOLT-1-2-UNF-X-6-1-2.html but think I'll pop down to my local merchants on Monday..
-
hmmm picture isn't there...
:-) Should be now...first time posting pics
-
Whilst fitting a steering guard yesterday on my TD5 90 I managed to shear off the head of the bolt in the picture below -
I tried to extract the remains but before getting too heavy handed I wanted to know if it threaded all the way through (I don't think it is...) or not. Also it appeared to have a couple of spot welds on it but can't be sure. Can anyone tell me please?
cheers
Gavin
-
I'm heading off in about an hour - look out for blue Defender L90 ... heading up the A1 from Herts :-)
Looks like it's going to be a nice sunny day
-
I rounded the one on the head side when I did my EGR.
Sadly it was the least accessible of the two allen bolts that fit into the exhaust manifold that turned out to have a head made of cheese…
The allen bit just turned and rounded it out, so I tapped in a torx bit, and that just rounded it out that bit more. So I tapped in the next size and of course that rounded too.
I did think about cutting the pipe to improve access and see if I could get a pair of grips on it - but then I'd be committed to getting it done and I needed the truck for work the next day.
So I used a hack saw blade and started to cut a slot into the head - I had about 5-10mm of movement - so I did that until it was becoming mental torture and packed in for the night. I figured I'd drive it up to my friends, cut the pipe off, and try to weld a bolt onto the head.
Next morning I thought I'd have another go with the hack saw blade and realised I'd made half decent progress the night before. So I tapped in a screwdriver bit and turned the ratchet … and it started to round off the head.
Oops - running out of options. So I knocked in the largest scredriver bit I had - started to turn - it started to round … so I reveresed it and tightened it up a bit and then BINGO - it came un-done.
The art of customer service is not dead
Dropped off the manifold/EGR blanking plate and new bolts (slightly longer than required, picked up from B&Q) this morning at 9:30 to local LR independent. Came out of my Home office at 11:30 and there, on the wing of the Defender sitting on the drive was the manifold with old bolts removed, helicoils fitted and EGR plate+new correct sized bolts fitted.
Cheers Garry of www.mrhlandrovers.com MRH Landrovers in Hertford. We often hear of bad garages but it's good to be able to report a good one.
Thanks,
-
Well, surprise surprise. All 10 nuts came off nice a easily on the manifold - front one top was a bit stiff but the liberal amounts of '3-in-1 penetrating fluid' and taking my time paid off. But the manifold to downpipe was another story....1 bolt OK, another had to be cut off and the third took about an hour to budge.
I couldn't drill out the two EGR Studs so the manifold is off to the local LR independent tomorrow to be drilled out by them and blanking plate fitted.
cheers
-
If you mean the two at the front end of the manifold where the stainless pipe joins on to run around the front of the engine - They're M6 x 15mm cap heads (5mm allen key.)
Thanks, that's them - off to the engineering shop tomorrow for supplies now.
If only I could get in to drill out the one on the left (Head side)... I've got to take the manifold off now in order to fix it. Not looking forward to that job at all.. any tips anyone apart from lots of Plus Gas and do it when engine is warm...?
-
Hi,
Does anyone know what size the 2 bolts are that join the EGR pipe work to the exhaust manifold on a 99' TD5 Defender?
I removed my EGR unit over the weekend and both bolts snapped in the manifold...
cheers
-
Hi,
I'm currently trying to fit an alarm to my 1999 TD5 Defender and trying to find what wire(s) I can tap into so that the alarm knows when the doors have been opened. Appreciate that discussing alarms on an open forum is a sensitive subject so If you could PM me with any responses...
-
Does sound like a flat battery, 11v at rest is indicative of a very discharged battery.
usually a full battery registers 12.6ish, and a flat one around 12.2v
Try jump starting it and if it starts then take the battery off and charge it up!
It was the battery :-) Just replaced it with one of Halfords finest and all is OK now. Thanks everyone for your advice.
-
2002 wiring diagram shows this orange/gret trace wire as the antenna wire for the alarm ecu
Thanks Western, duly noted and now saved for future use.
-
I think you'll find the orange wire is actually the receiver aerial for the 10AS alarm unit, it just hangs loose from the plug as you found.
It sounds like you have a flat battery but it could just be a loose terminal connection on the battery or a loose earth connection from battery to chassis or chassis to engine.
Brilliant! Thanks CRWoody....I was really concerned about that little wire. I'll get out and check all the earth connections in the morning... Hopefully it's that or if not a new battery. I've only had the TD5 a week so have no idea how long it's been in there - it's a Halfords one...
Thanks again
-
Evening,
I need some advice please :-)
Had a alarm device fitted today on my 1999 TD5 90 Defender and all went well. Since the guy left I noticed the clocks in the dashboard were touching the unit so I whipped off the dashboard 'pod' with the speedo, temp etc in it. Surprised to find the Green 10AS alarm unit screwed to the back of the dash (I didn't get any fobs with the car and there's no motion sensor in the cab). Anyway, unscrewed it and moved it further down behind the dash and them moved the alarm device down on top of it. All good so far - I even started it up to check all was good, and it was.
Put it all back together and now all I get when I turn the key are relays clicking like mad under the drivers seat/in the fuse box by the gear stick and under the bonnet! I'm getting 11volts on the battery before I turn the key and this drops down to 8/6volts when the relays are going off. The starter appears to try to turn but I can't be sure.
I'm thinking it's the battery but what concerns me is that I've found a orange coloured wire with a grey stripe down it from the green plug on the Alarm unit with a bare end - as if it's been pulled out from somewhere. I've tried tracing it but it's getting dark now and I just can't see where it went or a corresponding wire...
Does anyone have a clue what this wire is? Does it sound like the battery is dead...soleniod perhaps. I'm concerned it's all a bit a coincidence since I moved the alarm down.
cheers,
Spoons
-
I was looking into getting one of these aswell my freind has a very nice 06 plate and says he wouldn't touch one without warranty and now his warranty has run out he's selling up and getting a rs6
I settled for a p38 in the end and spent more money on my bobtail lol
Same here. We have decided to sell my 110 300tdi (in the pic) and get a L322 RR. My brother in Law had the V8 petrol and loved it so we are going for the same. Only issue he had was a new radiator and the recall for the front drive (I think that was it - need to research it)He was covering a 1000 miles a week and was putting in £££ to run it so it went on consumption alone
The mileage we do makes the diesel option somewhat irrelivent and I've never had a V8 
and fancy some grunt.So, I'm in the market now. Thinking of popping up to Brightwells auction in the next couple of weeks to see what they have - looking at past auctions the price range seems to be between 12k-14k for what I want.
Cheers
Gavin
-
Did your alarm still work when you had the 'two honks'?
Mine is a 2001 TD5 90 CSW and the alarm works as it 'should' most of the time - ie indicators flash and the red light on the dash flashes properly.
However every now and again I get the horn going twice and no red LED on the dash. If you open a door the alarm goes off though so it seems to be arming correctly?
I'll take a look at the under bonnet plunger if I can find it - anyone got any other ideas????
Hi,
Well I looked at the plunger under the bonnet today and removed it/cleared it up but to be fair it looked fine. I then removed the alarm siren to see if that had any cracks in it which could let water in - none.
At a loss now really :-( As soon as I blip the lock button the indicators flash as normal but the horn sounds twice. I guess it's the dreaded 'spider' issue on the circuit board of the alarm.
I will check the operation of the alarm though to see if it still works.
cheers for the advice,
Gavin
-
Hi,
After a weekend of running backwards and forwards through some waterlogged roads I now have a strange electrical problem with my '98 110 CSW.
After I parked up on the Sunday afternoon the alarm went off - standard LR 2 button fob type - after it had been armed and parked up for a hour or two. It disarmed OK and I then moved it onto my land where I armed it again. All that happened was the horn sounded once and the interior lights stayed on. I tried again but same thing.
I've just been outside and checked all the fuses (dry and intact) and removed, cleaned and refitted all the proximity switches in the doors and under the bonnet - same thing happens though. There no water in the interior lights - I checked.
Anyone have any other ideas what it is ? I guess water has got in somewhere but......where?
Thanks
Gavin
-
No they are NOT rated for a 110. Go for the correct wheels.
Thank you Mike - I've advised him to take them off.
Do you happen to know the LR names for the alloys suitable for a 110 CSW? I've no idea what mine are called but were fiited when it left the factory.
Gavin
-
Hi,
I've just fitted a set of Freestyle alloys to a mate's 98 300tdi CSW to replace the steels that were on it. The new alloys are from a Discovery and I'm not sure if they are rated for a 110? I've looked around but cannot find a definate answer... I'm concerned....
'If' they are Ok to fit.. How do we get the speedo to read correctly as the tyres are 235/70x16 ? From the distant past when I had my 90 I remember that a sprocket type part that could be fitted to the gearbox..
Any help appreciatted.
Thanks
Gavin
The mileage we do makes the diesel option somewhat irrelivent and I've never had a V8 
and fancy some grunt.
TD5 and ECU ...
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi,
I've got ECU problems on my 1999 TD5 - If I get another ECU of the same year and model etc (exactly the same) will it be a straight swap. I don't have alarm/immobiliser etc so don't need to worry about that.
Does it need programming to the injectors which Ive heard about? Any other gotcha's..?
cheers