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mjm295

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Posts posted by mjm295

  1. HI All

    I am trying to find the cause of a bearing noise. I have a question about the IRD. When I removed the right drive shaft, I stuck my fingers in to feel the splines. Should there be any play in the bearings there? If I push the spines up they move a little, the mechanic says this is normal, he said the bearings did not look worn.

    In the left hand side there does not seem to be any play, but this is part of the gearbox.

    The location is question is circled in red in the pic.

    ird.jpg

    Thanks

    Mark

  2. There should be vrtually no play on the CV joint when it's fully home in the Final Drive. The Final Drive bearings on the Honda PG1 gearbox are a know week spot and it sounds likely that yours are gone. Stripping them down is a piece of p*ss and if you're even a wee bit handy with spanners, you should manage it no bother. Most of the Rover boys also replace the bearings with metal race bearings as well. Alternatively you'll get a gearbox of fleabay for less than a hundred.

    I don't think its the gearbox - the problem is on the IRD side (near number 4 in the attached pic). I guess its time to clear some space in the garage.

    post-12817-1242529223_thumb.jpg

  3. Hi All

    I've got an annoying grating/bearing noise on left hand turns.

    Prop is removed so its currently 2wd.

    I have swapped the drive shafts over to eliminate CV's

    Changed the right hand front wheel bearing. Noise is still there.

    I'm sure its bearing noise from the IRD.

    Has anyone else on here changed a drive shaft on a 1.8? When I shoved one back in, it clicked home and would not pull out, but it felt loose, I expected it to be solid. Pulling/Pushing at it it was solid, but if I got hold of the inner CV I could wiggle it up and down and it felt like it moved a lot more than it should have. Looking at Rave it shoved straight in to the diff. Could the support bearing on that side be knackered? I guess there is no easy way to tell without stripping the IRD?

    Mark

  4. It was doing 2000 rpm when I suddenly heard the engine note increase and the revs shot up to 3000 with no increase in speed. As soon as I lifted my foot, the revs dropped and it was back in gear. It would seem this has happened about 3 times over the winter ............ any clues please, guys??

    If the engine speed increased on its own then it could be electronic.

    I'm not sure how the torque convertors work in the freelander, anyone?

  5. it has just formed a fluid leak from the backend of the vehicle (between back wheels) so far it's nothing serious just a drip now and again, i have got underneath to have a look & there's some type of gearyboxy thing immediatly above where the drips have fallen, as you can tell i'm not at all mechanically minded :lol:

    I also want to service it i would like to do a full service what do i do ? where do i grease & check for ?

    again thanks for any replies it is seriously appreciated

    Between the back wheels: rear Differential.

    Full service depends on how many miles it has done but will include:

    oil + oil filter change

    air filter change

    glow plug change?

    check brakes (renew if necessary :-o )

    check other fluid levels (steering, coolant)

    depending on mileage change gearbox and IRD oil

    check tyre pressures

    the list goes on.....

  6. My cordless is only used for doing up screws, (B&D 14v) its done me well for 4 years so far. For any proper drilling I use a plug in one. I had a cheap £25 Black and Decker plug in drill that has done me for 8 years, including loads of DIY house work and a big extension AND building a kit car where a lot of the body was made from stainless which knackered a lot of drill bits.

    I did manage to knacker my dads Bosch grinder on the same car. Was a great grinder though. Lasted 10x longer than the cheapy B&Q effort.

  7. VCU support bearings?

    Yeah - another possible, its just strange that it only happens on left turns above certain speeds. I guess its time to whip the prop shaft off and run her in 2wd for a while.

    Need to fit the towbar later today, so will see what time I have left once that is done.

  8. Les - I have the hub off, it all turns freely, and is tight, it wont freely spin, but moves smoothly when I turn it by hand.

    The CV joint does feel quite loose, I can move it around quite easily with light pressure from 1 finger, infact it would probably slop about if I took the whole thing out of the car. I am about to cut the tie and pack it with grease to see if it gets an quieter. TBH its a bit loose for my liking, I remember last time I changed a CV, the new one was very tight and hard to move by hand.

    So its new drive shaft time I think

    OK packed with grease and its still making the noise, could it be the inner cv joint? it only does it over 20mph turning left, so that wheel will be unloaded and dropping, putting more of a bend in the inner joint?

    What are your thoughts?

    EDIT:

    can I swap the drive shafts as see if the noise goes? or moves to the other side?

    I guess I should grab some new drive shaft hub nuts.

  9. Hahaha

    Thanks again Les, I did not intend to touch the disks. I was planning to reach around the back and feel the hub. I guess the best thing to do is strip them again and have a look/feel.

    Les - I have the hub off, it all turns freely, and is tight, it wont freely spin, but moves smoothly when I turn it by hand.

    The CV joint does feel quite loose, I can move it around quite easily with light pressure from 1 finger, infact it would probably slop about if I took the whole thing out of the car. I am about to cut the tie and pack it with grease to see if it gets an quieter. TBH its a bit loose for my liking, I remember last time I changed a CV, the new one was very tight and hard to move by hand.

    So its new drive shaft time I think

  10. The bearing would have to be seriously worn/running dry in order for it to generate detectable heat. Binding brakes tend to cause excessive radiant heat from a single hub in comparison to the opposite side, but generally this problem doesn't cause any noise when the vehicle is used (just directional change when braking or bashing into things when you don't expect to :) ) I wouldn't touch the disc to determine excessive heat unless you have no further use for the skin on your finger tip. Spit on both discs and watch the difference - a heat loaded disc will boil it and may also be blue to look at.

    Les.

    Hahaha

    Thanks again Les, I did not intend to touch the disks. I was planning to reach around the back and feel the hub. I guess the best thing to do is strip them again and have a look/feel.

  11. There's still a wheel bearing - the drive shaft passes through it immediately after the CV joint. It's a one piece sleeved bearing, so has to be pressed in. Identifying if it's the wheel bearing isn't so easy unless it's started to break up. The usual way is to jack the wheel clear of the ground and then spin/rock it to look for signs of wear/excessive play. Unfortunately this doesn't work with Freelanders - due to the drive train. Normal method is to pull the hub off the driveshaft and then spin the hub - it should turn smoothly with some resistance and no other play.

    Les.

    Thanks Les, I did have the hub off at the weekend, but didn't really notice any play, however I was not sure what I was looking for. Seeing as its only a 30 minute job to whip the hub off I will have another go this weekend. time permitting.

    Also - Will that hub tend to run hotter? just a thought, I guess I could shove a hand in there to check.

  12. 2000, 1.8XEi

    On left turns, there is a loud chattering sound from the front of the car, its quite like a knackered bearing sound. I thought CV joint? but there is no clicking on tight turns, it runs great in a straight line, and doesn't make a sound on turning right.

    The noise only seems to happen at 2nd gear speeds. ie when turning in to the end of the street, or coming out of the carpark at work. It doesnt happen when pulling out of a parking space, and is not there at higher speeds. Its not just in 2nd though - that was just to give an idea of speed.

    Any Ideas?

    Thanks.

  13. Put some weight/pressure at the rear of the seat base when trying to lift the back rest.

    The hook that you mentioned it a mechanism that prevents the seat back from returning to upright unless the based is fully latched.

    Mark.

    Thanks Mark, I guess there is a knack to it, I need to practice :blink:

  14. Bang it harder?

    The jack is in a little canvas bag on the right hand side of the engine bay (as you stand at the front looking in).

    Al.

    Thanks - I found the jack :-)

    I also manger to get the seats back up, but not sure how/why it worked?!?!

  15. depending on the year of freelander you may have problems with the ird box. landrover changed them in late 2000. anything before i`d be wary of

    I have just purchased a 2000 model, registered in sept 2000. How can I tell if I am at risk? Is there an easy way to tell the ratios in the ird without taking it apart and counting teeth? :ph34r:

  16. Hi All

    Newbie problem

    I have folded the rear seat down, then right forward against the front seats (trying to find the jack) I can release them and drop, the bottom the seats to the floor, but when I try to fold the rear of the seats back up they get stuck at about 40 degrees, I have felt around and it seems that there is a clamp that grips the 2 rails on the floor. When I try to put the rear of the seats back it is getting stuck around there. Any ideas?

    Also, where is the jack located?

    Thanks

    Mark

  17. Hi All

    I have just purchased a 2000 model 1.8XEi Feelender with only 40,000 miles on it. Its in great condition.

    I've read a lot about the Viscous Coupling locking up and knackering the IRD!!!

    Can I service the VC? Can I check to see if it is about to fail?

    What should I be looking for?

    I've built kit cars before but not played with 4x4's. So I'm keen to get the tools back out. :rolleyes:

    Mark

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