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uksniper1

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Posts posted by uksniper1

  1. hi,could any one tell me which way round a thermostat goes into a 3.9 v8 rangerover classic please?..is it long end into engine and short bit into thermstat housing,or short bit into engine and long bit into housing?...im asking as when i removed my housing it fell out and im unsure what way round it goes..

    cheers,wayne. ;)

  2. IIRC the grease is supposed to be there, in an effor to water proof/corrosion inhibit the terminal, which lets face it are always going to be subject to the traditional LR water ingress.

    I would re-grease what you have removed, it shouldn't affect the electrical connections really.

    hi mate,yeah i can see why the grease may have been used originally,as ive sealed an waterproofed all the rangie myself,as i do a lot of deep river crossings in her,but i mean when some one else had greased theese holders they realy had lol..it was everywhere,the holders were full to the top,and all on the connections and even the fuses were full,i left a little in for any flooding in the cabin that may occur,but im happy with the outcome as now i get abs pedal shake if i hit pot-holes whilst breaking, but she stops now instead of brake fail.. ;)

  3. Sniper

    Are you saying that your problem was electrical?

    hi mate,yep it must have been ,as all is fine now.she stops on a penny after hitting a pot hole,instead of just sailing on with no brakes at all.. ;)

  4. hi guys,thanks for the replies,well i checked the fuses and and relays under the passenger seat and heres what i found.... all the fuse holders were filled with grease(i mean filled lol),and one of the fuses was half way in,as the connector going into the fuse holder had popped out,so after a good degrease and clean out with a stiff paint brush i set off down our farm track(very rutted an bumpy),,i hit the brakes just as i dropped into a pot hole,and the pedal vibrated .BUT ..then the rangie stopped!!..yippeee,its worked,,i tried a few times and the alls ok,the abs shakes the pedal but she stops just fine now,,so id like to say thank you for all the replies and help guys,and i hope this helps any one in the future if they have the same problem,,all the best...wayne.

  5. hi,ive checked wheel bearings an all was fine,and the shocks are new procomps i fitted a while ago now,but they seem good too,lol no im not a 'enthusiastic' driver lol,it happend this morning doing around 20 mph,and i dont go over 50mph to be honest,i wouldda said it was just the abs cutting in too but,it isnt slowing down at all,it just sorta rolls on with pedal shake and no braking is happening,plus this is at low speeds and on good tarmac roads too,so realy there would be no reason for the abs to be taking over as im not heavy breaking at the time i hit the pot holes etc,,,im so stumped at the moment,dont know wot it can be...

  6. hi guys,thanks for the replies,ok,the pedal is good,nice an high and hard,the brakes are normally great an stop you dead,fluids is ok,and discs etc,its just when i hit a deep pot hole or deep rut in the road whilst braking,then the brake pedal vibrates,and i cant stop,you can push harder on the pedal and you still are moving just more vibration and no stopping,it lasts for a couple of seconds,or sometimes you can lift off and reapply pedal and alls fine again,,its very odd...

  7. hi all,i still have the annoying brake problem on my 1989 3.9 v8 rangerover classic,,ok here goes....my brakes are usualy very good,BUT..every now an again something very odd happens,if i hit a hole in the road or large bump while braking my brake pedal vibrates like mad an i loose all brakes for a couple of seconds,then they come back again..ive changed discs,pads etc,but still does it now an again,and of course its rather scary too!!,so im looking for any ideas on what this could be,i know i had a strange problem in the winter when i went out to the rangie and all 4 brakes were locked on solid,so i undid one of the 2 bleed screws on the booster unit and they freed off again,could i have let air in or some thing causing this problem i have now?..shes done 150 k miles now,so maybe a brake fluid change may help?,or could it be the accumulator?..i just havent got a clue what to try next,an as you can imagine i want to sort it very quickly too,before the brakes go all together,so please any help,or similar experiences?..thanks loads..look forward to you replies..all the best ,wayne.

  8. ive just been chatting to the manufacturer and theve told me the tie bars should always be tight,a common problem with fitting winches is.. a mounting hole thats not dead on flares the winch body out a tad when the bolts tightened up making the tie bars roll,and become looser..just thought id post this in case this has happened to any one else,,cheers.. ;)

  9. hi guys,hope all is well...ive recently bought a new winch,and ive noticed the 2 tie rods/bars that run along the top are not very tight,as in they turn round,,,are these meant to be loose or should i tighten them up?,,,cheers and all the best.. ;)

  10. Hi Guys

    Just to add my two penneth, today we had very heavey snow so never driving

    my DSE auto on snow and ice I went out for a play, I found that if you selected

    low box hill decent gear 1 on desending the hill all four wheels locked up and

    I went for a nice slide before changing to gear 2 which released the lockup and the

    ABS kicked in applying the brakes when needed. I must admit its a bit scarey

    but if you let the vehicle do its bit its ok.

    I also tried applying the brakes whilst in low box and got the same results a

    bouncy brake pedal and a lot of noise from the ABS.

    So I suggest you try decending in a gear that is suitable for the gradient and let

    the vehicle control the decent, I tried several decents using different gears

    and found that if the gear is to low all four wheels lockup, and you have no control

    of the decent even steering, maybe its different on gravel or sand not so slippy.

    Regards

    Brian

    hi brian..thanks for that mate,,so the pedal will bounce up and down sometimes,phew i thought summat had broke on mine mate lol,as it realy caught me out,she only ever done it twice before..ok ill go an do a few tests to see how she likes different gears an set ups..thanks for that mate,,thats a great help.all the best,and thanks again,wayne.

  11. That does sound like the ABS.

    Just put it in 1L and stop worrying about the brake, you shouldn't be touching it anyway.

    hi,and thanks for the reply..yeah looks like im gonna have to use low range more often on looser sufaces down hill,as the vehicle speeding up instead of slowing down did catch me out a bit...cheers,,wayne.

  12. I personally think ABS is fantastic off road as you can stop all be it slowly, unlike non ABS which will just skid. I think engine braking is normally sufficient all though it is a little hi geared compared to a manual. But gentle on the brake keeps it under control.

    hi,yeah abs is supposed to be good off road,,but mine just locked up an wouldnt slow down enough mate,if anything it sped up.maybe ill have to look into it a bit more,,might be a problem some where,,thanks for the reply...wayne.

  13. This NOT a 'lol' matter.

    I agree with Geoff's comments but take a much stronger view.

    You don't have to agree with comments of strangers over the internet, but you should at least make some attempt to understand what the vehicle is telling you.

    You may assess the situation as "the slope didn't need low box (wasn't a big drop down) and I was only doing around 5 mph, I was just slowing down for a set of ruts in the middle", but the reaction of the vehicle is telling you that you were WRONG.

    Why can't you accept that ??

    I'm thinking 'Gresham' here, who also thought he knew best, and when proved wrong, still didn't accept he was wrong.

    The vehicle is telling you that you did need a lower gear, and if that means low box, then use it.

    If the engine braking is weaker than standard because of the modifications YOU are responsible for, then WAKE UP and change your driving to suit the changed performance characteristics.

    Gresham

    And now you want to disable the ABS!!

    mmm..do you always phrase your replies in a offensive form??..i was keeping my posts light hearted.and friendly,doesnt mean im not listining and taking in the advise..DOES IT?..and i dont take kindly to having my vehicle comapared to a bodged pile of rubbish either!..(dissapointed)...wayne.

  14. The ABS system won't kick in unless one or more tyres lose grip - it's a fully independent system so will only operate on the corner(s) that need it, so there's nothing to be gained from disconnecting it*. Cadence braking is pointless as it's doing the same thing as the ABS only no-where near as well.

    Technically you could stop the ABS simply by disconnecting one of the ABS sensors (not on the road, obviously - if you need it road legal you're going to have to rip the ABS system out and fit an older brake system so that what you have is working properly), but in the same situation you were in you'd simply lock the wheels and have less control, not more...

    Even with standard tyres, low range 1st in an auto range rover isn't always adequate for hill descents in my experience.

    * - apparently it's sometimes desirable to deliberately lock the wheels in sand in order to plow up a ridge in front of the wheel - I've no experience of sand driving so take that as you will. You can do the same in reasonably deep snow, but I've never found it adequate to slow a land rover.

    hi mate,,yeah the rangies engine braking isnt fantastic is it lol..ah well ill just have to remember to be carefull in the down hill parts then..not too much else i can do i think..thanks for the replies guys...atb..wayne.

  15. Without being patronising, I am not sure you have the correct technique for descending steep slopes. The normal method is first low and feet off everything, letting engine braking keep your speed under control. The footbrake will just lock up the front wheels - no steering and even a risk of a flip over.

    hi,ive been offroading a while now mate,,and even cadence braking,witch i tryed to do to get brakes back didnt help too much, and the rangies a auto on 32 inch tyres ,so engine braking isnt that good any more,but the slope didnt need low box(wasnt a big drop down) an i was only doing around 5 mph,,i was just slowing down for a set of ruts in the middle when the brakes went odd..cheers..wayne.

  16. hi,went offroading yesterday,and was coming down a steep bank and applied the brakes, when the brake pedal started bouncing an vibrating an couldnt get the truck to stop very quick,,almost like i was sliding on ice,,i lifted an reapplied brake but was still the same till the bottom,,(quite scary)..was this the abs working overtime an trying to grab the brakes ?..as if it was im gonna dissconect it,,as instead of helping it took away all braking instead an replaced it with a very bouncy an unresponsive,uncontrollable set of brakes,,,when i reached the bottom all was fine,,it has done this on snow whilst sliding too before,,,any help please as ive got some big events coming up an this is no good when decending...thanks loads..ps how is the best way to disconnect the abs if this is the problem,,,wayne.. ;)

  17. the tippex test is done by putting a dot on each prop in the same place and on the viscous in a line.then drive a figure of 8 full lock backwards.the dots should go out of line if the dots are in the same place then the chances are its siezed.if the freelander feels like its brakeing when on full lock backwards ie like the handbrakes half on then its probally getting tight.the original vcu,s did feel a bit tight that was normal.ie you should be able to do a full lock u turn backwards on tickover. without stalling or excessive engine drag at tickover with clutch right up.the vcu is a form of fluid clutch and allows slip so no damage is done to the ird of diff from excessive strain so both props can move at diffrant speeds.but if front wheels/prop spin faster than rear then vcu heats up and locks both props to give solid 4 wheel drive and as it cools it lets the slip come back.

    hope this helps

    dave

    thanks loads mate,,thats great,will let him know,,cheers,wayne. ;)

  18. hi,after painting and undersealing all the under side of the rangie i noticed this spare arm bracket,was wondering whats it for(on the left side of axle next to hockey stick),and what can it be used for,as ive seen some with a damper fitted here..thanks for any light shone on it.. ;)

    post-12869-125890452498_thumb.jpg

  19. hi,thanks for the replies,and the pictures too,the tray i was looking at i was gonna weld it onto top of the flat suface of the nugde bar,but since then ive come across a tray that fits onto the standard bumper mounts and fits in front of your bumper(keping standard bumper on),i guess it will be one of thoose winches that poke out a bit from the front with that design,(similar to the hilux style protruding trays),any thoughts on thoose too?,,ant what would be the best way to go now,i have the cash in me pocket ready,but dont wanna give meself to much welding and fabrication to to if i can help it...thanks again guys,,all the best,,wayne. ;)

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