Eurocracy
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Posts posted by Eurocracy
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This is something I'd like to do as well, I also have an '04 'Landmark'
Anyone?
Have a look under "Seat Heater Install" on http://www.discoweb.org/tech.htm
The only downside is that for the switch install it links to www.disco2.com which is no more
Hope this helps in some way...
Euro
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Dom,
There's nothing really wrong with automatics - and they can be good for towing caravans especially on uneven ground or with poor traction - no messing about with the clutch, easy in traffic, etc.
That said, manual boxes are usually cheaper - why not try to find a lower mileage car with a manual box for the same price? I have a 2003 TD5 ES which needed a new (manual) gearbox and power steering box at 90K miles
and a transfer box failing now at 110K 
- so I'd recommend that you tread carefully here (but I may have been unlucky).Why not try posting the question about the Freelander value in the Freelander forum?
Euro
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255/85's will give you about 0.75 inches more ground clearance but it's an expensive option - about £50 per tyre dearer than a 235/85 or 265/75.
Www.tyrespec.co.uk have 10% off the cooper discoverer st 255/85 at the moment, so about £128 per tyre. 265/75's are only £90 though.
Euro
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I'm just about to do this to my 03 Disco TD5, although it looks as if it would be easier on the Defender - there's more space for starters. If you've the later EU3 engine, the regulator should have 3 pipes and the technical archive article here covers it on the Disco:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25537
As for the filter, you can see this in the write up on the discovery2.co.uk website:
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Fpr.html
The filter is a small gauze filter just behind the o-ring. I'm going to change the o-ring - it's pennies as you say and worth doing now - but the filter is silly money if I recall. I'm going to see if I can just clean it and re-use it.
I got the regulator, gasket and o-ring from www.lrseries.com - cheapest I could find. It's an OEM regulator (and in a Britpart box).
Hope this helps - others may have more practical experience though!
Euro
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Were your friends thinking of 255/85 tyres though?
They are taller and are said to fit without lifts or modifications. I'm weighing up getting them for my 110, although they are more expensive.
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Has the rotary oil filter been changed?. Mine had a very worrying clatter when just stopped followed by a whirring sound. After changing the rotary filter this has now settled down to just a slight whine. I think some td5's have a live of this filter being overlooked.
just a thought
I know the whirring sound you mean. I had it on a non genuine filter on the Disco once. I've just fitted a new Bearmach one and it seems okay.
I've taken the top cover off the engine and the clatter is much quieter. I'm going to see if it's the rubber mountings in the cover.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
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Mine do same noise when i shut it down, no matter if 5 degrees or 40..... I simply have learned to live with it.... This noise came aorund 1.5 years and 30.ooo kms ago.... I have tried everything and nothing works....
Thank you both. It's just noisy. I've rechecked the engine mounts and they are fine - but I'm going to take the engine cover off next and see if that helps. I can live with the noise, I just wanted to check that it wasn't a common problem which would lead to worse things.
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Hmm. They looked okay but I'll check them out a bit more. It does sound like something big is loose (like the engine itself!).
Searching the forum, it doesn't sound like a common issue.
Euro
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Hi all,
I've got two TD5's - a Disco ES and an 04 Defender 110 TD5. The 'fender I got not long ago in a mad ebay purchase. The defender seems fine - and I've just changed just about every oil and fluid it has but it has one hell of a clatter from the engine when it's switched off. It's done a few miles (125K) but doesn't leak, doesn't seem to be leaking diesel into the sump, doesn't create any smoke and runs and pulls okay (hmm, is it a Land Rover engine?). Engine mounts seem fine. I've no warnings on the dash either.
Anyone ever seen this before or am I just used to the Disco's soundproofing and this is normal?
Any ideas welcome!
Euro
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Yeah, I wish I had the time that I used to to bowse the forums. Hardly get time to drive (or work on) Defender nevermind read forums.
However .. I was hoping to find a sort of checklist of things to look at - I am sure I have seen it somewhere before- might have been in one of the mags.
In the meantime the link sent my Ralph look promising.
Stuff I've seen myself or heard of - there are probably plenty of others:
1. Oil in the ECU as mentioned, under the drivers seat - fixed by fitting a new injector wiring loom under the rocker cover
2. Diesel in the oil - the o rings fail on injectors, leaking fuel into the engine
3. Diesel leaking from the drivers side of the engine from a fuel regulator
4. Water leaking out from a cooler blanking plug underneath the exhaust manifold
5. The dreaded oil pump failure in early TD5's - a bolt becomes loose, oil pressure dies and one broken engine. Later TD5's don't seem to have this problem (I've got 2 TD5's, 53 and 04 reg, both done over 100K and not seen this. I touch wood quickly.)
6. The wrong gasket being used with the rocker cover when an injector wiring loom has been fitted, leaking oil down the back of the engine
7. Oil leaks from the sump gasket (but it's a land rover - extra rust proofing for the front of the car)
8. Oil leaks from the rear crank seal
9. Head gasket failures - a big deal if the head warps - so check for oil in the coolant and vice versa
10. Injector failure - the engine tries to accommodate this but can only take it so far. New injectors are pricey.
11. Turbo failure - but any turbo really, if a ton of smoke comes out when you floor it, the turbo could be on the way out or it's been badly chipped.
I've seen problems number (1), (4), (6), (7) - so nothing big so far - and not seen any of the others.
But one of the good things about the TD5 is that you can get some decent diagnostics off the ECU with the right reader about engine temps, injector performance, air flow, turbo pressure. I've a Nancom and it's good for piece of mind with the electronics.
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Hi everyone,
Does anyone know roughly how much new PAS fluid is needed when you change the power steering box on a 2003 Discovery 2 RHD?
The owner's manual says it should be Texaco Cold Climate PAS Fluid 14315. Brit Parts seem to stock this as part number STC50519 too.
Anyone know how much is needed? Or should I just visit the main stealers...
Apologies if this has been asked before...and thanks in advance.
Euro
- so I'd recommend that you tread carefully here (but I may have been unlucky).
Perplexing final speed restriction on Disco Td5, ECU causing it?
in Discovery Forum
Posted
It's absolute - when the turbo isn't spinning, it's around the same as ambient.
I'd second the fuel regulator being a possible culprit. I changed mine recently (had to do the god-awful job three times...long story) but the car's performance picked up noticeably with the new reg in.
Prior to swapping it out my Nanocom stats were all fine (quite similar actually) and they looked the same after swapping it out.
How did you check the pressure on the regulator and fuel pump? As Ally V8 mentioned, they produce a fair amount of pressure as standard.