plank22
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Posts posted by plank22
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Hi,
My 3.9 is ready to be taken out and put in the bin just want to make sure I do it without damaging the oil pump on the auto box. The front grill and wings are off so the engine can move directly forward, would this be ok or do I need to unbolt the T.con before I undo the bell housing bolts and take the engine off???
Thanks.
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The ECU will run the engine at a fast idle if it sees a low battery voltage during cranking, botht to prevent it stalling with a potentially flat battery and to put a little life back in the battery
Sounds a little advanced for Rover Hot Wire!!!!! Im very impressed!!!
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I have done it. I allready had a v8 and rangie axles so im not sure if any other series stuff will clash but I had to cut out the front X memeber remove all the series stearing box and replace the steering coloum with a rangie one. As for the pump I drilled and tapped a few holes in the block and made a bracket to take the pump. Mounting the box wasnt too difficult but as someone else has said it does take alot of work with the gas axe and welder!
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cheers for the help guys but im gonna go for the haltech as its all sitting there looking at me! Done a bit of learning and it doesnt seem too hard.
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The only certain way to determine the splines is to pull a half shaft, which is a pain on a front axle.
Having said that, an H reg Rangie axle is 99% certain to be 10 spline.
Even if it was 24 spline it would still be OK as a replacement for your broken one, just make sure your radius arms are the correct width for the brackets on the axle.
ok cheers started to put in today. thanks.
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My front axle on me hybrid is busted and have another doner axle waiting to go in but want to know its the same. I know my old one is 10 spline or old rangie and this doner one is off a H reg 3.9. Have noticed that the hubs allready have a cir-clip holding stuff on under a rubber cap. Is this a 24 slpine? If so are the 10 and 24's have different ratios? Thanks.
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so does the volvo stepper work in the same way as the hotwire one? just need give it air in and out??? (obviously fab up a bracket or two) any one got pics of this??? Also the trigger wheel I have is 60 something teeth will MS regoginse this?
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ok getting blured vision!!!!!
1) where do I buy one?
2) did you buy all the lamba and air temp sensors seperate or do they do a complete kit? I saw you used ford coil packs.
3) you have done this on a flapper system and say the stepper motor wont work on MS1 is this the same for hotwire? the motors look the same in the pics but cant see where you have put the new volvo stepper.
4) sorry if you have allready answered this in the post but didnt see!
5) I want one. Now.
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kicking back commencing.......
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ok will kick back with a beer tomorrow and get reading!!! thanks nige.
Werll here is your answer
Read here : http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=15317
Until you go numb and fall off your chair
Then , get beer (lots off + Crisps and HobNobs) and press on
Nige
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Hello all,
I have in my posession a hal-tech loom and ECU and am thinking about using it on my 3.9 all though Im not sure if im taking a harder and more expensive route. When I changed over to auto I put in a trigger wheel which is fixed onto the flex plate and a crank sensor mounted onto the bell housing. I know how I would go about using the hal-tech (just like emerald ect.) but understand I would need the system mapped after with a rolling road would this be the same situation with a megasquirt package? I have read "white 90's" blog in the techincal archive and has got me wondering about MS. It seems the system most use on a land rover V8. Is the MS more of a plug and play? I believe that bewteen me and friends that we have enough knowlage to put a new loom in no problem. Also what are coil packs and the whole MS syslem like with water???
I know its a subject covered thousands of times with lots of archives about it but just dont know where to start!
Thanks.
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There's trialling once a month in Kent, i'll dig some info out for you
ahh thanks for the reminder, KORC just seeyour post!!! will watch that post, thanks.
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Finally after many years of building my land rover is ready to play with but dont know where to go! does any one know of stuff going on in kent/greater london area? Fancy doing trialing but anything will do, just dont have a winch thats all. Thanks.
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We use brake cleaner all the time, especially for alu, its the best for removing grease. The bit I dont understand is that the smallest piece of heat and the BC evaporates off in a split second or goes bang! So I blow off with an airline before welding up. We use Wurth brake cleaner.
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Hi all
Just wanted to add that I found the answer to my conundrum so in case you were wondering the thread size on the sender is 5/8" unf.
Credit must go to Paul at Demon Tweeks for identifying the size of the thread and for selling me a new temperature gauge and converter I now have a fully operational gauge so I can now keep an eye on the temperature of my V8 engine
Regards
Bigant
I remember wanting to know the size of that thread for some reason, cant remeber why, was on the inlet manifold. IRRC was 14 TPI witch i think is NPT
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Looking at that I would spend my money on a half decent second hand myford lathe or somthing similar seeing as that mill couldnt machine a lump out of a digestive biscuit. What sort of things are you wanting to use a mill for as a small mill is very limited.
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Hi, I've done a search and can't find the answer. I've got a 3.5 V8 EFI fitted in my 90. The oil pressure warning light isn't working. I've checked the bulb in the instrument binacle and its ok. I've checked the oil pressure switch with a multi tester and thats ok also. I'm worried that there's not alot of oil pressure as the engine has started to be noisey at the top end on cold start .
Is there an easy check i can make to check the pressure, i intend buying a gauge for the cab but not just yet as i don't know what type to get or how it all fits. The 90 isn't on the road yet and has been standing for a while so could probably do with oil and filter change. Theres plenty in it at the moment and its must have been changed soon before i bought it as the oil isn't black yet.
Any replies appreciated
thanks
Max
so is the warning light working or not cos you said you tested that and the sender and you said both were ok? If you intend to buy a gauge then just get one now, not hard to fit and will give you an answer. Make sure the one you get comes all the gubbins you need whick will be the gauge, length of copper microbore and a T piece. The T piece goes in where the sender is and the sender goes back in on the other side of the T. All very easy it all screws together. I got TIM gauges from deamon freaks.
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Gearbox oil level should be checked cold. Well that is what I have always done abd
been led to believe.
going by the manual it says to get it up to running temp.
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Suggest you change the filter.
Looking in the LR manual many loss of drive issues are listed as low fluid level (which you've ruled out) or blocked/partially blocked filter.
Just wonder if the 'lots of small bits' points to problems in the box. If you look on Ashcrofts site in the FAQ it does talk about problems caused by internal debris.
ok will order up a filter tomorrow and let you know what happens. Thanks.
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I would not expect this to be a torque converter problem - they don't have any moving parts as such and tend to either work (create drive) or not.
It might be a blocked filter causing the pump to run dry resulting in lack of drive
humm that was my first port of call and upon lookin the filter had lots of small bits in it but not what i would call "blocked"
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When you checked the oil level did you check it with the engine ticking over, in neutral, after cycling it through all the gears ?
yep ran it up to temp flicked trough all the gears pausing at each one then checkin the level in neutral.
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What is it like in reverse ?
same as the others works fine then dead after a minute of running.
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Go the auto in my hybrid and all running after the recent oil pump breakage, so yeterday i was most pleased when a little test drive worked sweet with all the gears and kickdown working fine. untill i acctually wanted to used if today and i got to the end of the road and lost all drive. the only symptom i can give is that if you switch off for 5-10mins then you will get drive in all gears ok but can only drive for about 100m then all the drive has gone again. any ideas? whats the symptons of a broken torque converter? thanks in advance!
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I have painted a few bit on me S3. Bought the paint from paddocks (they got all land rover colours) rub the pannel down wit a scotch brite and get out a brush. I was most supprised with the finish seeing as I guessed the amount of thinners to paint ratio and didnt leave the shine in the tin!
How to take engine out...
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Enough said! Thanks Bowie will unbolt the T.C first.
Cheers.