rochie
-
Posts
11 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by rochie
-
-
I had the exact same problem and it was easily resolved by ensuring a good earth on the gauge as Vulcan Bomber suggests
-
My 1990 110 chassis has one set of shock mount holes in front of the spring hanger and one set behind. It's only the one's in front that are used at the moment though. It was Ex services - dont know if that's relevant?
-
Wonder why they were trying to get the front screen out?
Sad thing is, the parts will probably be bought by some unsuspecting person on ebay or the like.
Tis a heated windscreen - I guess they're valuable enough.
You're right - with the theft of parts getting more common it's getting to the stage where we wont be able to buy parts from the small adds etc.
-
Thanks Guys. They made a half-arsed attempt to leave it on blocks but also did a bit of damage inside and out. Took the drivers side alpine roof light and rear quarter light (possibly to get in) and made a start on removing the windscreen and passenger alpine
Forensics working over it now.
Fandrover: All tyres were General Grabber TRs with good tread left on them. Thanks
-
Some light fingered barsteward stole the full set of boost alloys fitted with general grabbers off our Defender last night.
They were stolen in the Haywards Heath area of West Sussex so just wanted to let everyone know to be vigilant. The wheels were fitted with the LR security nut so they probably came prepared.
Needless to say if anyone sees a set for sale in the near future it would be a good idea to check their provenance and make sure that we're not supporting the market for stolen parts.
All the best
Keith
-
I've got one and I found the hole punch bit to be really handy during a recent bulkhead restoration. It doesn't leave any burr as would a drill when preparing for 'spot'/puddle welds.
The joggler works well on 1.2mm but might struggle a bit on 1.6mm I would say. It'd need a good head of steam behind it.
There is't a big difference in price between the pneumatic one and a manual one so I'm well pleased with this one.
Keith
-
What about the plier style ones? The radius on these looks a bit tighter?
You'll find cheaper ones, I just chose that listing because it had a better piccy.
-
I'm looking at similar options myself to add a 3 point belt to the centre seat.
I think the kind of bar that you talking about is shown in this thread but cant help any more than that.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26885
Anybody got any good ideas about how to fit a 3 point belt for the centre seat in a truck cab? What sort of reinforcing should be used to add the 'upper' mount to the bulkhead?
-
Have you thought about loft insulation, not the glass fibre type but the hi-tech layered space blanket type. Its very effective and thin, not particually expensive either.
Whatever you do youll likely still get condensation because water naturally gathers on the coldest surface, if its not the roof, itll be the sides, or quite possibly the windows!
I'd go with this kind of stuff. Should offer far better performance than foam etc.
I would have thought that some form of vapour barrier / control layer would be just and important as the insulation (this hi-tech stuff acts as insulation and vapour barrier in 1 but tape the joints ). Without it, water vapour will still condense on any cold surfaces it can get at e.g. behind linings.
-
i didnt think you could put disc brake parts onto a drum brake case.
Oh yes you can: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=11685
Front left of 110 is sitting low?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Apologies if this is stating the obvious but is it possible that the top of the rear drivers-side spring is not properly seated in it's mount? I had the same symptoms while I was changing springs and found this to be tha cause...