straightshooter
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Posts posted by straightshooter
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cheers bud
well i have installed a new battery nd she is not running that bad so this will b a job for another day
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well chaps just a quick update it's the first MOT tommorrow since doing the wor on here so fingers cossed
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well guys just searching around on the web and this thread popped up so I thought I would bring it back from the dead
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yes it's the vacum for me too! well if thats the case I know what it is
I dismantled the dizzy before instaling it to give it a quick clean, must have put it back together wrong! so what you are saying move them all round by 4 positions? -
well all just thought I would update you all on the progress tried the lead way and the tooth way both dont work as when I need to rotate the dizzy clockwise it hits the top water pipe which basically means it wont rotate enough to get the original setting and wont start so looks like i will have to live with what i have which really isn't that bad but would have been nice to get the timing spot on
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I agree bud I think and internal hoop from P&P when funds allow will be the way I will go
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right replaced hoses they were the wrong way round according to the workshop manual still nothing top hose is hot bottom is luke warm
:wacko: :wacko: -
confused you will be! I think i have it lol! well got her home today and dhe is sitting on my drive hopefully it wont rain tomorrow and I'll give it a bash
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:huh: :huh: 
:unsure: :unsure: 
:hysterical: :hysterical:
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thanks for all the replies guys all the answers seem to make sence but the easiest option seems to be your's TRE, but my brain is not working. So let me get this straight if I am looking for more adjustment anti clockwise I would need to move the HT's Clockwise ?! yes thats right isn't it?!
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The problem is after I installed the dizzy the engine fired up no problem tick over was reasonable but not great under high revs the engine coughed and spluttered and backfired etc so I decided to adjust the timing I turned the dizzy clockwise first which just made things worse so then I turned the dizzy anti clockwise and things got better then i hit a snag the vacuum advanced stops the dizzy from turning enough as it catches on the water pump housing I only need to turn it 1/2 cm It's the pipe that catches not the main body any ideas out there
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right got the rotor arm today and rushed down the garage to fit this set up everything went in nicely and she fired up straight away apart from the fact that the battery was flat the coil is performing ok still getting a little hot but nothing like the others right now the problem is I went to set up the timing by ear and she needs to be turned further than she will turn ie the vacum advance thingy on the side of the dizzy wont allow me to turn any further as it's against the water pump housing I only need 1/2 cm if that but no go any suggestions
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The amp was already there when I bought the RR but as you say no need with the dizzy and the performance coil well we shall see tomorrow if the rotor arm arrives I can get it all set up
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Found an interesting article on the web if anyone is interested:
http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ignition-systems.html
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cheers bud will do
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right guys thanks for the replies ok what I have done so far I have purchased a
Genuine LUCAS High Performance Standard 12v Sports Coil DLB105
which is non ballast upgrade I have also sorced a Lucas 35DLM8 Dizzy which I spent yesterday afternoon overhauling (fingers crossed it still works) so out of the stone age into the iron age that is all i can afford at the moment lol! but this is contrary to what you said TRE as I didn't wait for your replies
so will the non ballast coil system be ok with the dizzy I have aquired?I also decided purchase a new rotor arm so that should be with me tomorrow and I can see if this little lot will work. In the mean time thought I would mount the coil and remove the old ones well the one that fried really did fry never looked closely at it but I did today and it had leaked the oil out of it and rattled like a gooden, so thats defo dead!
another point she also had a aftermarket power amplifier fitted should I leave this in place or bin it?
see below:
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cheers bud you are a gentle man
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hi all my car is at the garage and I need the tailgate glass dimensions upto the frame can anyone help
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right all when I bought my Bobby, I really didn't use her at all now that she is nearly ready for the dredded MOT. I have been running her up etc. setting up timing, sorting out the emisions etc. Now the problem is when I let her warm up then turn her off she is very difficult to start I noticed that the coil was getting very hot and as time has gone by she is becoming more and more difficult to start. The other day the coil got so hot the coil has become disfigured and I was hearing a load of crackling which I presum means the coil has burnt out. now I have a spare mounted just for such a problem connected that one and bang she started straight away, but now that coil has been on there a while same symptoms seem to be coming back. so what I have done so far is checked the current going into the coil which reads 13.4V which I have read on the net that I must be running with a non ballast system, but both the coils the spare and the burnt out one are ballast coils which should be running on a regulated 9v so I am presuming that this is why they are burning out? or am I wrong? so the question is if this is causing the problem do I a) get a non Ballast coil or b) get a ballast in place?
and by the way it's running on a dual point distributer and yes the best would be to update the whole lot but funds are ight and I really can't afford that option.
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Mine is a P&P cage with internal hoop. You'd only need to add the hoop. And I can have my seat all the way back with people in the back. Getting in and out the back is a squeeze though. Mainly because of the rear diagonals.
now thats what I am talking about so what sort of price am i looking at for something like that??? in fact all i would need is the internal hoop and the connectors
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cheers bud will do
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Roll hoop behind driver, holes cut into the rear seat box to allow you to weld on saddles to the chassis, 5mm plate minimum.
Two diagonal cross-braces in the hoop, going right from the saddles to the top corner as much as practicable.
Two diagonal cross braces going from the top of the roll hoop to as far back as practicable in the load area -you may want to shorten them a bit if you intend to carry anything, for MSA compliance I think they need to be directly into the chassis rails, however on my previous cage I built outriggers at the rear of the chassis, very well braced, which seemed to work OK (although I never rolled it
)Anywhere you attach anything to the chassis, plate it up with 5mm beforehand.
Tube can be blue band or CDS, CDS you can get away with 2.64mm wall, BB 3.2, tube at least 1.75" (45mm) diameter.
Does that help?
excelent fancy giving me a hand LOL!
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ok any more for any more????
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one of the meembers mentioned that i needed support in the centre of my cage which i totally agree and I have been toying with various options ie internel then conecting throught the roof either bolting throught the roof or drilling a hole through or the option in the picture below conecting bar from the roof to the sliders I wont be using the rear doors anyway
what are the thoughts out there?
I dismantled the dizzy before instaling it to give it a quick clean, must have put it back together wrong! 
:wacko: 
:huh: 
:unsure: 
:hysterical: 
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My Bobtail project
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
just had to lean her out a bit as she was running very rich my fault setting the edelbrook carb by ear