slm
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Posts posted by slm
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hope they can solve the problem for you.
gave them a call and they tried one in the shop and they found abit tight as well. got it on now good news.bad news is the spacer between bearings on my year.got a new purple one and its giving abit of play when fully tightened. wondering does that spacer really need to be there?
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there are 3 stub axle part numbers depending on the rear axles serial number, but the wheel bearings are a common part, maybe the stub axle diameter is at the maximum allowed makers tolerance & the bearings are at or near the lower end of their makers tolerance, you can see the part numbers/axle serial number info on this page http://www.numcat.ru/landrover/p/31/52628/
who was the supplier of the stub axle & bearings, as they won't fit together, you should talk to your suppling dealer about the problem 7 exchange of parts.
i will give them a call, they are my local independant landrover dealer. the spacer which sits between bearings slips on ok. i had some new older bearings on the shelf which don't want to slide on either. thanks for your speedy reply
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defender 2003. due to a scary experience i have replaced rear wheel bearings and stub axle with new parts. i have gone to lift hub onto stub axle and it won't slide on all the way, maybe an inch. i withdraw hub and rubber seal and bearing race are left on stub axle. i have tried putting bearings on stub axle and don't appear to want to slide. i'm using timken bearings stc4382. any ideas as i'm puzzled. stub axle was new and supplied using vehicle vin number. thanks
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just priceing up what i need, stub axle,drive member,half shaft,bearings,gaskets,seals and i'm nearly hitting £200 so i may go for a set of bearings for the other side at least. will be checking the front asap. thanks again
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thanks everyone for your help and advice. outer bearings or what was left of them was the problem. completely mashed. big locking washer had welded itself to hub. big puller required to get it all off. half shaft splines twisted outer ones. stub axle had it not pretty at all. what i still struggle too believe is that the garage i gave it to didn't notice this big problem after i described what happened. i better start looking for some parts and a good idea to check the other side. thanks again everyone.
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Agreed: Wheel bearing allowing the pads to be pushed back was my thought on reading this and after a recent experience. You need to take the half shaft and brake pads out to really check for play or roughness - mine felt fine (smooth when spun) but had several mm of play which did make the brake travel increase.
thanks. this makes alot of sense when you think about it outside the box.
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I had this on the front right - no early warning signs of bearing failure from noise but the wheel locked solid for about 20 feet at 60mph throwing me the other side of the road into the path of a Fiat Punto
Serious brown trousers moment for me, and the Punto driver!!
I then limped it up the road with no further problems ready to trailer it home.
On inspection the bearing had welded itself to the stub axle!
If the bearing has wear in it allowing the hub to move side to side slightly then the movement can push the pads out giving you spongy brakes until the pads push everything back into the center.
thanks for that, makes alot of sense. i was towing a car trailer and i think that helped me keep control.
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Clutching at straws, But -- how about a tooth or bearing type bit in the diff broken/dropped/chipped off and floating around inside, occasionally getting locked in the crown wheel/internls ? Drop the oil and see what comes out
Then i could be totally wrong though
Sounds a tad scarey for sure, Glad all are okIf none of the above at least you have lovely new diff oils in it now
as i'm down there i will drop the plug and have a look. thanks
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Would it have anything to do with the diff?? If bearing's etc have been checked???
i was wondering along these lines, i will start with basics , i am hopeing to find someone who may have experienced the same. i really hope it is the cheaper basics , thanks for your reply
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got to be a wheel bearing probably partially siezing on the stub axle.
a garage would find that though after i described what happened surely. i will be checking though thanks for reply
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Wheel bearings perhaps?
i was thinking this but no noise or movement when wheels spun cold. i will be checking bearings but its strange brake pedal has gone abit spongy since. thanks for reply
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doing 60mph on dual carridgeway in 110 2002 rear offside wheel locked up, big black skid mark. pulled over and felt wheel no real heat build up. made way to a layby car as normal but then felt a dragging. parked up removed wheel,pads, pushed in pistons easily, replaced pads and wheels drove off got to next layby and felt dragging and a noise. called AA for a lift home. put car in garage explained as above, they cleaned caliper, brakes and passed ok.i took it for drive got heat into brakes and could hear a bad noise from rear. since initial lock up brake pedal is abit squiggy any ideas.thanks
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printing off data from tech files so will have a play at weekend hopefully thanks for your help.
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i will check your suggestions but on all my previous rangerovers when you turn the ignition key to 2nd position you can hear the fuel pump running as though pressurizing the system up. as pressure is reached it then stops. this is why i am concerned as no noise from pump. when i turn engine over pump doesn't run while cranking. any more advice would be great but i will try whats been suggested .thankyou for your help
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i turn the ignition key but fuel pump doesn't run. if i put a direct live to pump it runs. if i push in flap in air flow meter when ignition on fuel pump runs. i replaced engine with a complete engine from a running rangie. this included everything ecu loom the lot. it turns over but won't fire. i have swapped ecu dissy coil relays from old engine and back again. when pump is running you can hear fuel flowing.any ideas would be great thanks
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The first four things that spring to mind:
1. Sedimenter (just take it off and clean it)
2. Fuel filter
3. Lift pump
4. Air leak (Get a clear plastic cheapo filter, doesn't matter what kind and connect it in the diesel return line...look for bubbles while engine running)
will have a look at these at the weekend and see what happens thanks for your time
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while it is misfiring , is it smoking white smoke a lot? if so it could be a fuel blockage (filter etc)
no white smoke power is still there just being restricted
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Is it manual transmission or automatic?
manual
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Is it manual transmission or automatic?
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any ideas please before i start wasteing money. up to 2000rpm the engine is fine my problem is over that in all gears. power is there but its as though its getting blocked. you can set revs to 2500rpm but it will then flactuate between 2500rpm and 2250 rpm up and down constantly. air filter is dry and clean. fuel level is always over 1/4 tank. have added a further 20 litres and added some injecter cleaner no change. had new injecters last year and new head. has 150k on clock. has also a zeus timing gear conversion which has always been noisy and rattley. i did go through some flood water water the other day 3 1/2 ft but no problems. went up a steep hill afterwards so high revs but no problems. it was the morning after. any ideas would be great thanks for your time.
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thats great thanks. will wire the coil up and see what occours. pushed the flap and pump started working. the pump used to start when you turned on the ignition though. hopefully i will get a spark now as well. thanks again
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please can you help.looks like there's alot of knowledgeable people about. i require correct wiring for coil. its a rangie 3.5 efi standard 1987/88 automatic
i have a white wire coming out of the loom on the inner wing which reads the same as battery 12.8 volts
i have 2 wires coming from the disi amp 1 wire is white and black the 2nd wire is white.
i have a black wire which comes from i believe a condenser clamped on coil mounting bolt.
i have a blue and black wire which comes from a relay bolted on the bracket just under the airflow meter.what is relay for?
finally i have a small black resistor about an inch long which has 2 male connector ends .
at present the engine turns over but i have no spark from coil and no feed to fuel pump.fuel pump works with a direct feed from battery.i have checked fuses. i have tried a borrowed coil but get the same. just trying to make sure everything is correct before fitting a new coil to elliminate that part of the system. thankyou for your time and help.
Sounds a tad scarey for sure, Glad all are ok
steering heavy in one direction
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
did you ever work out what it was mines just started doing the same thing . thanks