Mike the Bike
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Posts posted by Mike the Bike
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Thanks chaps for the helpful comments.
I'll continue with the bleeding operation tomorrow, felt too ill to resume today.
Need to shake off a cold before attempting 2nd phase.
Is there a consensus that the proceedure is sound but just put more fluid thru the system, or is it faster to fit an easy bleed one-way valve and simplify the procedure and leave the bleed nipple open on the pedal unstroke too? Thought this might increase the risk of air entering the system.
Cheers
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Hi
Would be grateful of any tips going on the clutch issues i'm experiencing.
Purchased a new slave cylinder & clutch kit from Island 4x4, paid £68 and £99 respectivley and believe they were genuine/ OEM units and supplied to Freelander Specialists in Suffolk.
On getting back the car the clutch bite has moved much lower but was initially acceptable and gear change smooth.
Gear selection has become more dificult in the last 2 weeks since the change over and my wife has complained she got stuck on more that one occasion not being able to select first gear.
I bled the clutch/system, using the following procedure taking care not to allow the reservoir to get below a third full, topping up with DOT 4 fluid when necessary.
I had my son depress the pedal to the floor, I'd release the pressure via the bleed nipple and retighten it,
he would lift the pedal fully back up to the normal position by hooking his toe underneath.
We did this a dozen times, until we'd pushed 250 ml thru the system. The situation now has not improved in fact its a lot worse.
When the engine is off I can change gears without issue and the pedal feels firm from the top. When the engine is running the first inch of pedal travel shows no resistance at all and when fully depressed, gears are near impossible to select. When starting the engine with gear pre-selected she creeps forward unless I'm more or less standing on the clutch pedel.
Am about to go outside and bleed it with the engine running to see if we get more clearance this way.
If I'm unsuccessful has anyone cured anything like this by replacing the master cylinder? The current master is 18 mths old after the original failed spring last year.
Sorry its so long, just wanted to provide enough detail to avoid simple responses.
Thanks
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Hi, last January we had a problem with the freelander engine, since the oil pump went bust and ruined the whole engine, and was beyond repair (td4) we opted for another second hand engine. We replaced the engine and everything worked perfectly, tough after a week or so, the top angled pipe was punctured by the self tapping bracket there is near. The feeling this gives you is, you start driving normally but after some time it loses power and you can hear the boost going out from the pipe. We renewed the pipe and everything went well for a month or so. The new problem is this, you're driving normaly going up in gears, and as you reach 60 to 70 mph the engine loses power, comes like without a turbo, loss of boost or even maybe a rev limiter but I know i've driven it much faster than that, than I go down in gear and not even with a lower gear, can't get the most of its power. So Last Saturday when this happened again, stopped near the side, switched the car off, and started again, and everything came to normal again,
Anyone got an answer before I get the matchsticks?
Luwts
I had a similar problem with our 20003 Td4, drove well for a while then once in a steady state of c3000 rpm on motorway etc stuggled to reach 75/ 80 mph.
I solved this by replacing the PCV, cranckcase breather assembly. The engine note changed and she became quieter and responsive above 3000 rpm.
There is a a thread on the same subject with c 4000 viewings with a recommendation to substitute the LR part for the BWM alternative. The BM part is stated on the thread.
Cost is £43 inc tax approx and an easy diy job that took me with no specilaist tools around 1.5 hrs.
Mike H
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Just realised the other day - I don't get that buzzing noise anymore.
I plugged the EGR back in when I last messed about under the bonnet, so possibly the noise is linked to that...
Mike
Posted the BMW breather off to Oz yesterday afternoon on a 5-day "signed for" deal as agreed, so its probably sitting in a european airport currently :-)
Re your post - I can confirm that the buzzing noise does disappear when the EGR vaccum pipe was reconnected on mine also.
With the new breather fitted it does reappear from time to time in a milder form, and now I've replaced the EGR with a straight thru there's nothing I can do about it, but I'm not bothered. The two most recent mods have transformed her performance, ....so a samll price to pay, the odd fart for a fun drive......
Mike H
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Great pictures, most be fun being able to push her capabilities.
I was ab;e to this year with 30 cm of snow falling overnight in London!
Was one of the few cars on the road the following day, took her for some long 4 wheel power slides in a vacant car park.
Mike
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This happens every time on my Td4, it's quite a strong sound on mine. I asked some folks and they said it was something in the oil system spinning down.
I doubt it's the 'correct' working of the crankcase valve, because mine hasn't been cleaned out, probably ever. That's a new thing I've just learned about and will look at it this week.
You mention cleaning the crankcase breather AND the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), I thought these were the same thing? Or are they separate parts contained within that same asembly?
Hi
Not sure how to get to my control panel to mail you directly.
Just confirmed funds are in the Paypal account and thought I'd ask one of my lads to check for you re postage to Perth from the UK.
Hold on to your hat,........for the actual package dimensions & assuming a weight of 300 --330 grams, delivery in 7 days will be £30.99 or within 42 days is £26.99. Need another £13 minimum at least if I do it all at cost.
What assumptions did you make for a £10 postage fee?
We got our costs form the Parcel Force Uk website.
Will await your instructions.
Mike
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Hi folks, i have a 53 reg td4 with 96k on it and has a full service history.I bought it not long ago with the yellow engine management light on the dash, the symtoms of the vehicle fault is very sluggish performance and using excessive fuel - 35-45 miles from £10 of diesel. Iv since had it plugged in to the diagnostic reader which read; P1E30 - Boost control actuator malfunction". Now, i have since renewed the boost control solenoid valve (at a cost of £80) which didnt clear the fault, i dont want to keep throwing money at it so if anyone has any ideas as to what this little gremlin could be i would be really grateful.
Had no warning lights when our 2003 Td4 was playing up but found an 8mm vaccum hose leading to the EGR activation solenoid was ruptured/ worn thru.
This appeared to affect the turbo boost performance also, a similar vaccum pipe sneaks across the injectors terminating on the turbo so the entire vaccum circuit was compromised by this leak, though the brakes required no extra effort.
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Hi, I'm interested in doing this mod, but the price at the 'only' local BMW dealer is unbelievable!
Notwithstanding they don't stock it and I would be waiting either way, I think it would be much cheaper if someone in the UK were to buy the 11127799224 assembly and post it to me.
Anyone willing to help out a fellow freeby operator? I can re-imburse you by paypal....
Hi, back from Europe, have you sourced the part yet?
I can provide the URL for the BMW dealership I sourced mine from. Cost £42 GBP.
Mike
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Just followed your thread and I'd recommend the EGR bypass mod.
I bought the version recommended by "tuning diesels" and signiuficantly more grunt noticed, even with same fuel map.
Mike
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Hi, I'm interested in doing this mod, but the price at the 'only' local BMW dealer is unbelievable!
Notwithstanding they don't stock it and I would be waiting either way, I think it would be much cheaper if someone in the UK were to buy the 11127799224 assembly and post it to me.
Anyone willing to help out a fellow freeby operator? I can re-imburse you by paypal....
Just posted my story after changing mine today, ( the rasberry post..) cost in the UK for the whole unit is 42 GBP.
Not sure of postage hit to Oz, box is 20x15x6 cm and weighs about 180g.
Would like to help, ....am of to europe for 3 weeks tomorrow, will look up this thread when I return.
Mike
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This happens every time on my Td4, it's quite a strong sound on mine. I asked some folks and they said it was something in the oil system spinning down.
I doubt it's the 'correct' working of the crankcase valve, because mine hasn't been cleaned out, probably ever. That's a new thing I've just learned about and will look at it this week.
You mention cleaning the crankcase breather AND the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), I thought these were the same thing? Or are they separate parts contained within that same asembly?
Just incase you decide to attempt cleaning the PCV, I tried this just after Xmas, popped out the felt oil/ vaour separator and soacked it in white spirit over night and flushed thru next day. Cleaned the valve diaphram and reassembled.
She went like a dream the once refitted, sounded quieter, smooth at tick-over and the power between 2 and 3.5 k noticably improved.
In the last 2 months I've been posting here about variable performance issues, suspecting fuel pressure (sensor) and then found a vacuum pipe leak which made a big difference when sorted but everything was not well becasue at 3k rpm she got noisey and held back, well I just found my answer.
Found a thread here recommending the replacement of the LR spec PCV for one currently used by BMW when the M47 engine is installed in their 320d/ 520d saloons. Purchased one today and fitted 2 hrs ago,............magic............like a new engine. I can only conclude that my attempt at cleaning the felt filter was a limited success because within a few months she was misbehaving again. Also the good news is that the BMW part is cheaper and does not need further maintenance becasue there is no filter to clog, simply a couple of chambers. the science of which I've yet to understand. but this option will cost you less over a 24k stretch because you'll have had to change the LR filter twice (according to their latest service recommendation) @£26 a pop (uk prices). Looking foward to driving to work tommorrow for the first time in months.
The parts guy at BMW looked at UK stock movements for this part and revealed that across the UK, the company sold 600, yes thats 600 last MONTH, demonstrating that many other BMW owners are having the same perfomance problems with their 2 litre diesels. So save a few dollars and enjoy a better perfomnace with the latest spec PCV, forget cleaning iit - IMO.
Cheers
Mike
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This happens every time on my Td4, it's quite a strong sound on mine. I asked some folks and they said it was something in the oil system spinning down.
I doubt it's the 'correct' working of the crankcase valve, because mine hasn't been cleaned out, probably ever. That's a new thing I've just learned about and will look at it this week.
You mention cleaning the crankcase breather AND the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), I thought these were the same thing? Or are they separate parts contained within that same asembly?
Correct, two components within the same assembly, interestingly had this happen about a year ago when i last ran the car with the EGR valve deactivated, also showed much white smoke but reactivating the EGR solved both problems.
White smoke issue i beleive was related to blocked PCV, now thats clean no smoke visible and engine noise reduced.
Cheers
Mike
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Spent last Sunday cleaning out the inlet manaifold of the Td4 and reassembled torquing all screws correctly.
Just tanked it down the A3 to work , torquey and smoth up to 3 k revs then gets loud and rough over 3k rpm.
Arrived at work and when I switched off FRAN the Freelander blew me a rasberry, okay a light buzzing sound that slowly disappears, as if pressure (or a vacuum) is being equalised.
Could this be the cranckase pressure valve working correctly?
Came from the right hand side of the engine (viewed from front) near vacuum reservoir. EGR is deactivated via plugged blue vaccum hose and crankcase breather cleaned out with white spirit along with PCV about 3k miles ago.
Ideas anyone...........?
Mike
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Try doing a search for Simbar seem to remember they do on on a Freelander spare wheel.
Cheers
Mike
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The genuine freelander bike carrier fits behind the spare wheel and pokes out through the centre cap hole.
If you get one of these just remember to cover the hooky bits some pipe lagging and gaffer tape (true land rover style
) otherwise your bikes crossbar will get scratched to buggery! 
Hope this helps
Dan
Thanks for the tip.........
Mike
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Looking for a more practical solution than that used in recent years where we're mounted the bikes fully assebled on the roof. Makes the ferry trip fun with head to toe metric of c 2.9m, forces us into the HGV sections but French super market car parks are out of bounds, as are some of the autoroute toll booths. Luckily have always remembered the height issue well before dragging down an over-head gantry............
Am looking for a bike rack to fit over the rear wheel but most have a warning - Not suitable for Freelander, probably due to the third brake light pod or limited the rear wiper clearance.
Any recommendations from real world experience gratefully received.
Mike
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BH, those rear pressures are way too high!!
Most tyre manufacturers say no more than 20% higher. Putting it up that high would suggest that you are possibly overloading the car.
I ran the last Michelin set until 50k miles at 32 psi without the middle of the tread balding and at 30 ish psi the handling when loaded was absolutely c**p.
Quite frustrating that the recommendations appear contary to common sence and practical experince hence the reason for the post.
Thanks for your interest ............
Mike
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About to venture into European Alps with 4 mountain bikes and 2 young adults in the rear and the question arises again "What tyre pressure should I be using when FULLY laden?" The manual I have is not helpful.
It claims the magic number to be 30 psi regardless of application/ load/ speed, but the first year we took FRAN (The Freelander) away observing this ridiculas advice we lurched around corners and she was so slow to respond to steering adjustments it was frightening on winding roads and fuel consumption was well below my expectation.
Last year I opted for a 34psi front and 46 psi rear when laden and reverted my usual to 33 psi front and rear once we'd arrived and unpacked - tyres cold of course. This proved successful from both handling and fuel perspectives.
I came to these numbers after matching the rolling radius/ rim to road without the use of a tape measure. :-)
Bearing in mind the LR rule of thumb re fitting new (ie larger circumference) tyres to the rear would seem to indicate that there is less strain placed in the IRD if the rears are pumped up higher than the fronts as a general rule when fully laden.
Anyone out there of different/ similar opinion?
Cheers
The Michelins I have on now state a 50 psi max rating
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About to venture into European Alps with 4 mountain bikes and 2 young adults in the rear and the question arises again "What tyre pressure should I be using when FULLY laden?" The manual I have is not helpful.
It claims the magic number to be 30 psi regardless of application/ load/ speed, but the first year we took FRAN (The Freelander) away observing this ridiculas advice we lurched around corners and she was so slow to respond to steering adjustments it was frightening on winding roads and fuel consumption was well below my expectation.
Last year I opted for a 34psi front and 46 psi rear when laden and reverted my usual to 33 psi front and rear once we'd arrived and unpacked - tyres cold of course. This proved successful from both handling and fuel perspectives.
I came to these numbers after matching the rolling radius/ rim to road without the use of a tape measure. :-)
Bearing in mind the LR rule of thumb re fitting new (ie larger circumference) tyres to the rear would seem to indicate that there is less strain placed in the IRD if the rears are pumped up higher than the fronts as a general rule when fully laden.
Anyone out there of different/ similar opinion?
Cheers
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The clutch lines from a freelander have a "push fit" between master and slave cilinder. So i guess for clutches it is ok, however for brakes, no idea.
Sorry for hi-jacking the thread - am about to fit a new clutch master cylinder and noticed that there is an LR tool advised to separate the push fit connetion. Is it possible to separate the two without the tool and without doing ireparable damage to the slave pipe connector?
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For those interested in the out come, I did replace the Td4 oil filter while she had a full sump without mishap. Took precautions and packed out the whole area with paper towels but the pot drained normally as if the sump was empty.
What I'm trying to do, based on all info available, is reduce engine wear and keep engine as clean as possible for min of hassle.
Apparently new oil inceases engine wear until 3k miles point is passed, diesels kick out much carbon and I want to keep the oil as clean as possible with an oil filter change mid-term of the 10 - 15k miles I propose leaving the Mobil 1 in for. Cost and wear rates will be half that of 7.5k miles Kwik Fit oil change option.
The other option is for a fund to be started to finance a trial of the idea via regular oil analysis every 1k miles and I'll publish results to those who subscribe.........
Drop me a line if you're interested and I'll start a new thread.
Mike
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Hi Mike if it is the one you describe that takes about 30 to 40 minutes disconnect on the pedal and take out from the engine bay side. regards
FIREATER
Have decided it is the master cylinder as fluid is not being lost, just changes level with pedal depression, couldn't get the resevoir cap off completely to observe it properly.
Have seen on RAVE the need for a tool to disconnect the two hydraulic pipe sections. Don't want to risk damaging it by forcing it. There's a small black plastic collar that sits at the joint, if that is pushed back fully so it disappears practically into the connector and the two pipes pulled apart, would you expect them to part company safely without the use of the tool?
Mike
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For those interested in the out come, I did replace the Td4 oil filter while she had a full sump without mishap. Took precautions and packed out the whole area with paper towels but the pot drained normally as if the sump was empty.
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Hi Mike if it is the one you describe that takes about 30 to 40 minutes disconnect on the pedal and take out from the engine bay side. regards
FIREATER
Thanks but I would expect to be able to find the fluid being lost from the master cylinder either on the ground, dripping down inside engine bay or under the carpet by the drivers foot well, but all these clues to it being the master are not observed. As no fluid loss is observable I'm lead to think that lost fluid is collecting inside near the release bearing. What are your thoughts re fluid visibility...................?
) otherwise your bikes crossbar will get scratched to buggery! 
Clutch Issues
in Freelander Forum
Posted
Here's an update.
How much bleeding should one reasonably expect to do?
Have now put 450ml thru the clutch hydraulic circuit via the reservoir on the master cylinder using an easy bleed one way valve and she's showing a marginally higher biting point, very marginal though and still not "normal" gear selection possible. This time I flushed it thru faster not bothering to close the bleed nipple on the upstroke of the pedal.
The pedal is still firm with engine off and "floppy" for the first 25% of the throw with engine on. This bit I can't understand, the clutch isn't engine/ vacuum assisted so why should a completely isolated passive system behave differently depending on the engine being on/off.
Have just seen in RAVE manual that a serviceable clutch plate has 7.5 mm of friction material. If a plate had more, say 8 mm as I believe the one I bought had, perhaps the throw of the slave cylinder is too short to disengage the drive ewquired to provide sufficient clearance to enable smooth gear selection?
Any thoughts/ comment welcome.
Mike