johnseedee
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Posts posted by johnseedee
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I recently fitted one of these. The outside diameter of the tube is about 70mm (measured 70.5mm, but it has a thick "plastic" coating). Do you need the inner as well? If yes, then I'll have to take the top off. A good quality kit in my opinion - but it is the only one I've ever fitted!
John
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Many thanks for the comprehensive reply. I see what you mean. Thanks for taking the trouble to explain it to me.
I am having a bad year for smoke and bad running. Earlier in the year the Defender failed the ITV (Spanish MOT) on the emmisions test. It turned out that the timing tensioner (300tdi) had failed and the belt had slipped. I had that sorted (new belt etc.) and passed the test, but a couple of months later the running deteriorated so much that it had to be taken by breakdown truck to my local LR expert. It was just before a long holiday, but he checked the injectors, found them coked up, put a good set in and all seemed well. The only problem I then had was white smoke when the engine was cold. He fixed that by tweaking the timing. Now the Defender was running well - no smoke and plenty of power. Then last week it was time for another ITV test - 6 monthly here for 4x4s over 10 years! So, to make sure it would pass the emissions test I added some MOLY "Stop" to the fuel. It passed the test - better than the opacity reading last time, but I now have whitish smoke, with excessive black when working hard. I wish that I hadn't added the MOLY stuff, because it is probably giving confusing symptoms. I am now hoping that by flushing out the tanks (by using up the fuel) and using good quality diesel and an injector cleaner I may get away with not having to switch injectors again. Because the engine is running reasonably I may be able to "drive" the problem away! But, perhaps I should just take a look at an injector to see if they are partially coked?
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You definatly know when your lift pump is on its way out - amongst many symptoms some are, doesn't rev, lots of black smoke, uneven iddleing, engine "hunting"...
I belive its as crwoody described.
I also have a smoking problem and am working my way through the possibilities.... but, how does a failing lift pump lead to lots of black smoke? I thought that black smoke was caused by incompletely burnt fuel/excessive fuel, but a failing lift pump should give you less fuel shouldn't it? I am not doubting the statement. My understanding of what's going on is clearly over-simplistic!
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I'm quite interested in this thread as I'm replacing my suspension too.
So there are the ones for the front?
I can't seem to find the part numbers for the 90 standard rear springs
NRC9448/9 are 110 HD front, 130 standard front AND 90 standard rear.
John
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Has anyone got part no's for the exact springs mentioned? OE versions that is, all I seem to turn up is 'like OE' aftermarket tat from the places I would trust
.The idea of 110 fronts and HD 90 rears sounds ideal, esp. with a roof rack and a bit of loading. I guess progressive spring's have to be a compromise somewhere but if your just towing, loading up or down lanes it's going to be a lot better than 90 stock springs.
110 fronts are NRC8044 and NRC8045. HD 90 rears are NRC9462 and NRC9463.
John
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For the fronts, i'd fit the D110 fronts (which are the same as Disco rears) as they're progressive springs, so should provide a decent ride, but will firm up when loaded/cornering etc.
The stock 90 rear springs are already pretty heavy duty things. I'd be tempted to use them, but if you decide that you want it stiffer, then the next option is Landrover D90 HD springs, which as above are progressive so will give a better ride than a rock hard spring from some of the aftermarkets.
I second the D110 fronts and D90 HD rears. I fitted these a couple of yeas ago and am very pleased with the balance of firm ride on-road with plenty of flexibility off-raod.
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Also, have a look at www.biotuning.co.uk/Home.htm . He knows what he is talking about and has a lot of experience. I run my 300Tdi Defender on SVO using a 2 tank system.
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I have lost power to the in-tank fuel pump on my 1991 V8 carb. 130. A friend suggested that there is a safety circuit which cuts power to the fuel pump when there is a loss of oil pressure and this turns out to be correct. Disconnecting the oil pressure switch restores power to the pump, but there must be another power circuit (perhaps using a time-delay relay?) that allows power through to the power when starting the engine and before the oil pressure has built up.
I have the generic wiring diagram for the V8 Defender but it only shows a direct ignition-switched feed to the fuel pump.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram covering this version of the fuel pump circuit so that I can locate the problem. I have all (and I mean ALL) of the dashboard electrics exposed at the moment so I should be able to find the fault once I know which part of the "rats nest" to follow!
I know that at least 1 of the relays below the fuses forms part of the circuit (the second from the left), but have now run out of ideas. Can anyone help, please?
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Cooper Discoverer ST-C were very recently listed by neumaticos-online.com in Spain, but they have now disappeared from their listing. There is a UK branch of this company or franchise called mytyres.co.uk. It might be worth asking them.
John
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Snorkel Tube Diameter
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Ah - I see, but the standard mushroom top fits on a rubber collar of 77-78mm diameter with a metal clamp. Something like a Donaldson cyclonic filter would probably fit. Have a look at the installation instructions for the LR STC 50265 and you will find some diagrams.
John