Pat
-
Posts
34 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Pat
-
-
the heater box itself would fit but i was thinking of how to plumb it in as i think there was an "extra" water feed via an extra pipe on the thermostat housing on a series three but not sure if such an item exists for a 200 tdi. How is a defender winterised?
-
will the arctic heaters fit a 200tdi in a defender???if so how??
-
Mine did the same, got louder and louder. i took out the box and the reverse gear had badly chipped teeth. new gear and it was fine.
-
Yes you can, mine is like this. series three clutch and bellhousing with a 11A mainbox. Just be careful though as if i remember correctly the early ones (2A)had a smaller layshaft bearing at the front and so wouldnt fit. If your 2A layshaft sits in the front bearing ok it should be fine. Mine works a treat.
-
i have been looking at using an old air con compressor to provide compressed air for use on the vehicle. Just wondering how many of you have done this and how has the device been connected. The disco engine vehicles look alot easier but how has it been done for those with defender engines as the pulley systems are different especially those of you with 200 tdi. I have had a look at the articles but more information would be appreciated.
-
Just curious if this is possible with out a lot of modification. I have looked at the difference between the SIII and Defender bulkheads and to me it doesnt look like it would work, at least not the bottom part.
Thanks!
i have fitted a series three dash to a TD5 bulkhead thats in my series three. the holes etc are in the right place. The only thing i had remove was the wiper motor mount on the bulkhead but that i doubt would be a problem on yours.
-
Thanks for the reply - I have the haynes manual which I have studying but I'm just feeling a bit overwhelmed!
I'm not really sure what half the bits are.
Page 68 of the haynes manual shows an exploded view (fig 6.1) of the bits in my photo - but it only shows one detent spring and it's position is vague - is there any more detail anywhere that I've missed?
It's all been a huge learning curve so far!
If its crunching in selecting 4th to 3rd, then the syncro unit is worn out. the springs wont make a difference. Its the syncro itself that will be worn. Its a common thing for these to wear out, you will probably need to replace it .
-
I fitted parabolics to my old 109, and was very pleased with the difference.
Les.
thanks for the reply, what make were they???
-
Hi Pat
I have not fitted them to my SIII but all the feed back here in NZ is that you might as well fit standed springs and new shock to your truck, as even with the parabolics you have to fit new shok's and the old leafys are cheaper here but it is OTY..
Thanks for the reply. i have had heavy duty 8 leaf springs on mine for a long time about 15 years or so. they have been great but are now knackered. Over here i am struggling to find a supplier of springs that people can recommend. Some have had very bad press.
Has any one used GME springs?11 standard leaf or parabolic ones, are they any good??
-
has any one fitted parabolic springs to a LWB heavy station wagon. which ones are any good? which ones are to avoid? are they worth the exra money??? I was considering fitting normal leaf springs as mine are knackered but due to all the negative press i have my doubts. any ideas or comments???
-
Is the series seat base ethe same as the defender ones at least as far as the transmission tunnel is concerned. Basically i have a td5 bulkhead which at present has no mods to the transmission tunnel area. I was wondering if i could fit a defender transmission cover while using the defender bulkhead but retaining the series seat base. Any ideas??
-
cheers
pat
-
Has anyone got photos of the proper layout of a series three clutch pipe going from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder
pat
-
I am in the middle of fitting a defender bulkhead. So far so good. For those of you who have done this conversion what have you done about the transmission cover. Will a defender one fit the series three seat base?? IF not are there any easy options. Are all the defender tunnels the same?
Pat
-
Dot 3 or 4 should be fine. Dont use DOT5
-
Tahnks for the information. All i need now is a heater unit
Pat
Ok in depth techy style write up!Remove entire old series heater and blower assembly. (RTFM if you don't know how to do it). Also remove heater inlet vent from n/s wing. Remove n/s mud shield from under wing.
Acquire entire defender heater/blower assembly. There are two types (one has the coolant inlet pipes straight, one has them kink at 90 degrees towards the ground) otherwise I believe they're all the same.
You need to trim the top off the n/s bulkhead support bracket as it will foul the heater. You also need to trim a little off the return lip on the inner wing. I just trial fitted and trimmed a little at a time until it would go in. Top two bolts line up with the series ones so do them up. You need to drill through the bottom two holes and bolt it to the foot well.
Re-connect coolant hoses. IIRC the standard series ones will still fit.
I simply jammed the flap that controls the airflow open (on the defender there is a third cable attached to this which goes to the fan speed control also) as I didn't see the need for it. The hot/cold control cable needs to be a defender one as the series one is too short. Easy enough to swap over.
I had to cut a hole in the mud shield to clear the bottom of the heater blower and then re-fitted it. I also then refitted the wing mounted grille. (it just fits, but could do with being slimmed down or even blanked off as its redundant.
I found the heater sits very very close to the o/s carb elbow (mines a V8) so I clearanced the heater box with my favourite tool!
You could fit the defender plastic gubbins and the wing top mounted grille, but I didn't bother - I simply put a grille over the air intake to stop too much cr@p getting in it!
The only thing that may cause a problem is if you're still using the standard series rod type throttle linkage. Mines cable operated so the rods are long gone.
Wiring wise you'll find there are three wires coming out of the unit IIRC. Theres a green or a green and yellow or something like that (the colours tie up with the series wiring) so just connect them to the series wiring. The third wire on the heater (purple IIRC) is a +ve in feed. Connect to and ignition +ve feed.
You then need to re-wire the dash mounted switch as the series switches the positive power, and the defender switches the earth. Remove the positive feed into the fan switch and instead connect an earth feed to the switch.
Your fan should now run the correct way!
I think that's it.....
Jon
-
how have people over come the permanent 4wd of the lt77? with a non cv axle?
-
Better off without them . I had them on mine when i bought it. Gave nothing but oil leaks. were a bit of a pain to get off to adjust wheel bearing etc. Gave no difference in mpg. Better to use the stand adrd flanges.
Pat
-
I am in the middle of fitting a defender bulkhead to my S3. Looking at the heater matrix which is past its best i was thinking of fitting a defenderone. It will obviously fit my defender bulkhead but are they any better than the series one. Has any ofitted one to a series before are the controls the same as the series one and which defender one do i get get. I seem to remember that they have two different matrices for the heater boxes. Are there any benefits for a particular type.
PAt
-
I have a Defender bulkhead on my 1970 88".
I could go into detail here, but it's much easier to point you at the relevent page of MY WEBSITE.
There IS an issue with clearance on the drop arm, and with the positioning of the pedal boxes. Series pedal boxes will bolt straight on, so I can't see that using defender pedal boxes will help in any way. You could fit a defender steering column, but that will give you a raft of new problems trying to fit the defender steering box to the front crossmember. Far easier to weld a fresh plate over the pedal box holes and re cut them in the correct position for a series.
Cheers, Nick
This is what i had thought , so thanks for the confirmation. Do you have the dimensions for the cut out for the drop arm clearance section. I take it the pedal boxes just need re positioning to tthe left or right? Do you have the measurements for the positions of the bolt holes for the pedal boxes. Was it as simple as using the series foot well as a template?
nice site by the way
cheers
pat
-
yes it will but it will fit further back towards the wings than standard
Cheers for that, i am in need for a winch bumper and was considering using one from a defender as there seems to be more choice. Its for a warn 8274.
-
Will a defender bumper fit a series three?
-
I've recently had a problem with my 90 due to corrosion of the fuel filler pipe.
After a trip to Belgium for some off roading and the drive back along extremely wet roads my normally very well behaved 200tdi began to die at tick over.
Having sorted out the corroded filler pipe, cleaned out the fuel tank of mud and contaminated diesel, replaced the lift pump and filter the engine does run better but it won't run at "normal" tick over. I'm also loosing top end speed which I guess equates to reduction in power. On start up the engine is more smokey than usual - the smoke is white not blue.
Before I book it into my local LandRover experts I'd like some advise as to what to look at next?
If the fuel filter was doing its job then that should have stopped the crud coming through anyway. what the milieage it may need new injectors or worse the pump. Before you you anything though check the pump timing is correct.
-
Thanks the pictures will come in handy
Pat
Split charge or battery?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
11.1v sounds like a dud battery. what the voltage at the battery with the engine running? it should be 14.4v.