[Intermittent loss of power P38 Diesel 1995]

Intermittent loss of power P38 Diesel 1995

Hi all,

Any ideas or help would be very much appreciated, on my much 1995 P38 Diesel.

I have a intermittent loss of power, as like running out of fuel, suddenly your driving nicely a long and lose all power at the throttle peddle? Cars still ticks over, and if I wait a while some times it just comes back and all it well until the next time it goes, I have just change the throttle actuator on the throttle peddle at the cost of £250? As I thought it might be that, by after fitting it I had only driven about 15 miles and back came the fault, so I guess there goes £250 replacing a part that was ok? I wonder could it be the ECU. And if it is, could I just replace it for a second hand one? Or could it be the faulty pump? Not sure what make it is on mine but the throttle actuator was Bosch just wonder if any has the same thing happen to them or knows any else that has

Many thanks Mike

[Range Rover Diesel P38]

Many thanks for your reply Mike

If, as above, it could be the temp sensors then a worthwhile first move is to check and clean the connections at the sensors. The sensors work on resistance so a dirty connection can cause problems.

Steve

[Range Rover Diesel P38]

Many thanks for your in-put I sepent loads on restoring my P38 and up grades, couldn't sell her so I guess I will just have to see if one of my local garages can have a look at her? there are a few around that do 4x4 landies, and to replace the car would most likey cost more then fixing her many thanks Mike

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Bottom Line, you need a recommended local specialist who doesn't regard 38As as the devils spawn, with the owner as someone whose wallet is ripe for the picking. Just because someone is 'Land Rover' doesn't mean they like working on 38As. Approach your search with those points in mind and you will be more likely to have success.

I can't help with knowledge local to your area.

On these models the actuator or Throttle Position Switch is a substantial bit of kit that exudes quality. BMW branded IIRC.

It sits just above the pedal, so is not subject to the heat and vibration of the engine bay. These factors make it as different as it's possible to be, while sharing the same name, as the TPS on the V8 petrol engine.

With an analogue meter it can be tested for smooth and uninterrupted output.

A bit expensive to change on a whim.

When the engine dies to tickover, and won't respond, is this at speed (say 50 to 80 mph) or is it as you slow down to a roundabout, traffic lights, or other junction? Do you see the Engine light come on, if only for half a second? Depending on year, this is either a pictogram of an injector spaying fuel, or a sideways viewed outline of an engine block.

I'd say the glow plug issue is separate to the 'dies to tickover' issue. The engine ECU is thinking the coolant is warm, so it's not switching the plug timer on. While an ECU problem is not impossible, the ECU may be responding correctly to the input it's seeing from the temperature sensor. IE, it's a sensor or wiring fault, not an ECU fault. There are two sensors in the cylinder head, one reports coolant temperature to the engine ECU, the other reports to the BECM for the engine temperature gauge.

I don't recall, without checking, exactly which is which. It's been a while since I changed one of them in my car. I know which one I changed, but can't recall why :-)

Any other problems with the car, which might not be related, but give a sense of vehicle history?

Year of manufacture? Manual or Automatic gearbox?

Ignoring my initial comment, are you inclined to have a go yourself? That isn't a stupid move, but it could be an uphill climb, steep at times, and you may have to pay money for your training, by replacing parts that don't cure the problem.

Whether you DIY, or want more knowledge when talking to your specialist, you need the RAVE CD, which contains both the Electrical and the Mechanical manuals.

Google 'Green Oval, manual' and download for free the CD Image. You or someone you know, will have to convert that Image File to a working CD, which I suggest you copy complete into a new folder on your Hard Drive, then create a short cut to the file RAVE.EXE in the Folder you just created.

If you are to benefit from this work there is some time to be spent reading and familiarising yourself with the contents of RAVE.

If you don't have the time or inclination to get immersed in the car then follow my first advice, or sell it as is, while the faults are intermittent and you have the possibility of selling a vehicle that works at the time of sale (and may your sleep be continually interrupted by sudden cramps :-)).

Cheers.

[Range Rover Diesel P38]

Range Rover P38 Diesel Lost power at the peddle?

Hi all I'm a new member and would like some help,

Has anyone come across this problem? I have on a few occasions lost all power at the peddle? Engine ticks over OK but when you put your foot down to accelerate there is no power, and sometimes it just comes back, I can go a couple of weeks all being well and then it goes again?

Also I have another fault that seems to be also intermittent now? The heater glow light on the dash wont come on, and when this happen the glow plug don't work making start the car nearly impossible just wonder if anyone else has come across this problem.

I have been told with regards the accelerator it might be the actuator?

Any ideas of advice would be appreciated many thanks