Lighthouse_jim
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Posts posted by Lighthouse_jim
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It also depends on what grade of stainless steel you are using. We use marine/food grade 316, or sometimes 304 at work, which drills quite well with HSS bits. I did pick up a piece of offcut once of unknown grade. It would cut easily with a hacksaw, but drilling was impossible.
Jim
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I'm not sure that paraffin will touch it. I'm sure I was told Red Hermetite for oil, Golden Hermetite for fuel and Green Hermetite for water. I can't say that I've ever seen green Hermetite though!
Acetone (pinch some of SWMBO's nail polish remover) is quite good for that sort of thing.
Jim
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Check the jump leads are good. I had a set where the cable corroded where it joined the clamp. That also resulted in a hot jump lead and no starting power. I took the cable off and remade the joint and BINGO, it worked!
Jim
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I used to be with the AA, but got so fed up with the response times that 13 years ago I joined RAC instead. Their response times were noticeably quicker, and we've never had a problem with them.
Jim
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Noooooo
Ammeters support "smoke theory" voltmeters don't
Ammeters measure the amount of smoke travelling through the wires, and indicate this to the operator by the amount of smoke they emit when something shorts out, thus providing an immediate and obvious scented visual warning to the driver that something is amiss - far more attention grabbing than some boring voltmeter needle wafting back and forth
The two meters give different information. An ammeter will tell you if the charging system is working, or if you're draining the battery faster than the alternator can charge. A voltmeter indicates the state of the battery - it will drop as the battery is discharged, but it's slower to show than an ammeter.
Fit both and be permanently worried, or neither and live in blissful ignorance
!Jim
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Thanks for the help. I finally got fed up and really pulled at it. It turned out that there was a couple of links of chain attached to the bottom (presumably to stop it from coming right out and being lost). The links must have got jammed and stopped it from lifting. Presumably the rest of the chain is swimming about in the bottom of the tank!
Anyway, the filter is now clean, and I can pour the biodiesel in without it taking five minutes for half a gallon.
Cheers,
Jim.
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anyone know of any good chrome platers in the hampshire region?
I used Hampshire Electroplaters in Empress Road, Southampton a couple of years ago. They were VERY slow (due to a problem with one of their baths, I think), but the quality was good, and the price reasonable.
Jim
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Yes, the maximum I can lift is about half an inch from fully down. It originally lifted as I turned it, which is what made me think it was a bayonet fitting, but never more than half an inch.
Jim
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This is correct. With the high-flow diesel pumps in Australia I need to pull mine out every time I fill up. If you haven't pulled it out in a long time if may take a bit of jiggling/forcing to free it the first time.
Jiggling, forcing, yanking - it still won't come out. It goes round and round, and lifts about half an inch, but at this rate I shall resort to taking the whole assembly out. I have thought about just whacking something through the gauze
, but given the muck that it has retained, it's probably serving a useful purpose.Jim
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Thanks guys,
Mark - yes, it does make sense. Being able to lock it in the half-way position will be useful as well, to allow the last gallon to be drained out of a jerry-can. I'll give it another try when it's not raining.
Jim
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They're missing for me as well,
Jim
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Can any body help? I want to get the gauze filter out of the filler neck on my SWB SIII. There are various lumps of gunge floating around in it, and when I try to put cold biodiesel in, it's too thick to flow through. I can turn the filter through 90 degrees clockwise, which brings it up by about half an inch, but then it stops. Is it just a sticking bayonet type fitting, or am I missing something?
Any suggestions welcome, especially helpful ones,
Jim
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I was down in Penzance on Friday morning with work. A little light drizzle, nothing much. Set out at about 9am to head back to Swansea. All fine 'til we hit Bodmin, when the traffic ground to a halt. Fortunately, I was in the works 4x4 (not a Land Rover
!), so engaged 4WD and continued. The main problem was the hills. Artics were losing traction on the way up, and I think were wary of jack-knifing on the way down. The problem was compounded by roadworks which had reduced the dual carriageway to single lanes.After two stops of about an hour and a half each, with half a mile between them, the road cleared, just as the radio announced that it was 'a serious incident' and the military were going to be called in.
Finally got home about 8pm - twice as long as the journey usually takes.
Jim
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Secondary question; has anyone blocked off the radiator filler cap (solding a brass plate say) to use with an expansion tank - any reason why that won't work?
Don't forget that the radiator cap has a pressure relief valve in it. It maintains a pressure in the system (marked on the cap usually 9-13 psi) to increase the boiling point of the coolant. It seals on both the small lip inside the neck and the large flange at the top. If you seal the top flange only, the system will pressurise the expansion bottle. If this hasn't got a radiator type cap, it will allow the coolant to boil at a lower temperature.
Jim
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Well, I may not be the chattiest, but I thought I'd come and join everyone else.
Jim
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, but given the muck that it has retained, it's probably serving a useful purpose.
!), so engaged 4WD and continued. The main problem was the hills. Artics were losing traction on the way up, and I think were wary of jack-knifing on the way down. The problem was compounded by roadworks which had reduced the dual carriageway to single lanes.
LR's parents company have done it......
in International Forum
Posted
Depends on whether it's US or Imperial gallons. At about 4/5ths of an Imp gallon, 33 miles per US gallon equals nearly 40 miles per Imperial gallon. Looks a little more respectable.
Jim