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andrew69

Getting Comfortable
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Posts posted by andrew69

  1. I was in a similar situation a few months back.

    I'm not sure what's wrong, but it sounds like major head gasket issue to me, or maybe cylinder side wall has gone through. Don't know why else water would be in the sump, but it doesn't sound good. It may even have seized, does it turn by hand?

    Keep stripping the engine but it sounds like you'll need a new block at least, fortunately they are not expensive; I managed to get a complete engine for £50.

    If you do get a new engine make sure it is as similar as possible to what you have, 3MB or 5MB, and if 3MB imperial or metric or you'll have a lot of hassle with flywheels, different sized bolts etc.

    The other option is an engine transplant, say a 200TDi or whatever, depends on your skill level. What I would say is that (apart from needing an engine hoist, and needing to be respectful of it's weight) just swapping an engine out for the same one should be cheap (certainly less then £200, probably less then £100) and easy.

    I do actually have a late, 2.25 diesel 5MB block spare. It's OK but it's missing one piston, another is damaged, the head has dropped a valve, and I don't have many ancillaries but if it does turn out you need a new block it may be what you need. It does have a crank, end caps, flywheel, bell housing and some other bits. It needs new main and con-rod bearings. You can have it for free if you take it away, it's in the High Wycombe area but let me know as I was planning to scrap it this weekend.

    thanks for your advice, doubt i will be in a position to say yes to your kind offer this weekend. plus in manchester so might be a bit to far. seen on ebay 2 engines for 85 both three bear, like mine. getting them back is my next problem.

    wish i had my landy!.

  2. hi my land rover 2.25 diesel engine has totally let go. temp whent through the roof then pipe blew from heater matrix fixed pipe re filled with water started again the when after few hours tried to top up again it threw out all water and would not turn over. towed home by stan the super man.

    came to drop all oils and water, water poured out of the sump first. weekend will carry on stripping engine. what the best that could be wrong or is a new engine needed. want to keep on road 9months mot/tax and paid in full for insurance so point in cancelling that. its in good condition and spent a lot of time painting and adding bling. but as most people these days not got any money!.

  3. If you have the 2.5 N/A in a S2, then whoever did it, plumbed the engine into the original oil bath filter - designed for the 2.25. Nothing wrong with that in itself, but it's more convenient to install the paper element filter. You can cut the oil bath support bracket off the end of the battery tray and install a paper element filter in it's place. There'll be some pipework to fiddle about with though.

    Les.

    hityping error its a 2.25 diesel,

  4. help! being told that i can put veg oil in my 2.25 diesel and it will work ok. all the stuff on net couple of years old and too technical.

    can't see how myself seams it would be to thick. also free to a good home,i have a hi cap tub when bought this cover came with it, its home made, quite well though its normal 109 van cover but shortened to suit hi cap. comes with door but no brackets,this is free but if you got ssomething i might like say fog lamps that would be nice.01617372999.andrew salford.

  5. thanks for your help and advice, got a top mechanic on board all welding done £100 bargain, back on monday to do the rest. found a place in brum that will refurbish/recon the steering box for £80 so for that price gonna go with it.got quoted £388 for new one. hoprfully up and running in two weeks.

    It sounds like your MOT centre aren't that familiar with land rovers.

    1. I'd guess this is a loose bolt on the drop arm. Tighten the bolts, get a pry bar on it and see if you can make it move.

    2. You can adjust the steering box in the O/S front wheel arch. Remove the box cover (you can see the steering box on the other side). underneath there is a lock nut and an adjusting nut. Loosen locknut, tighten adjusting nut and get someone to move steering from lock to lock. Continue to tighten adjusting nut until friction/tight spots appear in steering. Back off adjusting nut until friction/tightspots disappear and tighten locknut. It might be worth jacking up the front axle onto axle stands so you are not moving against the resistance of the tyres. It would be much easier to detect when its getting tight this way.

    There is always going to be some play. If they complain again, tell them that that's how it's meant to be.

    3. I'm guessing the swivel pin. Jack up/axle stands etc, remove wheel. Two bolts on top of the swivel housing, remove, remove a shim refit (haynes for torque settings). Make sure you remove mud/crud first and be prepared for the contents of the swivel housing to drain onto the floor (if there is anything in them!). Refit wheel, wobble wheel top/bottom to check play is taken up.

    4. Air in the brakes/old fluid. Bleed brakes as a starting point. If no improvement, drain entire system and refill with new fluid. Could also be a flexihose on the way out, but the MOT tester should have noticed this.

    HTH!

  6. hi

    ted my 1961 lwb 109 with a series3 cab and hi/cap pick-up.failed its mot today wasnt expecting so many things but i am a novice what do i know... nothing it seams, could anyone explain what they are talking about.

    1.offside front intermediate drop arm insecure?

    2.steering system has excessive free play detected at the steering wheel? (please advice how to begin to correct this).

    3.offside front(chrome ball) steering pivot point has excessive play. (dangerous?). please suggest best way to solve.

    4. brake peddle spongy. what will this be.

    there are 17 other points, 3 welding, 1 spring,shocks,wipers.these things i plan to do myself,save money.

    been looking through haynes and workshop books so may have learned some things but please your help or advice would be helpfull.

    i live in salford, manchester, does anyone know of local mechanic who knows his series 2s.

  7. hi complete novice servicing my series 2a. bought full gasket overhaul set wondering any tips ie do you need to use silicon? do you wet the paper gaskets before you fit. also engine can be very smoky {blue} read in workshop manual about setting the tappets i have bought a starter handle to have a go at fixing this. anything i need to know about using a starter handle to turn the engine over to do this job. also whats the best way to clean the air filter, seen on tv someone clean similar thing in petrol. is this ok to do or is there a better way. cheers andrew.

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