Stopover
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Posts posted by Stopover
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Since digital switch over I cannot receive any TV
You can select search as usual but it does not pick up any channels
As anyone else experienced similar problems?
Thanks
Clarky
Simple: Digital switchover means your old analogue tv tuner won't work. You need a digital one!
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Hi everybody, I'm hoping you can help mre with this problem! I have 1997 4.0 p38 Range Rover, which has started first time ever since i've had it, battery went flat while i was away (1 week) decided to fit a new battery, this now has been a pain in the rear which i wish i hadn't started, anyway changed the battery motor started was running fine 10mins but it did say key code lockout, switched motor off then it would not start, phoned up local agent who said it wanted an EKA code to start it, Take out a mortgage and bring it to us springs to mind!)-don't think so. they gave me the code entered it as shown in book, no start, various people have said disconnect battery, reconnect re-enter code it will take it, after 10 times or so still not starting, turned key on and off couple of times it started revved lovely ran it for 15mins it would not tickover though it was like the tickover speed wanted to be 100rpm so it wanted to try and cut out each time you took foot off throttle (if you held it above tickover speed it ran nice) after running it turn it on/off a couple of times restarted ok, i thought great! left it for 10mins or so switched off then went to start it,it would fire straight away but will not rev in anyway then cut out just after it fired- this is all so strange because the motor would always start first time before this battery was fitted, people have said if someone has got a rovercon they might be able to help diagnose this problem, what ever it is! sorry this so long but needed to give the full SP of what has happened since fitting this new battery. Can anybody help me with this problem? it has been suggested that a fuse box might be faulty but why did it start ok before! the battery was changed.
If the battery goes totally flat with a P38 then you could have problems as various systems need a few volts to keep running. Getting the EKA code was a goog idea and started the car but it now doesn't run as normal, bit unlucky. An 'Adaptive Reset' is the first thing I would try (as advised by the last post) Try to find an independant with T4 TestBook or Autologic and try this as the first thing. As I suspect that you have been pulling fuses and plugs etc in an attempt to solve the problem.
It would be of great help if you gave us some more information. What car is it, year etc etc etc?
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Don't do what it i did 4 weeks ago. I could not get the retaining clip off the back of the key barrel cam that holds the rod going down to the central door locking mechanism, so i tried levering it off with a screwdriver.....result a broken cam on the key barrel. I have been waiting four weeks for a new door handle from LR.
Central locking mechanism cost me 140 quid, then 41 quid for a new door handle, then to top it all i ripped the speaker cone on the door card and that cost me another 20 quid. Not a job i want to do again!
OOps well, I assure you, it happens to us all! Yesderday my replacement lock mechanism arrived and although it was dark by 3.30pm I had a go at replacing it. Try as I might I had to resort to the hacksaw and removed the offending extra bracket (see post above). Went on easily after that. I found that to re-hang the door card I started at the lock end with a screwdriver to push the retaining clip over towards the window the rest clipped in OK, took about five attempts though! Although the actuator part arrived as prommissed I have yet to see the Cam Kit (different supplier - if you can call them that!) despite phone calls and promises etc, etc so just put back the outside door lock. It all works vey well now.
Have started today to replace the front diffrential. Started with the drivers side and removed the brake caliper, brake disk and back plate but could not remove the ABS sensor!!! never had this before, tried everything. Could get a good grip on it but it wouldn't budge and so the inevitable happened and it broke off at the top. Took over two hours of drilling and all sorts of things, to get it out. Well bless me someone had obviously found the outer carrier was only holding the sensor loosly, or at least this is what I think and had Araldited the whole thing in!!! Fortunately with some reeming etc I should be able to refit a new on - but it spoilt the day as I had hopped the whole job done today. Praying for similar weather tomorrow? Whoever did this bodge should have just taken out the carrier and distorted it to get a tight fit. I have done lots of these and when you havent got a new replacement that the thing to do - but Araldite or something similar, blimy !! I am dreading doing the other side in case its the same. May have to buy two new sensors, retainers and blood pressure therapy in the local, its getting expensive!!
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I've done it on both passenger and driver side (LHD) and had no problem
fitting with the extra bit that seems to be unused.
Unfortunately I can't remember how to insert it again, but it is a bit of
a 3D puzzle. What I do remember is that I took off all linkages except the
one that goes to the exterior doorhandle, then fitted the others once it
was inplace.
Would come and do it for you, but I'm a bit far away.
Hi, Shame you are not closer. I had the same with the linkage to the door handle. On the earlier models there are just two of those green clips and no extra lever, would have been a doddle. My post to this forum have to go though a moderator so take a bit of time to get on otherwise I would have seen your post earlier. In about ten years I might be trusted?
All the replies, from obvious enthusiasts, are much appreciated.
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FWIW, I think how easy you find fitting the latch depends on your dexterity, your ability to think in three dimensions, and small hands.
Geoff perhaps scores on all three points - I certainly don't.
On my '95 the original didn't have the extra bracket, and I noted carefully how it came out, because I classed it as 'a bit of a fiddle'. I did try to insert the new one with the extra bracket, but couldn't modify my 'insertion is the reverse of removal' method, so cut the bracket off, when it was 'easy' to replace.
If it's any comfort, I think you are correct to change the latch as soon as it fails. I'm not sure whether I admire or pity those people who take it out, clean lubricate, and re-install. Some even dismantle the thing to mess about with the microswitches. The thing is obviously worn, and after 10 years I don't see that gaining an extra year or so is worth all the messing about. I'd rather do the job once and have done with it.
I don't believe the latch fits any other vehicle; what else from the mid 90's has the lock and superlock facility?
later versions (L322) may have it, but they are a generation on, and I'm sure the latches reflect it.
Give it a couple of refit attempts, just to say you tried, then out with the hacksaw!!
Photo's will be interesting; I find that in such confined quarters that if you get the lens to give you the view you want, the flash can't see the bit you want to illuminate.
Good Luck.
PS. 'preparing for a big trip' - from the Isle of Man that must mean crossing water; rather you than me, this week!
The big trip (for us anyway) is Isle of Man Steam Packet to Heysham (UK) then drive to London for an overnight. Then London to Harwich to catch the Danish ferry to Esberg then drive across Denmark to Copenhagen and a bit later return! My wife is Danish. - and the car will not miss a beat!!!!!! And no we have nothing to do with that G20
I have several jobs to do before we go. The biggest is to change the front differential and engine mounts but I'm a bit worried as the weather has been foul for weeks. The Isle of Man ferry has been cancelled twice and won't be sailing tonight (severe force 9 gales and rough to severe sea state). What Cumbria has had we had it too. Whilst I am waiting for the lock part its under the car between the drissle and showers as I have to work on it outside. Oh for a lottery win and a lovely warm workshop!
You are right about the extra bracket atached to the latch assembly it's only on the later cars. Which makes me wonder why its there as it does nothing but get in the way?
Mine is a high mileage 4.6 2000 model. I found I had to undo the catch on the door handle to release the control rod. On doing this I see that the handle inards are also a bit tired so have ordered (at great expense 2 or 3 UK Pounds) a Cam Kit with new spring for that too so hopefully it should all work a treat. I have seen door latches on ebay go for eighty pounds + but decided that at that price its false economy) Have a new one for peace of mind. Island 4x4 seemed the best deal and ordering online you get free delivery and the price quoted includes the dreaded Vodka And Tonic.
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Had to happen just as preparing for a big trip. The door latch failed. I was sitting in the driver's seat at the time and climbing out via the passenger side, fleetingly, brought back memories of being young again!
I followed the very good advice on rangerovers.net and with the window down was able to wedge the door glass and with a long piece of welding rod poked the right bit and the door opened (lucky). The car is a 2000 year model and the directions in my workshop manual only show the earlier type of latch assembly with two electric plugs. I now know there are different latch assemblies for different models! (later ones have a single plug) but after an hour or two (it was freezing, spots of rain and a howling gale) its now sharing the kitchen table with a hot toddy.
Rather than risk the same happening again I have ordered a new one (ouch!) and when it arrives with take some pics to show it going in. The main reason for this post is to see if anyone knows what other vehicle these latch assemblies fit. On the rangerovers.com site you will see advice on removing a bracket that doesn't appear to have a function on the range rover therefor it must fit something else too! its removal will help in refitting and I wish the blooming thing hadn't been on the one I removed as it was a pain to get out - you need a calm frame of mind for this job.
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try www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk
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hi,just a query realy,i have a 3.9 auto v8 rrc,we have just had 2 days of freezing frosty mornings,and ive notice i get a slight auto box slip for the first 3 or 4 mins after driving,goes back to normal after a couple a mins,,only does it first thing in the morning when we have the frost,,any one else get this?.
First thing to do is get a new autobox filter kit, fit it and new dexion II might do the trick?
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Has anyone got a Height Guage Set they could let me borrow/buy even?
Has anyone reset their suspension using these. Lots of people do it with the free software on ebay and with Auto/L Rovercom etc but I do want to obtain a genuine set, maybe even make replicas as I am sure many would want access to these. I have seen the attempt of some not so technically minded people and have seen the odd car that I considered dangerous after a bodge attempt at doing it with car jacks etc.
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I got this off the AA website whilst looking at the International Drivers Permit, and i know there's been a lot of questions about legalities of driving in Europe on the forum, so thought this might be helpful:
That is very helpful as I am off soon. Didn't realise that you had to carry the Original Reg Document for so many countries. What is the car is stolen its a useful thing for the theif to have I would have thought?
LSE soft dash Diagnostics
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Never had any problems in using my T4 TestBook on an LSE Soft Dash. So I would find someone with TestBook who knows how too and has the correct leads and software. Not very good mechanics to break an ABS sensor!! If you visit the Isle of Man I'll do it for you.