MonLand
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Posts posted by MonLand
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Not sure if this is against policy of this forum, but Robert spent the time describing the different tunnels here:
https://www.defendersource.com/threads/transmission-tunnels-clarified.166075/
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On 8/6/2021 at 5:54 PM, landroversforever said:
The way nanocom works is that it’s unlocked for certain things. For example my Td5 disco one, will do defender td5 engine stuff. For example the defender td5 one will do disco td5 engine stuff but not the BCU stuff.
So…… If I wanted to go the Nanocom route, I should get the Disco Td5 version? Anything the Disco Td5 would not do on a 2001 Def Td5 (maybe the immobiliser access/check/changes?)?
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A quick update: the engine harness had been repaired and the CPS sensor might have been defective. Harness got properly repaired (spliced replaced wire + plug), sensor was replaced.
engine ran great for ~50 miles/80 km.
now, when engine is warm, it feels like it is misfiring. I suspect injector harness needs replacing based on feedback I’ve gathered so far.
Im investing in a Nanocom to learn more about what the ECU sees so I don’t throw parts at non-existing problems…. -
Took the plunge and got a 2001 Td5 110. Now that I have seen the check engine light on, I want to be. Able to read engine diagnostic codes and such. Looks like the Nanocom Evo is the way to go.
Where do you buy a used one? any pitfall when buying used? (I assume getting one already unlocked for Defenders is more cost effective of course)
Or where to buy a new one for the best price?thanks,
Loic.
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On 6/18/2021 at 2:37 AM, Snagger said:
I’d imagine the white smoke was unburnt fuel from incorrect timing, since the engine was already running. An intermittent fault on the CPS or the wiring loom between engine and ECU could cause transient errors like this, so that’s where I’d look first.
The CPS is an easy one to replace if I’m not mistaking. But what is the best way to diagnose (and not just throw parts to) the issue? Any specific loom that is notorious for/would typically have corrosion (or be shafted)?
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On 6/17/2021 at 4:18 PM, Escape said:
If the shop puts it on diagnostics, they'll be able to check the sensors. CPS is unlikely, that's also needed for starting and idling. My guess would be the drive-by-wire throttle pedal (or associated wiring).
Would the pedal wiring/stuff have cause the initial engine shutdown/no restart?
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Ok. More data points:
- engine started today (no hesitation starting)
- rpm stay idle (no way get get more rpms)
- engine sounds good when running
- oil looks good (no Mayo)
- coolant looked ok (just a bit low)
I think either fuel delivery or sensor (I still think CPS at this time).
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Not sure yet if there is Mayo in there or not.
died as in:
- coasting along at 120km/h on the highway
- reached a highway exchanger, took the right turn lane, let off the gas pedal (down to ~70-80km/h)
- apparently at that point got white smoke in the back
- engine died and coasted to the emergency lane.
- engine does not restart (and does not “sound/feel good” during cranking).
that’s all I have at this time. I -hope- the failure was the CPS (being reading a bit) as it would explain the suddenly dying? Not sure if it explains the white smoke (which could be coolant or diesel? I’d assume oil would be blue.... but.... no idea if witness was precise)
[me being a few thousand miles from it does not help! :/]
will be picked up and towed tomorrow to a shop. Since it was just purchased, it feels prudent to have an official shop look into it in case the insurance decides to go after the seller.
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carp.... this did not take long. Engine died 100 miles from starting point.... white smoke on a right-lame turn (highway exchanger)......
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I recently acquired (today....) a 2000 110 Td5 with close to 300KM (~185K miles) and would like to keep it as long as possible.
i looked but could not find a definitive “here is the preventive maintenance you have to perform to avoid failure “ (there was a mention of a chain to the oil pump???).
Is there an obvious list I missed somewhere? (Maybe I got the wrong keywords or a brain fart....)
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OK here we go...
I've stripped the LT230 transfer box. It turned out to be an easy job. The only 'special tools' needed are a bearing puller (to remove the bearings from the differential, input gear and output shafts), some good circlip pliers and a steel drift.
Thanks for the write-up Marco, it's just great and timely for me!
I'm in a similar state, where are you planning to order replacement parts?So far I am at crush sleeve, all bearings (just because that's the right time), gaskets (RTV?) and low/high range selector and ring (not sure what happened there, got that T-case without explanation).
Thx,
MonLand
I'm in a similar state, where are you planning to order replacement parts?
Sunroof seal
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
It’s been a while, but still the same situation. That JK seller on eBay sells the seal for both flip-up and twist handle sunroofs. What conclusion did you get to? (I’m looking for the twist handle seal myself)