[Starter motor Freelander V6 2002]

Hi, it's right at the top of the gearbox next to the gearbox mounting.

[TD4 Turbo Vent Filter]

They have changed the service schedule over the last few years. Turbo filters and crankcase breather filters are to be changed every 12,000 miles or every 12 months, whichever comes first. The elastic black bands are the seals for the breather filter housing. They sit in the camshaft cover. Also you should have an o ring for the breather filter itself. The o ring is the most important bit.

[help!!!!! disco died]

Hi, did you replace the injector wiring loom also??? As this is the main cause of oil in the loom! Also does the fuel pump whine when the ignition is on?

[Cooling fans not working]

Hi, there is a modified fan pack ECU and wiring loom available at Land Rover dealers. The ECU is a known fault. Also one fan should come on with the aircon switched on to assist, but it wont do it at the moment because it is too cold. You may see it assisting if the engine is really hot. Fans operate in three stages, slow, medium and fast, depending on the temp. They should kick in between half and three quarters on the temp guage. They will probably never kick in at this time of year though. As for pulling the connector off the ECT, this is a failsafe mode and clears as you found out with an ignition cycle. Hope this helps.

[clutch problems]

Hi, Land Rover have modified the clutches in freelanders many times. If its a non genuine one then it will probably be the clutch. Also if only the driveplate was replaced then it will almost certainly need a new clutch cover (pressure plate). Have also changed flywheels with high spots for judders. Get them to do it again definitely!

[Exhaust Manifold]

I've replaced four manifolds in the last month. They are always seperating! (Only replaced them as they were under warranty). If it was my own i would weld it!

[changing my ecu]

Right ok, I would check the engine timing first. There is a timing mark on the bottom pulley and casing behind at about 12 oclock. Turn the engine over by hand at the crank pulley until these line up. Then take off the upper cambelt cover. The camshaft pulleys should be perfectly aligned across the middle by timing markings. If they are not then the belt will either need adjusting or replacing.

If this still doesn't fix it or it is ok then i would change/swap the fuel pump. Be very gentle removing and refitting the pump. Its under the driver's side rear seat and carpet. There is an access panel there. When removing the securing ring on the top of the tank be careful not to use too much force!!! This could break both pumps if too much shock is applied.

Setting up the throttle stop/stepper motor is done on the computer im afraid. This will need to be carried out by a dealer or specialist. Don't attempt it yourself as could cause issues! Im pretty sure its not this though.

I don't advise swapping the ECU's yet. It's the biggest job!

[loss of power]

Hi, I would advise you to get the wiring to the gearbox checked now as I personally have seen wires rubbed through on the body doing exactly the same thing. Then if this all checks out it can only really be an ECU fault as long as the new gearbox isn't faulty?! I have never heard of an ECU ever being changed.

[changing my ecu]

Hi, this is no easy task. You have to swap the engine, immobilisation, instrument pack, ABS (if fitted) ECU's and the Central control unit (piggy backed on passenger fusebox) and use the plips from the donor car. You will have to do this if you want no other problems. I would try the in tank fuel pump as these do fault regulary, they block up and destroy the pump. The filter is within the pump and I would not recommend changing this as the pumps are very delicate and tend to stop working after being messed with. Hope this helps. Also there can be many other things to check before going down this route, e.g. engine timing, stepper motor and set up (throttle stop adjustment), etc.

[changing the starter motor - what did I do wrong?]

Hi, the starter does turn even though the solenoid has not engaged it. Therefore as previously said, bench test the starter motor to see if the starter cog does engage across to your green area. If it doesn't then this starter is also faulty. These are a fairly common failure on 1.8 Freelanders.

[Tinting heated windows]

Hi, the tinters that we use always tint the rear glass on the outside so that it is a smooth finish and doesn't cause any problems.

[Roll Cage Fitting]

Hi, in answer to your question I would advise you to get it professionally done. After all it is there to prtect you as a safety feature. I definitely would not advise you to fit it yourself if your are not a confident welder. I weld myself and I am a Land Rover tech and even I would think about getting installed by someone who knows how as Im not confident I know exactly how it should be mounted, etc.

[Rear window opening when i'm not around]

Hi, if it's a three door then it will have a roof switch. This sometimes is not pushed in far enough. This can be easily modified. Although it normally does it if you are driving about aswell. If this switch is released then the taildoor window will drop no matter if locked or not.

[Rear Diff Nose Mount?]

Hi, if you still need tips, it makes it a lot easier if you remove the driver's side mounting 13mm bolts aswell. This gives you much more room to remove and fit the mount.

[TD4 refuses to start]

Hi, this sounds like an injector fault to me, although it could be a fuel pump fault or fuel pumps depending on the year. Fuel filters are also easily blocked on this engine.

[freelander 2]

Hi, I work at a Land Rover dealer. This is normal on all Freelander 2's with a TD4 engine. It,s the noise that the ECU makes when powering down. Never found out from the engineers what it is, but they have told me that is what it is. It's nothing to worry about.