Ghost14
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Posts posted by Ghost14
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is there a grease nipple fitted to the sliding joint outer tube, if not lack of lubrication & use in lots of water would have helped kill it.
there's one up the ends near the ujs, not sure if that's linked into the splines as well. it has been in water.. was kinda stuck in a lake for 30 mins...
so is there anything i can do about it?
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I have a wide angle propshaft on the front and taking it off today found that it doesnt slide in and out, it's seized. any ideas why this could have happened or what i can do about it?
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ok so i have a track rod guard on and i need to move the rear of the 2 bolts on the front radius arms to get this off. Currently i have the front jacked up with the jacks on the radius arms and the wheels are off and the prop shaft is off too. i'm worried aabout the axle rotating and then i'm not able to get the bolt back in so I'm after some advice about where best to put the axle stands and what to do so this doesn't happen, or if it does what to do to align the holes back up again.
but yea, any advice??
Graham
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Right i've adjusted my kickdown cable as tight as it can go and it's better but still not fixed, it doesn't seem to change the speed at gear changes up during normal slow acceleration but changes when it changes down to accelerate.
how do I change the filter??? anyone know of a link to a guide or has any pics???
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yea i'm sure. i know it should change at 50, that's the problem..... it's changing too early
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if i accelerate slowly in D, when it changes into 4th at rougly 30mph the engine revs seem to drop and the gearbox judders. it doesn't happen if i accelerate quickly so that it changes at a higher speed. any ideas? it's a ZF4HP22
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right i have a disco 200tdi auto in a 89 defender 90 and am getting about 18 mpg.......... WHY????? how can i make it better????
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so going back then...... what's my next step?
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Usually it's a sign that the alternator diode pack has died. Disconnect the small brown/yellow wire from the alternator, if the light goes out then its a faulty diode pack. The diode pack is inside the alternator, it can be repaired/replaced but it's normally cheaper to get a replacement alternator.
as i said in my previous post, now the light is permentally out... and low and behold again this morning.. flat battery!
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So always on then? Why especially position 2?
This could could be because the alternator end of the thin wire off the back of the alternator is shorting on something or the alternator regulator pack has failed - 13V suggests that this might be true.
Does the warning light ever flicker?
sorry i meant it goes off with position 2
low and behold this morning I had a flat battery.
UPDATE
anyways for most of today if i put my foot down the light gets brighter and let off it gets dimmer although at some point today the light went off, and now its off all the time, even when you turn the ignition to position 2 (which its meant to come on)
I tested the voltage across the alternator and i get 13.5 max and have got 12.5 across the battery. i then disconnected various things from the +ve feen and found that the main cable for the car electrics (ie not the cb, or winch or compressor etc) is drawing 3 Amps with the ignition off so i'm guessing it's something on that circuit that is draining the battery, although i'm not sure really what to do next to go about diagnosing exactly what it is........
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I tightened up the belt on my alternator yesterday and now the no charge light is always on, it is ON when the engine is running, it is ON when the ignition is off and when the key is removed however it goes on when you turn the ignition to position 2.
I dont think the belt is too turn, can just turn it to 90 degrees with 2 fingers which is what i was told you should be able to do...... any ideas?? i've tested the voltage across it when the engine is running and it reads between 13-14 volts so i guess it;s on its way out. but why is the light on even when there are no keys in the ignition?
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I hear for some series you need a MSA approved roll cage for class 2 and 3. I have a custom roll cage but no idea if it meets the specs for the MSA, is this something i can get checked out when i turn up to an event or is it something that has to be done before?
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I have a 200 tdi disco engine with an autobox. i hear people saying that if you tune it too much you can break the autobox or the torque converter? is this so? anyone got any opinions on this?
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Seems not any more...
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=20265
You won't be able to change just the low box unfortunately, but then with bigger tyres you will want to drop the high as well, 1.2 on 35" tyres is going to play havoc with your fuel economy.... and make driving it on the road a very tiresome experience, with autobox changes all over the place.
am keeping my current tyres for the mo, have loads of other things to do first, was kind of jumping a gun a bit. so you can get an underdrive thing which will change my low but not my high?
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is that for the diff? ideal i'd like to keep my high ratio and just change the low. would the tomcat stuff fit in my current tbox?
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has anyone ever experienced problems with injectors getting clogged up etc?
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so what are my options??
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oh, i thought you could change the gears inside the transfer box..
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I am currently running a 1.2 transfer box and am new to this malarky so please excuse my ignorance. I've heard you can change the low ratio in a transfer box without altering the high ratio? my reason for this is I have an auto box and it is carp at engine breaking going down steep inclines. is this possible? what do you need? and how do you do it?
cheers
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could you expand a bit on the above? how do you get more boost? what does this do to the fuel consumption?
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please excuse my ignorance, i'm new to all this. what do you need to do to your truck to be able to run veg oil? i have a 200tdi disco in a defender?
Graham
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Yes I have, didn't have a problem there
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Hi, I have a 200tdi disco engine in my defender 90, it has an auto gearbox and a 1.2 transfer box (which is why i'm posting this here and not in the defender forum
ok so here's what's happening.
there's a mechanical whining sound coming somewhere from the the driveline
It is there when there is power going to the wheels but when i take my foot off the accelerator it stops
It changes linearly with vehicle speed NOT engine speed
the faster i go the louder and higher pitched it gets
I have removed the rear prop and driven in diff lock and it is still there so I'm guessing it's not the rear diff, and i'm pretty sure it's not the front
therefore it must be something to do with either the transfer box or the auto transmission.
does anyone have any ideas what this may be or how I could go about trying to find out?? could it be a bearing thing??? I've added an audio file on youtube so you can hear what i mean. you can hear at about 8 seconds where i come on and off the accelerator
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thanks for the info guys!! I'm still not sure whether to go for them SiWhite you say you've never broken anything, what kind of offroading did you do?
Diff Ratios
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
so you cant replace the crown wheel in a defender diff with one from a p38?