G_Cam
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Posts posted by G_Cam
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Hi.
What did you end up getting?
I have just picked up a 2005 commercial - and I want to get some winter/AT's on it before the bad weather hits?
Thanks
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Hi All
In my 200tdi I use a 50:50 Veg/Diesel mix in summer
100% Diesel in the winter
No ill effects to date (3 years and 30k miles later).
I tip it into the tank and run every 10th tank full on 100% Diesel.
The only disadvantage is the number of questions you get asked when you tip the Tesco veg oil into the tank in the Tesco car park
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cough cough..... not that i in any way would endorse such a thing...... but you could form a 'hawkeye collective' between several people who own one with different vehicles and cough cough, share the codes
Are they not 'device specific' codes?
If anyone wants to send me a D3 code I can test it on my machine that is set up for a D2
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I drilled a hole for the wheel stud, & just to make sure it stayed on, I also drilled/tapped bolted the plate to the wheel carrier
Hope this helps.
Brilliant - thanks for that. I'm now watcching for a local one coming up for sale on e blag.
G
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Thanks Dave
Is that the 'fully loaded' look.... ahhh just what a 110 was built for.
Your rack looks like just the job..... I will have a search around for a Simbars. They look a bit better value vs a maxxraxx one as well!
I assume that it was the 'back plate' that needed modified?
thanks
Graham
hi all - can anyone advise on how you get the Simbars rack to fit a Defender?
Thanks
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Here's a pic without the bikes,
Thanks Dave
Is that the 'fully loaded' look.... ahhh just what a 110 was built for.
Your rack looks like just the job..... I will have a search around for a Simbars. They look a bit better value vs a maxxraxx one as well!
I assume that it was the 'back plate' that needed modified?
thanks
Graham
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If you're after the real deal then buy a Maxx Raxx... I have one and it's fab.
It is a little more expensive than the others, but the quality is there and I know people who've had them for years without problems
sorry to re-open this thread....but I'm looking for a bit of help.....
I have the spare mounted on a Swing away carrier...and slightly larger rubber than the norm.... I'm looking at a MaxxRaxx carrier - but I'm not sure which of the two 4x4 versions would actually fit (the Discovery or the 4x4)?
Has anyone fitted one?
I am looking to carry 4 bikes.
Thanks
Graham
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I have read various reports around veg oil and numerous mods, some say you can add a mixture of derv and veg oil with no mods.
Has anyone run a 200tdi on a mixture and at what % and how did it work out?
Or is it a bad idea?
Depending on Price I run up to 50% veg oil in the summer. (Max 25% in the winter)
Pura 1ltr is £1.09 in Tesco at the moment (It was 52p a couple of months ago!)
I have carried out no mods. It runs very smoothly (some say its better). Just change your fuel filter after a couple of 100 miles as the veg oil 'cleans' your pipes etc....
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WKW90 had this problem with the gauge reading which we found was down to a duff gauge. Substitution resolved the problem.
Mo
Thanks Mo
I fitted another gauge last night......and it was EXACTLY THE SAME
ie showing full....but the tank is not full!
I'm getting SO FRUSTRATED with this!!!!!!
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IMHO - and having used both...........you are better off using Dinatrol
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Hi All
a NEW TWIST................
I have now got my fuel warning light working again...........
I pulled the sender....moved it up & down...it works OK...... after EXTENSIVE head scratching...
it appears that it had been re-fitted in such a way that the float was 'getting caught' on the fuel pickup pipe. I have a HD long range baffled tank in place - so its a bit of a fiddle to get the sender in at the correct angle. The person who had been working on it had even snapped one of the 4 set screws that hold the sender in place .... (another hours work for me & my dad!)The fuel gauge is DEFIANTLY not working - it reads 'full' all the time...but I guess it could just be defective after all these years?
The resistance from the sender was the same at the sender as it was across the gauge. (Aprox: 330 full; 110 half full; 20 empty - measured in Ohms).
Graham
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Graham,
Did you check that the low level warning light bulb is OK ?
Mo
Hi Mo
- i have checked it.....the bulb is on all the time....and the gauge is showing full.....a total contradiction!!!!
Grrrrrrrrrrrr
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Don't be running extra wires !!!!!!
The fuel sender jobbie should only have 2 wires connected to it.
A green wire with a female spade on the back of your fuel gauge gets the +ve feed for the whole fuel gauging. The green wire with a male spade on it on the back of the fuel gauge runs to the VDO wiper on your intank sender. The other connector on your intank sender (black i think if i remember rightly) goes to earth. The intank sender kinda gives a varying resistance which causes the needle on the gauge to go up and down.
On to the low fuel light... there is a box in behind the dash that also looks at this varying resistance. I forgotten what its called but i'm sure ya get the idea. This is what puts your low fuel level light on. But start with the simple... change the bulb.
I feel for you - its very annoying!!
I'm having a NIGHTMARE with my Fuel gauge and low level warning light ...the gauge stopped working (always showing full) and now the warning light has packed up!!!
I have changed the sender (2 wire) but to no effect......
can anyone tell me what the resistance should read when the sender is on Empty/Quarter/Half/three-quarters and FULL?
HELP!!
I'm running out of patience - even had it into an auto-electrician and he has not been able to fix it!!!
my only fuel 'gauge' is when I splutter to a halt....
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Alternator seems a tad on the low side but not necessarily a problem, they normally kick out 14.5v.
Now i know two friends who both bought Optimas, both had problems with them self discharging if left for a while.
When i worked for a Chrysler dealer, they fit Optimas as standard, we used to change loads under warranty for the same problem. The general opinion was that they were carp. But... in the "off road" world everyone seems to rave about them.
Now you may have a current drain and the battery is fine, but that is my experience of Optimas.
To check for a current drain, disconnect the earth lead and connect a test meter set to 10 Amps between the battery - post and the disconnected lead. Should read about 0.05 amp max with everything off.
Most common causes of battery drain..interior lights not going off...Aftermarket alarm/immobilisers...faulty alternators.
Let us know how you get on.
Your comments are very interesting indeed.
I have a Red Optima that was bought new around 12 months ago - but now does not hold its charge for more than 3 days!
It is part of a split charge system in my Defender and the Yellow Optima now also appears to be failing after 18 months.
I have had to stick my trusty Samson lead acid battery back in while I test the system and see if the optimas still fully discharge when not fitted.
I have a cut-off switch fitted so there should be NIL leakage when its sitting unused!
It is VERY VERY frustrating.
Graham
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Bin all of the ducting run from the inside of the wing to the airbox and replace it with 1 piece of flexible pipe - all the standard landie ducting can be a nightmare to seal up to make it airtight.
Thanks - that probably is a good idea,
I would assume you run one pipe from the back of the 'connection pipe/flange' that sits on the side of the wing?
I have had another look this morning and I still cannot see how you can do the job without taking the heater unit out.....Is this really required? It does not show it in the Mantec instructions (mind you they look like they are for a 300tdi?)
Help - I don't want to spend hours doing stuff that is not required.!!
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I bought a Paddocks one a couple of years back and it was not too bad. ( I also had it Hot Galv dipped)
I guess theymust have changed their supplier?
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Hi All
I have one of these
http://www.mantec.co.uk/store_viewItem.cfm...mp;CategoryID=1
And I want to fit it into my 200tdi 110 CSW.
I took the plastic covers off the top/side today and have removed the heater intake duct (after removing the washer bottle).
The question is what now....
It looks like I need to take out the whole heater box? Is this right?
I discovered that the air intake pipe was not even connected to the bent bit of duct that attaches to the side vent....mind you it wasn't connected either!
Can anyone help?
Thanks
Graham
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goof for you
Eh?
I was trying to give it some real thought? Were you not?
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Beacuse it would take any idiot about a minute to find a tracker/trackstar on a Defender and disable it.
Cheers
Steve
But would they actually be looking for one?
There must be places that you can hide a tracker in a Defender? I can think of a few off the top of my head that they would not think to look.
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If you just wire them in parallel, you lose the ability to jump start yourself if you leave your lights on etc.
There's also the matter of low current oscillations between the two batteries - who knows if that's a real-world problem?
I've got a VSR fitted, I like that i can leave the stereo/PC/worklights on with no worry of flattening the cranking battery.
Thanks - thats my thought.
I have twin batteries, with a split charge Voltage sensing relay setup. My auxilliary stuff is all wired up to the second battery.
I also have either..... a DUD Optima (that is not holding its charge)....OR some leakage current. My battery flattens in about 3 days
I really need to get around to checking it out....as my emergency starting procedure involves the 2 batteries, a Spanner....and some dexterity to hold it in place while I turn on the ignition....
I also need to replace my starter motor...as 50% of the time it just whirrrrrrs and does not engage
It never rains but it snows Eh
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I have seen the answer to this somewhere - but way do some folks connect the master Cut-off switch to the Positive....while others connect it to the Earth?
Also MY FIA one shows a connection to the 'coil'....but its not connected in reality? is this because its a Diesel? If not what should I connect it to?
Thanks all.
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I'm glad no one has suggested a tracker, they usually do , as they are a complete waste of money on a Defender.
Steve
Why?
I have a removable steering wheel + a few other things to slow the process down in case any one tries to knick my 110. It may stop the opportunist...however....if they want it, they will get it. If they use a winch and trailer none of the 'stop you driving it' devices will work, they dont even need to open the doors, just attach a winch and drag it.
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Agree with that, also draper expert are good
Yip I agree as well. Halfords are Excellent value and quality and come with a lifetime warranty.
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Really? I didn't notice and I changed my PS belt yesterday.
I find that the PS belt needs to be pretty tight, otherwise it squeals under load.
Even when tight it squeal sometimes, in which case I found replacing the belt fixed it, even thought there was no visible damage to the old one.
I have spent a while today trying to replace my fan belt - it had shredded
I cant get good access with the fan cowel on - I did remove the air filter housing - that helped a bit. Do I really need a special spanner to get the fan off?
I have 2 small problems:
1. the bottom (front) alternator bolt has a damaged head - so i cant get a socket on it to loosen it off
2. upon closer inspection the pulley wheel on the front of the crank has a wee nick out of it (very ragged) so this may have caused the failure.
Does anyone have any thoughts/tips?
I guess I need a replacement front pulley (any idea which one as there are 3 part numbers in the book?).
How the heck do I get the Pulley/crank bolt off?
it appears that it had been re-fitted in such a way that the float was 'getting caught' on the fuel pickup pipe. I have a HD long range baffled tank in place - so its a bit of a fiddle to get the sender in at the correct angle. The person who had been working on it had even snapped one of the 4 set screws that hold the sender in place .... 
Freelander wheels aren't all the same fitting.
in Freelander Forum
Posted
anyone?