[110 Hart Top side wall protection]

Bit pricey for my pocket - and it's wood! Thanks for the link.

[110 Hart Top side wall protection]

Cheapest and lightest would be polystyrene, but I doubt that's what you're looking for. From the question, it sounds like you're planning an Oceans Eleven bankjob!

Seriously, I'd look again at plywood, there's a reason everyone else uses it.

Yes I've thought about this and not out-ruled it totally, it's cheap, available and I guess if you use marine ply would be quite stable and not soak up moisture?

[110 Hart Top side wall protection]

Cheapest and lightest is plywood

But as you don't want wood, Stockboard is probably your best option.

Stokbord looks nice and cheap and would certainly do both sides from one 8x4 sheet. The chequer plate still looks my best option. Thanks for the idea.

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

whats that bolted on bit between the front chassis rails under the bumper?

It's a Watling front tow bracket that has two offset receivers for sliding in a detachable tow ball hitch for pushing a trailer if needed.

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

Nice Airstream! You should strip the paint off the 110 and polish it to match

Is that one of the new Euro spec airstreams or an old grey import?

I was tempted to ask Land Rover whether they could supply one un-painted but was worried what I'd end up with! Yes, it's a European spec'ed International 684, just over 2.5 years old now.

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

Splendid, it looks very nice and that's quite some caravan you're towing.

Mo

Thanks, I'm loving the lifestyle.

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

Hi, Well the 110 HT arrived a couple of months ago, I can confirm that it pulls my rig! I might need to chip it tho, it's a tad underpowered but has the grunt I need in low gears to get things moving...

Thanks for everyone here who helped me in making my final decision.

[110 Hart Top side wall protection]

Hi,

I've a new 110 Hard Top that I'd like to protect the side walls from internal damage. I'd also like to mount some lugs to mount some strops to tie equipments agains the walls etc. I've been looking at alloy (3mm 5-bar) & plated steel sheet metal. Has anyone done this? What's the lightest & cheapest material to use (not wood)?

Cheers!

[Waxoyl]

There's a thread in the Tech Archive about Waxoyling.

[New Defender long term rust prevention]

Thanks guys for links and tips...

[New Defender long term rust prevention]

OK back to the topic. Waxoyl it is, 7.5l to start off with, nice and warm to spray. Got an extension hose to get into chassis members etc. Looks like a disgusting, messy and smelly job. I assume if external chassis surfaces are coated it'll offer more protection but it'll act like a fly paper to dirt and gravel? Do or don't?

[New Defender long term rust prevention]

Point taken, where water can get in, it'll sure rust it! Door frames, doors and bulkhead...

[New Defender security]

Hi,

I've read somewhere about a spate of Defender thefts. What's the cheapest way to dramatically improve security? I'm looking at improving the security of the rear door as well.

Any ideas, manufacturers, links, examples etc?

Thanks in advance,

John

[New Defender long term rust prevention]

Hi,

I'm taking delivery of my new LRDHT in a couple of weeks. I've ordered 5L of Waxoyl, high-pressure pump (Jeez, wish I'd not sold my compressor!) and an extension tube. I've read the other threads here about general guidelines etc. What I'm looking for is some basic advice where else to spray/inject/paint that will offer long term protection. Having changed many chassis items on a 60's S2A many years I ago, I've a pretty good idea what rots on the chassis and will of course be my focus. Are their any other areas that would also benefit from a dap of this black gold?

Thanks in advance,

John

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

if you want to know what a defender can do towing wise watch this,

That's amazing, should shift my trailer ok!

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

Thanks for everyones help in deciding what to do. I ordered my Defender 110 hard-top today in Zermatt silver. Arrives June...

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

I can confirm that the Puma engine pulls like a train. With the addition of the super-low 1st gear you'll have no problems.

110 is definitely the better choice - especially if you're going to pull a caravan long distances.

The interior is much better. The seats are better and the heating actually works If you were to go for an XS (a it steep £££) then you'd also find that the aircon works! Imagine that - in a Defender

Service interval is every 12m.

Thanks alantd, all positive comments. What sort of MPG does yours return?

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

If you appear genuinely interested to them your local main dealer would probably loan you a 110 of some description for a day / weekend.

Yes, good point...

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

i had tow bar, mats, fuel rear windows thrown into my deal.

when it was just me my 90 HT was superb and had plenty of space for everything i did. having changed to a 110 to carry more people i now just fill the extra space with stuff i always managed to live without!

That's one of the reasons for trading from a D3 to a Defender 110 hardtop, to have more storage space and all out of view too. My only remaining concern is it's ability to tow like the D3? I wish I could have one for a day and tow my rig around? On paper my D3 yields @ 440Nm, 187hp (after chipping), the TDCi 360Nm, 122hp. The 110's unladen weight is 200k lighter than my D3. I suspect the 110 is better at getting the rig moving, what with it's lower gearing, anti-stall feature and bottom end torque - well, that's what people say and how it reads? I expect it'll get the job done well? After doing the power to weight ratio comparisons, there's very little in it...

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

A couple of points...

The turning circle can be decreased by adjusting the steering locks... Sounds silly to point it out, but it will make a huge improvement. The factory settings on the 110 are ridiculous and as long as the tyres don't rub the radius arms, you are in the clear... I don't know what 'the book' states the turning cicle as, but you can take a large percentage off with 10 minutes and 2 19mm spanners!! (don't forget the copper grease too!!)

The second point is that the TD5 Defender towbar fits the TDCi/Puma Defenders. The only difference is that a couple of the bolts into the underside of the crossmember are smaller on the TDCi/Puma. I managed to pick up a very shiney TD5 towbar complete with ball, nuts and bolts (everything needed to fit it) for £65 at Sodbury. It even still had it's part number stickers on it. The electrics are about £60 from LR (or thereabouts) and are fairly straight forward to fit with a socket up under the inner rear wheelarch, so a self-install could be much cheaper!!

However, WRT the towbar - If you want peace-of-mind and a definite knowledge that it's right for the vehicle/what you are doing with it, spec it with one on it. You might even be able to haggle one into the deal!!

Thanks Orange, The turning circle difference (circumference) between the 90 and the 110 is 0.5m according to the specs. I suspect you're right by some judicious tweeking things could be improved. Some forward planning driving is the best course of action, what with your home pulled behind you!

Thanks for the tow-bar tip, I'll endeavour to get it bundled in with the final deal, we are still in a recession you know!

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

Having owned a 90 for two years and using it for a number of things, I would go with a 110 every time unless it's a dedicated off-roader.

If and when I get another to be a 'normal car' type Land Rover, it will be a 110

In the process of chatting with my local dealer for a 110 now. No, not a dedicated off-roader...

[Wanted - photos of a 2007+ Defender 110 hard-top rear interior]

I know on paper this should be just a big open space, but could someone post me some photos of the interior of the rear load space please?

Thanks in advance.

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

A 90 does not offer you vast amounts of storage space, in fact I usually find them pretty restrictive. Admittedly you are not going to be able to turn on a dime with a 110 but you quickly learn to adapt your driving to suit.

Thanks for the feedback.

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

A 90 does not offer you vast amounts of storage space, in fact I usually find them pretty restrictive. Admittedly you are not going to be able to turn on a dime with a 110 but you quickly learn to adapt your driving to suit.

Thanks for the feedback.

[Spec'ing a new defender 90]

12mths or 12k miles.

new Puma is superb for towing, much better than my chipped td5 was. plenty of grount and a good (for a def) cruising speed vs engine revs vs noise. not as good on fuel towing as my td5 was.

a 110 will be alot more stable than a 90 for towing.

they dont come with the side windows either side of the rear door, and not a factory fit option BUT the dealer can add them in if requested.

they are no comparison to a D3 more, the D3 platform has to be the best LR tow vehicle out there. with the def you loose turning circle, comfort and the autobox!

The feedback is pointing more to a 110! My D3 is manual anyway. I know the Defender will be less comfortable and noisy. There is far more to go wrong with a D3, I don't use it much, only 9k miles in over two years. The road tax is over £400 a year. I move my van infrequently and I need more storage in my vehicle as I spend most of my time living in my caravan. Having a hardtop 90 or 110 will allow loads of stacker boxes and it'll all be out of view. The D3 is great if I had a family to lug around too. Just me 90% of the time and I know how to fix a basic Land rover. The D3!...