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TheTruckMan

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Posts posted by TheTruckMan

  1. Looks fine to me.

    All the spring tension etc comes from the actuator, so without it fitted its just a shaft and a metal flap, hence it loosely flicks back and forward!

    thanks mate, i just thaught i had broken it trying to free it lmao, i have yet to road test her yet as i am waiting for new brakes, hope this stuck wastegate has sorted my landy out as she sould strugel real bad at going 70mph on moterways, im not even going to mention what its like at 50 going up hills lol.

    if still no top end power im gana have to go get my fuel pressure and stuff checked. thanks everyone for all you help and advice muych appriciated :)

  2. When detached from the actuator, the wastegate arm should move freely back and forward. On the other end of that shaft is a metal flap.

    Internalgate_vf39.jpg

    When attached to the rod, and with no boost present, the flap stays firmly shut, directing all the exhaust flow through the turbine.

    Once the desired pressure is reached, the boost capsule pushes the rod out by enough to open the flap and start diverting exhaust gas around the turbine, so controlling its speed to ensure the boost pressure remains constant.

    If the rod isnt adjusted properly, you may find the flap opens too early, meaning the desired boost pressure is never achieved. Similarly the flap could open too late, or not at all, which would cause too much boost to be produced and (on a td5 at least) the ECU would shut off the fuel supply to protect the engine.

    thanks very much for the pic it helpd alot, i think i have borken my lever on the turbo wastegate when i was trying to free it, when i ditach the rod the lever moves very easly and feels sloppy, is this normal or is it nackerd? hears a vidio clip of me wigeling it

  3. The wastegate is inside the turbine housing. The only way you'd be able to see it, is by removing the exhaust downpipe...

    What exactly are you looking at when your moving the arm about?

    so the The wastegate is inside the turbine housing omg i feel so stupid i was looking thro the turbine with a torch and couldnot see movement, i only thaught there was a problem because when i freed the rod and lever as it was seezed i had to disconect the rod from the lever and free the sepretly and when the lever on the turbo came free it felt very lose and sloppy as if i broke it on the inside? im just wundering if this is normal, the rod however was stuck too so i just used some mole grips and wd40 an wigeld it to it came free.

  4. Pumps can go... and if you are getting funny noises when you turn the ignition on (rather than a nice whirring) then it definately sounds like your pump!

    Either that or you have a dodgy fuel filter, or there is air getting into the fuel lines.

    See the other thread in this section by someone else which explains about changing a pump... I think there may even be something in the tech archive!

    thanks for the heads up mate but i forgot to say befor that the pump aint making any funny noises i just get the whrring noise now, i only got strange noises a cupple of times after changing the fuel pressure reg,

    ((can the waste gate be seen open when disconecting the rod and moving the lever on turbo back and forth because myn is not opening at all or is this normal and it does not open unto driving to pressure gets high))??

  5. Maybe but i dont think that is your problem.

    so i should see the wastegate opening when moving when i move the arm/lever on turbo back and forth? or does it not open unto the pressure builds up? im just trying to rule this out befor i go down the route of getting pressure tests done and looking at the fuel pump as i have only coverd 43000 miles surley the pump should be ok..

  6. The arm is controlled on a vacuum that is controlled via solinoids controlled by the ecu....it should move but only under full boost

    i think i know what you mean so i have disconected the rod that conects to the arm on the turbo after lots of wd 40 and brute force the arm/lever on the turbo moves freeley but it feels a little sloopy and i can not see the wastegate opening when i move the arm back and forth..... should the wastegate be opening?? as for the rod this too felt stuck so a got a pare of mole grips and moved it in and out till it moved freely, after a lot of fiddeling trying the get the rod conected back to the arm on the turbo with out making it bigger, i have got it all back together now and still no power when i get to 60/70mph could this be because a could not see the wastegate opening??

  7. thanks for the help guys, i have checked my turbo wastegate and altho the little arm was seased i sprayd lots of wd40 on it and got it moving again but it still does not open the wastegate or does the wastegate remain closed all the time unto the preshure builds up?? as for the maf i tryd unpluging it and drove around for a bit and i noticed that made it worse and would not go over 60mph does that mean anything??

  8. hi guys my 2001 defender 90 will not go over 70 mph, it starts up fine run's smoothly and so but i just carnt seem to get over 70 mph its as if it's losing power between 60-70 mph, i have checked for fuel/air leaks found out that my fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel so had it changed today but she still runes the same so obviously this was not the problem, any help would be much appreciated :)

  9. I wouldn't recommend using sealant. A small hole somewhere and there'll be a cavity full of water under the plate. An alloy panel that's held on with alloy rivets to an alloy panel ain't going to rust anytime soon, so I wouldn't even consider that as a potential problem.

    Les.

    thanks mate i will keep this in minde whn i eventualy buy some plates

  10. the wing tops are the only bits I would use, but the rest is just overkill, those wingtops don't look like the forward end is rolled to match the vehicle panel curve.

    i know i know it is but id probly use most of the kit especialy the sills as there oxadising so bad and looks rubish, the wing tops look funny why are they not a rounded shape like they are on most websites??

  11. hi guys can anyone help me with fitting my wipac spot lamps i want these to only come on when i have my main beam on, i purched the lights second hand so i have no wiring instructions or any wire just the lamps, can you advise me on how to get them wired up so that they only come on when i have my main beam on without the use of a switch, what will i need to buy, can i get around it without using a relay or do i need one?

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