Rustyrangie
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Posts posted by Rustyrangie
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I got 3 of the screwfix ones when they were around a tenner a couple of years ago.
1 for grinding disc, 1 for cutting disc, 1 for wire brush.
When you're lying on your back under your LR (or in my case RRC) it saves loads of time not having to stop and swap discs/ wire brush etc.
And as they're only used a third of the time they should last 3 times as long.....I think. (sounds like fatfighters on little britain, "if it's only half the calories you can eat twice as much")
Bob
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I had to make up similar items for my RRC.
I did it in short lengths (500mm ish) as the flat part had to fit round wheelarches etc.
The small clark bender will do the job but, as others have said, the second bend tends to undo the first.
I made the first bend correct then did as much of the second bend as the bender could manage and finished it off using 2 lengths of angle iron in the vice and a bit of 15mm plate to hammer down the bend.
That way at least you get 2 well formed bends with nice edges. A long straight edge (1.5m spirit level) ensured the sections remained in line as they were butt welded together.
One important point. As soon as you've finished welding clean up the metal and apply a good anti-rust primer straight away.
Newly welded steel tends to rust while you're looking at it!
Alternatively, your local motor factor should have 1.2m lengths of various bent "L" sections in all the usual gauges.
These vary from 20mm X 20mm (i.e 20mm angle strip) up to 20mm X 200mm (200mm flat with a 20mm lip) plus loads of other permutations.
If you avoid the early morning and lunchtime rush the guys are usually very helpful and will show you what's available.
Hope this helps,
Bob
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Probably won't help but here goes. 3.9 hotwire with similar symptoms.
I had lumpy running, intermittent low power etc. as you describe. on petrol and LPG
everything checked out fine, CTS, TPS, compressions etc. all ignition components are newish LR OE.
The fault turned out to be an intermittent (slightly corroded) plug on the throttle pot lead.
Checked out resistance and voltage-wise ok when not running but showed up on my laptop connected to the lpg ecu.
(LPG is a single point Leonardo closed loop with lambda)
it would suddenly lose the tps signal and almost stall then start to hunt.
I reckon the vibration from the engine was shaking the plug/socket just enough to break the contact and upset the ECU.
cleaned up the plug/socket and slightly squashed the female receptacles on the plug to give a tighter connection.
Seems to have done the trick up to now.
Bob
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Hi Andy, you have a PM.
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Roof lining....
Depends on how original/plush you want it.
You're unlikely to find a good s/h roof lining unless you're very lucky, especially up North.
Replacement glass fibre linings are available round the £150 mark.
If you're not bothered about originality etc. it's a simple matter to remove the liining, pull off the cloth and foam backing then paint the fibre liner.
I used Plastikote light grey stone effect on mine ( 2 quid a tin off ebay), others have used simple household emulsion in whatever shade turns you on.
You could even buy the appropriate cloth and stick that on but use proper coach trimming adhesive as household stuff will let go when it gets warm.
Bob
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Doesn't sound too bad for that money, if he's welded ALL the problem areas properly.
It's always a problem buying sight unseen off ebay.
I once won a "best on ebay by far" (his words) RRC with LPG. turned out to be a real shed with more rust than there were places to rust and then more rust. Did I mention it was rusty?
He'd patched the rear arches after a fashion but when I was able to pull one of the patches off with my fingers he did a wobbly.
It had an ABS fault too and the LPG installation was amateurish and probably dangerous.
How much did I bid?....£1600!!!
When I saw it I just laughed and walked away.
Cost me £50 in petrol to just see it. Still, Fish and chips at Harry Ramsden's on the way home almost made up for it.
Bob
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OK.
Basically look for yank pages on Balanced converters, look for Fitch Williams write up if possible. Ignore the values and stuff
they mention as they don't have proper voltages. You will want an auto transformer to up your voltage to 420-440 volts.
then you build the converter as the yank ones, the starting caps will be of the order of 200Uf for 10hp.
the balancing caps will be ~30 and 60 Uf for the 10hp motor.
The best cap values will be found by playing around, you would be amazed[maybe not] at the possible capacitances you can
make from 10 or so caps, I bought an assortment[£60 worth] and trial and erroed it.. Your attempting to get three phases with
the same phase to phase voltage under load. I have something like 426-427-429 with the lathe cutting. the compressor drops
one of them to 400. you can add some capacitance to each machine to fine tune but it's seems to work ok how I have it.
The yanks use a potential relay to switch the caps, I couldn't find one, so made a little circuit with a resistor, capacitor
and rectifier to switch the contactors. I will add a diagram. By altering values of the components you can alter the
voltage of the generated phase that the caps are switched at. Generated voltage means the motor is spining, so once it's
spining the start caps can be removed and the run caps switched in, I did wonder about leaving the run caps in and adding
more caps for starting but I found a reason not to do it?
It's pretty simple but it runs a 5hp polisher all day without overheating it, I ran the polisher from a static converter for 15 years
and we had to cool the thing down after a few hours use.
I bought the transformer from a place called Morite windings.
The caps came from a place in merseyside, do a search for 'orange book run capacitors'
You can alter site transformers or even run a pair of smaller transformers on the output of the converter.
I built the whole thing on a bench and played with values till I got it how I wanted it.
I bolted the majority of the stuff in a box which is wall mounted, I had great plans for an automatic control for the compressor so it can be set to only come on in the day when nothing else is in use, needless to say I never got round to it. and I was going to install a 12V on off system wired round the sheds and garage so I can control it from near every three phase bit of kit. No didn't get that done either... The wall box was a fire alarm panel, It came with all those holes, the top and botom switch are on and off. The transformer lives in the blue box with the L1-L2 caps[C1-C2 on the diagram]. It could all be a lot neater but I wanted to use it.
The motor isn't shown but there is a 7.5kw[or was that 7.5hp?] idler motor which is on foam pads on the floor.
You press the on button and you have three phase.
There is only one problem with it like this, the off/on contactor coil remains on for a second or so after the converter is switched off so you need to hold the off button for a second, if you stab at it it will either pop the 32 amp breaker or if your a bit slower you will reverse the idler;-). I was going to swap the coil for a 240 volt coil but it's another thing I never got around to.
The contactors were cheap as chips from ebay..
I am sure there are some lectricians here that could improve it
If you look up converters you will find some people just running a three phase motor with no capacitors. Try it. connect switched single phase to two of the phases of a motor and spin the motor with a bit of string, when it's rotating switch on the power, it will come up to speed and if you check the voltages of the phases you have a generated voltage. I actaully ran my cutter grinder like this from an old 3 hp 3phase motor. I have found write ups where people are running commercial workshops like this! This is the basis of the rotary converter, the caps are to balance the voltages and provide a phase shift to get the idler rotating.
Should I read thru this to see it makes sense and hasn't got to many spelling mistakes? nahhh
This looks very interesting! Thank you!
Never come across it before even though I worked in electronics for 40 years. So basically you use a 3 phase motor with some capacitors to make it start up on single phase supply, then when it's running the 3rd phase is generated by the motor. Transformer & contactors to get the switching right plus a few capacitors/resistors to get the phase balance correct and away you go. Cheap 3phase industrial kit instead of cheapo chinese single phase, brilliant! Farm machinery sale up here next weekend so I'll be on the lookout for 3 phase motors and stuff!
Bob
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I'll go along with this. I had a similar problem with my wife's Merc 230, started to run rough and sometimes stall at idle.
The fault was eventually traced to a split O ring on the dipstick!
The crankcase needs to be sealed or excess air will be drawn in to the induction system upsetting the mixture.
Bob
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Sadly I believe it is an MoT issue.
My missus had the same problem on her Astra.
The Mot guy said the light should come on with the ignition switch, then extinguish after about 30 seconds.
Not on at all or always on are MoT fails apparently.
On the Astra the fault was a poor connection to a sensor under the seat which caused the self-test function to show a fault.
Bob
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Another good place to look are your local house-clearance auction rooms.
Most have Saturday or evening viewing before the sale and you can leave commission bids (they bid for you, up to your maximum) if you can't get to the actual auction.
I've seen huge vices go for less than their scrap value.
The more up to date auction rooms even have lists of their sales items on the net.
Try a google for auction houses and your town/county.
Bob
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A useful tip found on a forum recently. I've tried it and it saves a lot of time.
fix a couple of wires to a bulb bright enough to see out of the corner of your eye, 21W or so should do.
Connect this in place of the fuse. While the fault is present the bulb will light.
Then start wobbling wires etc. When the bulb goes out or flickers you're in the right area.
Then start looking for chafed wiries etc as previously mentioned.
Good luck,
Bob
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AS Integerspin says,
"Jigsaw with a eclipse hacksaw blade, pretty good on sheet. I have cut 1" ali with mine"
I'll go along with this one. I used the light blue flexible HSS blades cut into 3" or so lengths and then trimmed to fit my 50p car boot jigsaw.
I was cutting 20g sheet, clamped to my B&D workmate with a bit of 2" angle as a guide.
Very fast, accurate and CHEAP!
Bob
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I got a regulator for my missus' Merc's Bosch alternator on eb@y
put Bosch regulator into the search box and loads come up.
Hope this helps,
Bob
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oops!
Thanks to last photo I see I've put my mudflaps on wrong way round!
Bob
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Hi, nice job.
I made a very similar set up a couple of years ago.
My RRC has its LPG tank where the spare wheel should be. I didn't think the previous owner's idea of a Holts tyre re-inflator/sealer would be much use on a Rangie wheel so I got another spare wheel/tyre which then need somewhere to live.
I made my storage system wide enough to accommodate a spare wheel lying flat with a drawer alongside.
I used 15mm ERW box section welded frame with a 8mm ply top pop-rivetted on.
The spare tyre section has a removable front flap of 8mm ply.
The drawer was assembled from 8mm ply with 20mm angle strengthening.
I simply cut oval holes approx 100mm X 30mm as hand holds for the drawer and spare wheel flap.
The fronts were covered in grey carpet cut to go inside the hand holds.
The lower tailgate butts hard against the front of the drawer/flap so security wasn't an issue, although I did buy a couple of cabinet locks from screwfix which I've yet to fit.
The top also has grey carpet glued on so it looks a bit less agricultural.
It wouldn't win any design awards but it was cheap to make (about £40) and it does the job.
At the moment it's sitting behind the garden shed wrapped in a tarpaulin as I took it out last year so I could replace the rotten boot floor.
Oh the joys of Rangie ownership!
Bob
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After my queuing to get my compressor, it works well but it's BLOODY NOISY. I'm not sure if it would be quieter to run the Tdi if I needed large volumes of low pressure gas!
Anyway, I knocked up a box for it to sit in:
There are no holes to let air in or circulate - overheating might be a problem if I was spraying or using heavy air tools so I'll have to be aware. Letting air in isn't an issue; if my cabinet-making skills mean it's airtight enough that it sucks itself to the floor I'll be very pleased
I can report that it cuts the noise down very well.Know what you mean about the noise, I've got 2 of them!
I was thinking along similar lines. An MDF or chipboard box (old wardrobes from local saleroom 50p each!) but putting it against the garage wall with a tumble drier type vent to the outside.
Possibly 2 vents, one at ground level & one at the top to give some sort of airflow around the hot bits. Maybe I'll even stick a bathroom extractor fan in one of the vents for forced airflow.
I could get carried away with this.
Bob
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Probably too late but was browsing, saw this and remembered your thread.
http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/wired-fuse-box-...y-fbw-538-p.asp
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Sorry, it was from the realms of fantasy I know.
Actually I'd be terrified to let my missus in the garage. She'd start asking how much I'd spent on my toys!
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Wives/partners can be used to sweep out your garage while you're fixing their car!
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I got one too so now have a duplicate set of the "free" tools.
They'll be going on eblag soon.
Mine had a serious leak from the little pipe to the pressure switch.
It had been overtightened and the alloy pipe had just split inside the union.
5 mins with my brake flaring kit soon sorted it though.
Quicker than a 30 mile return trip to Aldi for a replacement.
Oh and don't do what I did.
After a bottle of Rioja on Friday night I was bored so went to have a play with my new toys.
Assembled the compressor as per the instructions then filled the oil up.
As I said I'd had a bottle of wine so mistook an air bubble in the oil level glass for a low oil level.
Put around a pint of oil in then switched it on.
Very spectacular! Nice fountain of oil made a graceful arc across the garage and all over the bench where I just happened to have an old radio in bits!!
Note to self....alcohol and machinery don't mix! (nor do Radios and oil for that matter!)
Bob
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The "cheapo" fittings can usually be found on tool stalls at most street markets etc.
I think mine were labelled "blackspur" or "Rolson"
Around £3 gets you 4 male fittings and one female.
Quality is fair for the price, but they can be a pain to use, either not releasing or popping off under pressure.
Bob
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Looks a superb job, well done. I did almost exactly the same job on mine last year.
I must add that it took me much longer than 4 days, nearer 4 months!
My only comment would be that I removed the ECU.
Being a retired electronic engineer I was worried about transient spikes from the welder getting into the ECU and twa!!ing, sorry upsetting it.
Also grinding dust can, and will, get everywhere so I taped up the ecu plug in a strong poly bag and did the same with the relays etc under the seat.
Electrics and iron filings don't mix. If they do the results can be quite spectacular.
Bob
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I got one of these the last time they were on offer and yes they're around 8cfm.
Super bit of kit for the money if a bit noisy.
It could do with a bigger receiver but other than that it's great.
Might even get another and run them in tandem.
Bob
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HI, while you've got the floor out it's worth checking the triangular supports on the big round chassis crossmember.
There's a nice little rust trap on the RH one where the brake pipe clip is fixed (alongside your fuel filter)
If they're rotten you'll need to cut a flap in the sloped floor to get at them for welding.
Easy job once you've done that. Then just weld the flap back. It's under the carpet so no-one will ever know.
Good luck,
Bob
I can report that it cuts the noise down very well.
Jobs to do whilst the floor is out...
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Found this when I did mine a couple of years ago. While you're checking fuel lines, brake lines etc. have a good prod around the supports at the end of the round chassis crossmember where the fuel & brake lines are clipped. The same spot on the opposite end too..
Lovely rust traps there. If you need to weld them it's much easier if you cut a flap in the floor slope and bend it out of the way.
Bob