[Land Rover jack]

There is an intresting thread here:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/31260-rebuilding-red-rover-jack-contains-1-2mb-offsite-images.html

[Intermitant wiper parking problem]

I had a similar problem with a 2003 Freelander. The fix was quite simple and has so far lasted and solved it.

The wiper motor is directly under the plastic trim at the lower edge of the windscreen, accessed from outside. Where the wires enter the wiper motor, it is 'potted' using some sort of resin. This resin degrades with time and cracks (it is also exposed to sun/rain etc through the slots in the trim).

Examining the potting, I could see the cracks, and water tracks across the terminals.

The solution I found was to remove the wipers and trim to gain access to the wiper motor.

Clean out all of the old potting resin, and thoroughly dry the contacts with a hot air gun. At this point you can test the 'parking' function of the wipers.

I then re-potted the terminal box with silicone sealant, and covered the terminal box with a lid made from plastic off-cut (again stuck on with silicone).

I hope this helps

Dave...

PS. This thread shows how to get to the wiper motor, and there is a clear picture of where the wires enter the motor.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=19719

[Bolt suppliers]

anyone got a good web address of suppliers nuts bolts and other fasteners?

http://www.namrick.co.uk/

[M8x35mm bolt sought!]

Hi, another good supplier is www.namrick.co.uk

Mail order or pick up from shop...

[Headlight relay location & dimdip removal]

Hi,

A common cause for headlights not working (dip & main) is the failing of the main switch. These switches get hot and the plastic melts allowing the second position (headlight) contact to sink. I have also seen the melted plastic run around the contact and effectively insulate it.

As a first check, I would test the main switch with a multimeter, even if it 'looks' ok.

Headlight flash will continue to work as it does not go through the main switch.

Dave...

[TD5 Rev Counter Wiring]

Hi Mark

I have done what you want to do: "kinda hoping that I can take the clock out, and plug the rev counter into a vacant plug in the loom..."

I have used the genuine Td5 rev counter Part number YAE100790. This comes without the retaining ring to hold it in place, but you can use the one from the clock.

I do not think that "If your alternator has a "W" connection on the back then any aftermarket rev counter will work".

I removed the clock and moved the other instruments to the right. The rev counter was fitted next to the speedo. This puts in directly in the line of sight and is not obscured by the steering wheel.

The rev counter has 5 terminals:

Live and Earth - For illumination, use existing wiring

Live and Earth - Ignition controlled, use existing wiring

Signal from ECU

The signal wire goes to Pin 19 of the black plug on the ECU

It seems that some Defenders have this wire already and others do not, so you may have to run it yourself. It should be a white wire with a grey trace.

The black ECU plug is an AMP Econoseal which uses .070" (1.8mm) tabs and receptacles. These are the same size as the connectors used on NAS lights, so you can usually pick up a crimp terminal and sealing plug from Ebay

The only other modification needed is to cut the connector off the clock illumination wires and replace it with standard crimp terminals to fit whichever gauge you put in the hole where the clock was.

The ECU should not need programming for this to work.

I hope this helps...

Dave...

[Td5 Injector codes help please]

My understanding is that Nanocom (or any other diagnostics) cannot "read" the actual injectors, only what is currently stored in the ECU. Therefore if the ECU has been changed in the past and the actual codes from the top of the injectors have not been re-entered it will not give the correct reading. This may explain why they are all the same?

As you now have the numbers from the top of the injectors, it is now simply a matter of using Nanocom to "write" them to the ECU.

Dave...

[td5 inlet preasure]

Hi,

From Nanocom data:

AMBIENT PRESSURE(Kpa) – This value must be 100Kpa at the sea level and decrease when the ground

height increases. A decreasing of that value related to the acceleration should indicate that the air beyond

the filter is less than required.

MANIFOLD TURBO PRESSURE(Kpa) – at idle speed must be equal to the ambient pressure 100Kpa and it

goes up to 210 (Defender) or 230 (Discovery) at engine maximum load

Hope this helps.

Dave

[3 door roof bars]

The maximum roof rack load for all models (3 and 5 door) is listed as 75 Kg.

[Regrounding TD5]

From the Nanocom website:

"For the DEFENDER vehicle often you just need to clean the ground ring terminal of the ECU's wirings located in the seatbox near the engine ECU. For the discovery the problem is harder because the ecu wirings are more complex and sometimes it is different because the cars has different equipements installed. Anyway the main ground connection of the Discovey is located near the engine ECU and the battery. Sometimes can also happen that the ground problem is in the OBD soket itself, so is possible to connect the pins 4-5 directly to the battery."

[Freelander towbar]

cheers but im having problems with the link opening, where about's is the caravan socket connector (12s)???

Sorry about the link, it appears that you need an account to get it. Basically the tow bar is just bolted on.

There is not just one plug in connector for the caravan 12s socket, which is why I would recommend the genuine LR kit.

The loom goes from the 12s socket under the bumper and behind the LH trim panel in the boot area. Here there are a couple of plug in connections, a relay, and an earth.

From here three wires have to be fed along the inside of the car under the trim/carpet. Two of these wires feed through the bulkhead into the engine bay and fit to the live of the battery (with in line fuses). The third crosses under the dashboard and connects to the fuse box below the steering wheel.

The electrical connections are quick and easy, the time is taken up removing/refitting the trim necessary to run the wires.

[Freelander towbar]

You should not need to remove the bumper.

The installation instructions can be downloaded from here if it helps: Instructions

[Freelander towbar]

All the bolt holes are ready for the tow bar, and the electric plug is behind the boot liner on the drivers side, by the rear wheel arch.

Only the 12N (lighting socket) is plugged in behind the boot liner. If you want a 12S socket as well, you will need to run wires the length of the vehicle. It is worth getting the correct Land Rover kit, which has a complete loom, relays, fuses, clips etc. Takes a couple of hours to fit. The most fiddly part is getting wires through the bulkhead under the dash into the engine bay.

[Communication device]

Nokia 3720c is IP54 rated and has Bluetooth, will pick up e-mails etc, and does not look like a rugged phone.

Nokia 3720c

[Eberspacher in a TD5]

Try the part number without the space. Microcat lists JEI100030 and JEI100040 under Discovery II.

[Trailer indicator buzzer]

From direct.gov.uk:

Minimum test vehicle requirements for a car and car and trailer test - Category B + E

Car and trailer test vehicles must be:

• fitted with externally mounted, nearside and offside mirrors for use by the examiner or any person supervising the test

• an unladen category B vehicle towing a suitably braked, unladen trailer of at least one tonne MAM - the examiner may ask for evidence of the trailer MAM eg the manufacturer's plate

• fitted with an audible or visual device to indicate correct operation of the trailer indicators

All vehicle combinations must operate on appropriate brakes and utilise a coupling arrangement suitable for the weight.

The cargo compartment of the trailer must consist of a closed box body which is at least as wide and as high as the towing vehicle. The view to the rear should only be possible by use of the external rear-view mirrors of the towing vehicle.

Looks like a buzzer or light is OK?

[Exploding sunroof]

Hi, not had this on a Defender, but did have exactly the same happen with the wife's Freelander. The roof panel exploded into shards of razer sharp glass which went everywhere, in her hair, down her clothes and all over the interior of the car.

Ended up with Land Rover replacing both glass roof panels, and re-covering both front seats, as the glass had worked it's way down into the stitching and cut the leather.

[td4 starting problem]

Could be the fuel pump under the bonnet (near to the fuse box). It will not fire up if the fuel pressure is low. Next time it turns over and does not fire, try hitting/tapping the pump. This sometimes brings it back to life temporarily and it will start.

[2004 Freelander td4 auto problems]

There is a known problem with the brake light switch. The switch fails causing the lights to be permanantly on.

There is a re-designed switch available. Land Rover part number XKB500120 (this replaces XKB000010). - Approximately £6.70

You also need an adaptor for the wiring loom if the new style switch has not previously been fitted. Part number YMQ503280 - Approx £8.16

Hope this helps....

[URGENT: Nanocom dimensions?]

The actual dimensions of the unit are 118mm long X 53mm wide, X 30mm high.

However the serial port is in one end, and the OBD connector is on the other end.

There are screw heads on both sides and the bottom of the unit that stick out as well.

[EGR valve water pipes]

If you are talking about a Td5, then later Euro III models have a cooler built in to the EGR pipe. If you are removing the EGR completely, then simply shorten the top water pipe and join it to the bottom one.

[TD5 Rev Counter Q]

I've just fitted a Defender Td5 rev counter on a 2003 model, and pin 19 on the ECU plug was empty with no wire coming from it at all.

The if this is the case, the correct crimp terminal for the ECU plug is from an 'Econoseal' connector (as used on NAS lights). These connectors come with all the correct terminals and seals for the ECU plug.

[OT: Outlook Express help]

Have you tried importing the messages:

From the toolbar: File, import, messages.

This will run an import wizard. Choose Outlook Express as the data type, then on the next page choose import from a store directory. Browse to your old data store and import.

Hope this helps...

[2002 style Defender dash panel]

Thank you western, that has answered my question exactly.

Dave...

[2002 style Defender dash panel]

Hi

I have noticed in this thread a couple of pictures of CBs fitted to the existing 'lower' Defender dash.

Could someone please confirm that this is metal (under the trim) and is Ok to use self tapping screws?

I gather that the entire lower dash is the heater chamber and that the only thing inside is the control bar for the windscreen/feet control flaps. Again, can anyone confirm the approximate position of this bar (so I don't drill into it!) when fitting a CB.

Thanks,

Dave...