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Posts posted by MRWOO
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DOT 3 & 4 fluid can be happily mixed, so no problem. could be the friction plate is stuck onto the flywheel, normally happens if a vehicle hasn't been used for ages.
Thanks Western, is this a strip down job then to sort it out?
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The old girl (1959) has been parked up all winter and since starting her up again the clutch is not working. The pedal felt soft so I have bled the system today using some DOT4 brake fluid as it has a shared brake/clutch reservoir. To no avail this has not worked maybe because it is because I have used DO4 brake fluid instead of DOT3 clutch fluid?
Does anybody know whether I should just use different fluid or whether it's the master clutch cylinder?
Cheers Rich
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18k Puma TDCi
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there are 2 links to mag articles at the bottom of this page :
you don't need to constantly alter it,
the benefits are you set it up as you want it to shift, you don't need to adjust the kickdown cable to get the best compromise as you often have to with conversions when the autobox is not designed for that vehicle with that engine.
you can adjust all shift points, pressure, converter lock up and kickdown parameters very easily to make it drive 'factory' as you want it with no compromise, with the bonus of having it 'tiptronic' if you want to.
you can do it hydraulically and you will save a few quid but it won't drive nearly as well, we did many hydraulic TD5 auto conversions before the compushift and they were OK but rarly perfect, the electronic compushift ones are spot on every time.
sorry if this sounds like an advert but he did ask ! I honestly think they are very very good,
(please delete if I have overstepped the commercial content mark)
Dave.
Great article in LRM, I am looking forward to reading how it drives in the March Issue!
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You mean apart from the fact that he was driving one, and the whole case concerns it?
Les.
I thought as much?
What about the footballer on the M6 (that drove a Range Rover) that inadvertently drove into a car killing a family of 5. Shall we start that debate aswell?
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Leave the poor "Gresh" family alone and get back on track! there is alot of emotion here that has f*ck all to do with Land Rover's!
RIP
For anyone that wants to leave a clever response go and leave it on here instead - http://www.psychologicaladvice.com/pages/options/forum.html
PS - I have a 1959 Series II, has anyone got some spare door hinges
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Channel 240 Discovery Anytime - Wheeler dealers, there is two episodes where they are doing up a Series III 1981 and converting it to LPG.
Cheers Rich
SKY+ it
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I read something in LRO about this and did a quick scan to find this:
http://www.domain-b.com/companies/companie...r_business.html
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Problem solved, it is the main beam dip switch/lever part #XPB101290
So another fix to add to the archive, if you have no main or dipped lights but the flash works it may well be this part that needs replacing.
Cheers and thanks for the help...........
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Has the vehicle ever been fitted with higher wattage bulbs?
There is a rivet on the stalk assembly that has a copper strip from it that goes between the loom connection and the high/low switch in the stalk.
This may have heat damage, possibly due to overload, ie, higher wattage bulbs or aux lamp relay switch load, etc. The plastic of the assembly melts and the contact that the rivet should fasten becomes loose and the electrical conductivity is broken.
Try using a small piece of wire to bridge the rivet and see what happens.
Please let us know how you get on....
Timpo.
I'm in Cheshire myself if your stuck, I could come take a look.
Thanks for that I'll check it out in the morning and let you know what happens
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Just to update, only the flash works, so when I pull back on the switch the spot and main beam comes on. when I leave the stick in the middle or push forward for main beam I only get side lights. I agree it sounds like a relay, but which one? would this be one of the factory fitted relays or the one the mechanic fitted when I had the spots installed?
Thanks in advance Rich
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Does full beam work?
Might be the switch.
Yes full beam works ok
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Driving home from work this evening mainly on dip I pulled into my drive and the dipped lights went out leaving just the sidelights on. I have spot lights wired in the standard way using a relay and this orientation has all been working fine for the last 12 months. I have checked all the fuses and none are blown, any ideas on what I should check next?
Thanks Rich
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24000 miles probably one of the highest mileage ones!
1. No mechanical problems
2. No bodywork problems
3. 34mpg
4. 70 mile commute every day
Definate progress as far as I'm concerned
1. Grease UJ's every 3k
2. Change engine oil every 6k
3. Change all transmission lubricants every 12k
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The first two links seem to refer more to Spark Ignition Engines (petrol) but the third link does have a more interesting section
The thing any of the links fail to mention is the problems caused by EGR's... (copied from my post in the internation section - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=28642)
The problem with Td5 EGR valves (and 300tdi for that matter) is that over time the carbon (and sludge) build up prevents the valve from sealing correctly, which results in exhaust gas bleeding past all of the time. If the percentage of EGR gets too high (and is being passed all of the time) it can lead to serious problems - including rapid bore wear, reduced MPG, increased smoke and poor acceleration. There has been numerous SAE papers written about this.
Another factor to consider is on what diesel you use in your Td5...
In the UK it isn't such a problem, but if you travel overseas and use high suplher diesel you find the EGR pipes become corroded.
Bit more info - http://irbdevelopments.com/EGRexplan.html
Not saying I'm right, but this is my understanding.
Also... if your EGR kit is one of the Britpart ones off EBAY, I'd be very tempeted to fit two jubilee clips where the intake pipes goes onto your replacement inlet section!! The ones on EBay do not have any addtional method to prevent the pipe from being blown off under boost pressure, and instead rely on the reistance from the jubilee clip - not ideal!!
Ian
Thanks for this info Ian, it's good to hear that you work alongside Pete at BAS with your developments, I'm currently undertaking tests to help Pete fine tune EGR blanking in the Puma Defender.
So far the plate seems to eliminate alot of problems we suffering from, such as irratic idles and increased rough/engine noise (like mine).
The problem Pete is trying to cure for us is how to keep the engine lamp off?
Regards Rich
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According to these two reads, the EGR helps to reduce combustion temperatures and detonation, any thought?
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov97/gas.htm
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I bought a Ford Transit workshop manual off ebay (on CD) for about £3, this covers the engine and gearbox. For everything else use existing manuals.
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I have an 07 defender that does not have a centre seat, I dont think think Land Rover have been putting centre seats in for some time now. I am guessing that they dont fit them anymore becuase they either want to sell the seat as an option or a nice cubby box instead of the centre tray.
Currently I have a nice cubby box that I dont really want to take out but I have a need quite often to transport 5 passengers, the wife and 3 kids. It would be nice if we could all fit in the Land Rover.
Does anybody know if there are any law implications with me fitting a centre seat (plenty on ebay from the cubby box converters)?
I also plan to fit a decent 3 point harness seat belt for the centre seat that I'll have to some strong fixing points fabricated for.
Thanks Rich...
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I'm just writing to see if anybody else has experienced this problem and may know if there is actually a problem or not.
My Defender (puma) has now covered just under 20k without any issues at all. But now, I am experiencing what can only be described as a much louder engine noise/vibration at around 1900rpm's in all gears. The noise/vibration is more noticeable in 5th and 6th with there being extra load on the engine. I cannot work out whether the cause is actually transmission or engine related but the engine does sound noticeably louder and not as smooth as it used to be before I noticed the change.
Does anybody know if this is a problem?
PS I did think it may have been the EGR valve sticking but there is no black smoke whatsoever which from reading is a typical symptom of that problem
Many Thanks Rich
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Thanks for this I have used one of the links to buy some needle adaptors that I am assured will help me out!
http://www.allube.co.uk/pdfs/grease_gun_accessories.pdf
Cheers
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I have tried to grease the prop shafts this weekend on my puma defender and have found it very difficult to get the grease nipples to take any grease. I have got 3 different grease guns all with the same size adaptor on and only one of them seems to lock on and get any grease in there (I've still only managed two of the grease points so far). The nipples cant be blocked due to the age, I'm just wondering have I got cheap and nasty adaptors or are the nipples of a different size?
any clues anyone?
cheers Rich
just out of interest how often do other people do theres? I'm doing mine as an intermediate service between the 12k interval (every 6k in otherwords)
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If you don't like it, buy an older car and pay £180 per year or even £0 if it's tax exempt - you're also reducing your carbon footprint by re-using an already made vehicle.
I doubt the government's reasons are purely environmental, but they do unwittingly help the argument
Both my gas-guzzling 4x4's are 100% recycled too
I'm moaning about the Gorvernment not the Land Rover, and Ive already got a tax exempt Series 2 anyway. Perhaps I'll just drive that instead and get rid of the new one
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What's your definition of a gas guzzler ??? (Did this start you????)
I don't consider my 4.6 to be a gas guzzler....
Several reasons:
- I don't run the car on "gas"... I use Unleaded Petrol
- I believe that 14mpg is good from that engine the way I drive it
- I don't go to Chelsea in my 110
- The 110 doesn't actually "drink" the fuel... It burns it as part of the combustion process to make it nice and loud, go Vrooooooom and makes me smile....
Funny but my VED annually still under £200..... Therefore I conclude my vehicle is less of a polluting beast than yours...
Neil
Coat on.... Door open.....
Neil you've got me all wrong, I havn't a problem with the vehicles it s the people that moan about them being Gas guzzlers!!!
ps my 1959 series 2 has no tax therefore I conclude my other landrover vehicle is less of a polluting beast than yours...
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Just had the V11 reminder through from our friends at DVLA and the renewal for 12 months was £300 when I received it a week ago, I have just renewed it online and yes it's now changed to £400 . What happend to the rule that Labour would only apply their new Road Tax rules to new vehicles not ones which are 12 months old (bought mine may 07).
I wouldn't even need a bloody Land Rover if the roads where I lived weren't like farm tracks and they actually spent my raod tax on them.
Please please dont vote this government in again, they are an absolute shambles....
dont even start me on gas guzzling polluters!!!!!!!
Def 90 [year 97] Dim Dip Headlight Problems - Help!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
This has happened to me before on a 2007 defender, not sure if the part is similar to 97 year but it was down to the indicator/main/dip stalk. On the TD5 and 2007> defender the stalk comes comes with a multi-task switch that failed. What you decribed is exactly what happened to me. Main bean and flash but no dip