Dollywobber
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Posts posted by Dollywobber
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I'm sure the wires for the resistor are linked directly to the heater unit itself. In the rave/manual it says the resistor is behind the bonnet grill (the ones next to the window) passenger side one (uk). Simple enough to get off etc. I had a thread not long ago on it. Try searching my threads
Just done that. Definitely no resistor sitting where yours was. I notice a chap with a 1989 heater unit says the resistor was in the unit itself. If that's the case with mine, I guess I'll be trying to get the end of the heater unit off... (guessing the unit has to come out for that? Or can you just get enough access with it in situ? I've had enough of removing bits of dash!)
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Aye. That's what the new one looks like. Cannot find the old one though. Did they ever fit them anywhere other than under the scuttle? And where do the wires that plug into the resister come from?
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Howdy folks
When I got my 1990 VM-converted Rangie, the heater blower only worked on position III with the air con switched on (though it doesn't blow cold). "No worries," I though - I purchased the after-market resistor pack. Finally got around to stripping the dash out - took this option because try as I might, I could not find the resistor in the stated place under the scuttle panel.
What I discovered was chopped wiring - not the first bit I've found on this vehicle. I think I found the correct cable - the one that runs into the heater unit itself. What's confusing me is that this has male fittings, as does the new resistor pack. The female section has only two wires present - one of which seems to be aiming for the heater control, which would make sense. Three other wires have been chopped off.
So, I've got my Range Rover interior in pieces and am utterly confused as to how to proceed. Any tips? Have I got the correct connector? Where should the resistor actually be?
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Thanks David. Have been in touch with Wye and Welsh and the North Wales Landy Club. Both seem to offer the sort of thing I'm after.
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Thanks. The local clubs around here seem to do rather extreme trialling with extensively modified stuff. Don't really want to spend tons of cash I don't have just to find out whether I enjoy it or not. Some clubs further east look more promising though, so I'll give 'em a go.
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Howdy folks
I'm very interested in competing in trials in my completely stock Range Rover Classic. Bit disheartened that everywhere I look, I seem to find hugely modified machines and roll cage requirements. Sure, one day, that might be a lot of fun, but I'm on a tight budget and want to use the vehicle I already own.
I'm based in West Wales. Does anyone have any suggestions for who I need to speak to? Laning is fun, but the idea of precision driving in a trial is very appealing.
Thanks
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Super. Thanks.
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Quick query. The passenger mirror on my RRC is rubbish for two reasons. One - it just doesn't show enough of what's behind me as it isn't wide angle. Two - it's wobbling around a lot (the glass, not the housing). So, in an ideal world, I'd replace it with a wide angle glass. Are they available? If I have to, I'll resort to the stick-on blind spot mirrors, but I'd rather avoid them. I just like to be able to see the rear wheel as well as have a wider field of vision.
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Not yet. Got the Haynes BOL though, so I'll give it a go. Might have to wait a few days due to other activities. Is nice to have it back though. While the turbo certainly is laggy, I love how quickly it can go without having to rag it.
One other 'eccentricity' we've discovered is that the oil breather pipe from the top of the engine runs straight to a catch bottle rather than the air filter. Presume it's pumping too much oil out. Is there a valve there somewhere that's caput or something more sinister? (My 2CV has a faulty breather, so also pumps a lot of oil into the air filter. That's also on the to do list...)
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Got the Rangie back after the brake debacle. New (second hand) pump is nice and quiet and cuts out when it should. However, the ABS light is still on. Computer has been plugged in but reports no faults. Any ideas what next? The ABS system definitely isn't cutting in (which is ok. I can deal with that as long as I know!).
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I didn't actually fit the pump and haven't seen the car yet, but I understand that it's the same as that used on the LSE, so still with separate accumulator. Cost me £75 - which doesn't seem bad at all.
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I've been busy putting my 2CV's engine together, so someone else has had a look at this now. Seems the pump was iffy - it was certainly making one heck of a noise. New pump fitted and it seems to be bleeding up properly, and the pump is back to cutting out swiftly again (ie runs for about 5 seconds after a few prods of the brake pedal).
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Odd. It definitely went a bit wrong after I'd done the rear caliper. I was pretty sure I hadn't let the fluid drop down below the critical level, yet still got the noisy pump with air in the system. I know there's air because when I let the fluid dribble out from the pump bleed nipple, there are bubbles in it. A light touch on the brake pedal makes the pump much quieter.
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Thanks folks. Some useful input. I'll let you know how I get on...
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I know this is a VERY hot topic, but having some odd issues trying to bleed the brakes on my RRC. I have not used a pressure bleeder, so you might well all tell me that's where I'm going wrong, but I'd like to run it past you anyway.
With the system correctly depressurised, cracking a rear caliper (more so the nearside) and pressing the brake pedal results in a very small amount of fluid coming out. Pedal remains hard. Offside rear produces a bit more fluid. ABS pump very, very little - some will seep out if you open the nipple fully. The pump is now running continuously and is very noisy - in a 'full of air' kind of way. Brakes work well regardless but obviously I'm not going to go for a drive with a continuously running pump. Opening the pump nipple with the pump running results in the same gradual trickle of fluid - it doesn't come out with enough force to go down a tube if connecting up a bleeder.
Is this normal if not using a pressure bleeder?
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Thanks Mickey. It's the 2.5, so goes pretty well. More punch than a Tdi - albeit with more lag apparently. I'll keep this thread updated with progress. Wish it was possible to Edit thread titles!
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Progress with the electric windows! Stripped the passenger door down and removed the motor. I could hear it trying, but it wasn't going anywhere. So, decided to pull the thing apart and see how it worked, seeing as I thought I'd have to buy a replacement anyway. After spraying a bit of grease around, I managed to free off the bit of the motor that's activated by the magnets (commutator?). Plug it back in and it was spinning around a treat. Next job - the gearbox itself. Again, a bit of spray grease and some gentle persuasion with pliers and that was free. Had some issues getting the whole thing back together again at first, but brute force and ignorance did the trick. Result? A working electric window! Very pleasing.
Now plan to do the same with the rears, though I wonder if I've got a short somewhere as it's blowing fuses without me even pressing the buttons.
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Thanks. As I'm heading to a specialist anyway, I'll just let them do it on this occasion. Links filed away for future use though! Weather is entirely against any further work at the moment.
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Right. More door card stripping to do then! I still reckon manual windows are the best...
Thanks.
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Have a pic.
Had an enjoyable laning trip yesterday - not far, but enough to get a feel for the thing off road. Then the pump started kicking in continuously again...
Bled the system today, but couldn't seem to get anything out at the pump. Certainly air bubbles elsewhere and the pump is now cutting out as it should - but is still noisy. Should do until I visit a specialist next week, who'll also ask the ABS system why it's putting the light on.
So, moved on to other matters. Electric windows. I'm getting power to the left-front window it seems, but no movement, so I guess the motor's at fault. The rears are a different matter however. The fuse was blown. Replacing that got the right rear window working - for a bit. Now it's blown the fuse again. A common fault?
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Thanks. I will give it a bleed, purely because it's also noisy - reminds me of my LR 90's power steering pump when that had a leak - though thankfully it isn't that loud...
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Drat. Pump isn't cutting out now. Guess some bleeding is still in order then!
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Phew. Sounds alright then. I did keep a very close eye on the level to avoid getting trapped air but only bled the rear caliper itself, hoping that air wouldn't have got in anywhere else. Thanks!
I have been up to 60mph (at which point some dozy tourist pulled out in front of me! Good job the brakes work...) and the light is still on, so something is still amiss. I'm not surprised - the bulb for the ABS warning could only have been removed for a reason!
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New battery arrived today. Chucked it on and even though it was only at 12.3 volts, it cranked into life. Given it a run to charge it up and we'll see if it can now hold charge for more than a few hours...
I still haven't bled the brakes, though everything seems to be working fine. However, with the engine off but ignition on, the pump kicks in after three pumps of the brake pedal and is quite noisy. Runs for a few seconds and shuts off. Light stays on so still need to do a 'blink' test. Does this mean there's still air in the system? I'm not planning on going for any lengthy drives until I'm happy with it.
RRC Heater resistor trauma
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Confusing. Does seem that some definitely has the resistor inside the heater unit, which is how this is looking.