Bumpyride
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cheers
called LR dealer Beadles, they say it was a standard factory fit spare. You apparently only got a full sized one if you specified that option.
anybody got any experience driving with them?
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Gents
A simple one,
I have recently purchased a 1999 TD5 discovery, which is all very posh for my usual rides.
I forgot to check the spare, having now brought and in preparing to do a long trip, I notice the spare is a different size to all others.
The fitted front and rears are all 255-60-R18, and match the size listed in the owners manual. The spare is 255-65-R16.
All are "official Discovery Alloys", so I'm puzzled why they are different sizes, the rest of the vehicle is pristine and is main dealer serviced, so it seems a bit odd, especially as it has a original spare wheel cover. Would LR have supplied different sizes?
But in any case the main question is am I OK to use the smaller spare, as backup or do I risk damage to the driveline components if I need to fit.
As always
Cheers guys
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i've tried ADAC also, but had a similar experience - no replya
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Gents
Any advice or past experiences? with red star equity european recovery.
Am insured through sureterm, they inform me that i'm automatically covered for fully comp insurance in europe. Plus offered a european upgrade to the uk recovery option which i took out when signing up to the insurance. Breakdown cover by red star insurance.
I have a 25year old defender, which makes it hard to get breakdown cover for in europe. So this seemed ideal, plus its only 30quid to extend it to europe.
The word suggests they will recover to the UK if i breakdown and also offer the replacement vechicle etc.
However as the AA / RAC etc and the carvavan club all quote 100-125pound then i'm a bit nervous of the quality of service the red star cover will offer.
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In doing some other work on the 110, i came accross the rear offside and front drivers side hub bolts being loose. All had become loose and started to undo, by about 3-4mm.
I seem to recall using a spot of loctite when doing them up.
Has anybody else had this problem?
Any idea of causes? Do it suggest any vibration problems?
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cheers guys.
ill go with the standard springs - on the paddocks site they are all aftermarket parts, i assume britpart. Is the advice these are not so good?
If so whos spring should i be buying?
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-cheers guys, nice suggestions.
Both pretty much the same price. 90-95 quid each.
For info Paddocks no longer do the Kumho KL78 AT apparently not inported to the UK anymore!!! Not so sure if i believe this!
cheers again
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Gents
Tyres again, i'm sorry, checking through some of the old posts but most seem to be on the mosre aggressive tyres.
I current have Marshall 235/85/R16's All terrain’s.
I find them not too noisy, pretty good off road, only poor when it gets really muddy.
However most use is daily to work plus green laning weekends.
The old bus (1987 110 hard top) generally rattles along at 50-60mph.
The Marshall need replacing and have the same tread (same company) as the Kumho KL78 AT of the same size, currently best i've seen is via paddocks at £89+vat.
I'm planning on treating the old beast to four new ones, and keep one old one as a spare.
What’s the general opinion of these tyres? are there better buys out there, I don't want to be spending big bucks and don't need mud terrain.
I've also tried GOODYEAR LT235/85R16, these i found pretty noisy.
Cheers in advance
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Gents
While minding my own business driving over a road hump, i had a nerve gangling bang, after investigation this proved to be the passenger spring snapping.
Thus i need to replace both the driver and passenger side springs.
I was going to also replace the struts and possibly the cones as well.
Can i check what bushes do you also need and do these come with the struts?
Plus was planning on the standard height,heavy duty Britpart springs with their new Cellular Dynamic Front Shock absorbers DC6000.
Anybody have any thoughts on this?
LR is a 1987 110 hardtop, not a lot loading typcially.
cheers?
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cheers,
checked alternator belt - there is play, but under no load no sweeking.
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Gents
200 tdi engine - no major problems todate.
Recently a squeeking noise at start has been getting progressively worse. When idiling there no noise only once accerlator is depressed about 1/4 of the stroke. Thought it was the alternator belt slipping, but....
Really gets quite loud tonight. Nearly enough to pull over. After 5 mins it stopped, so thinking along the line of something warming up.
engine oil fine and doesn't sound like an engine fault, more aulixary.
Suggestions
Water pump?
Viscous fan - this is usually locked on so runs constantly regardless of engine temp.
thanks in advance
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cheers guys,
thanks for the offfer of the sides, but by the time i have changed the sides, repainted and then the cost of pick-up i think it i'll be better off arming myself with a jigsaw.
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Gents
I am planning on fitting side windows, to my hardtop 110.
i had until reading threads on here planned to fit the the sliding 90 style ones, however have seen reference to fixed ones for the 110.
Looking for the cheapest option.
As far as i can find the paddock sliding ones (non deluxe) are the lowest cost, they are not orginial equipment.
Anybody had any experience with the paddock ones, are they any good?
Also any other advice?
cheers
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Cheers for your comments
But I've seen references on other forums to change of status for hardtops
Can Anybody shed any light on this?
Also anybody got a filter fitted?
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Gents,
With Jan 2012 coming ever closer, has anybody had any luck in getting an emept status.
By this i mean for a Hardtop 110. Please for those of you lucky enough to have an orgninal CSW them please let this post concentrate on hardtops and pickups.
I have 9 seats (sideward facing) which have been in since i brought it, but no windows, however these appear to be a non factory addition as its not listed on the VIN as 9 seats
From my conversations with the limited intelligence TFL people the simple to use flowchart has been removed and other than the online checked is the only reference source.
Has anybody sucessfully re-listed a hardtop as a CSW?
If so what mods did you do, how hard was it getting it through the DVLA, what cost and are you now exempt?
Has anybody persuaded both the dvla and TFl by cutting windows in the back of a hardtop and adding sideward facing seats?
Anybody got through as per the old flowchart of listing the LR as having 9 seats?
Anybody had a filter fitted?
How much? If so how big are they - are you likely to damage offroad?
cheers for your help,
please guys can i request only useful suggestions and not the usual list, change engine, don't go to london etc etc etc, i serious need a final answer before possibly selling the beauty.
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thanks gents for the replys to date.
has anybody tried 2 converting or at least claiming a minibus convertion, with sidewards facing seats? Or secondly changing the body physically to a station wagon and then sending photos to TFL?
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Gents
I’d read through the previous discussions concerning the LEZ and think I have a reasonable idea of the options tabled, however I haven’t really got a good feel for the level of success people have had with each idea. Plus much of the intelligent discussion is punctuated by some not so intelligent comments.
I sure I’m not alone in having a commercial LR living in London and wish to avoid /can’t afford to replace it in Jan 2012.
So I thought I’d do my best and list the options available to us and try to appraise which methods work in removing the vehicle from the list. Guys I’d appreciate its a bit if a read but if you have any comments and additions should I have missed anything. I thought it would be useful to have a one stop doc to help owners on what to do. At then end of the day we all just want to avoid losing our pride of joys.
The comments below are based on two documents, firstly the V05 listing and secondly the TFL flow chart which can be found as a pdf at. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=64203
The flow chart specifically lists Landrovers and so claiming they are designed for off-road use is a no go.
Below focuses on 90/110’s but I would think the same logic could be applied to series 2+3.
Route 1: DVLA Listing.
Should the DVLA V05 list the vehicle Body Type as anything other than an estate, such as a sports utility vehicle or a light goods vehicle, then TFL view the vehicle as potentially coming under LEZ.
Can I confirm All 110/90’s even station wagons will be listed a light utility 4x4?
If the 90/110 is for some reason listed as an estate then it’s a matter of notifying the Transport for London that they have misclassified the LR and you need to be removed from the list on non-exempt vehicles.
If so is this 100% successful? Has anybody failed with this method?
If your 90/110 is an original factory fitted Station wagon, then digit 7 of you VIN will read B for a 3 door station wagon – I assume this only is applied to the 90 wheel base. For the 5 door station wagon ie a 110, the letter is M.
As the VIN can not be changed then a non factory fitted station wagon can not claim emption by this route. If you do have a B or M then as per page 5 of TFL’s flowchart (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=64203) (Post 2.) you should be exempt, to get official notification you notify TFL with pictures etc.
Has this been 100% successful? Has anybody had any problems with this route?
The Taxation Class – all defenders are PLG Private light goods. This is the same as cars etc and so can not be used to identify LR’s as non compliant.
Route 2:
If:
1.Your V05 reads light goods
2.You don’t have an original county station wagon
Then….. You have 4 options.
1.Try to claim a station wagon style by means of pictures.
a.How successful is this? Has anybody been refused?
2.Claim minibus conversion as per Pg 5 of the flow chart, requires exactly 9 seats if so as per Pg 3 of the flow chart its exempt.
a.Do sideward facing seats count? If so can we just add these to a hardtop and claim a minibus.
i.Noting it would be a minibus without seatbelts.
ii.Do you need to add rear windows?
b. Convert a 110 to a station wagon style –, new tub and rear bulkhead required. 5 forward facing sets, 4 sideways fold down ones in the back. If you do this then is it more appropriate to claim as a station wagon as per Pg 5 of the flowchart.
3. Convert to a motor caravan, ambulance / hearse. Not the easiest or most desirable options.
4.Fit a filter.
a.Discussion suggests £1-2K and there appears to be a lack of manufacturers information.
Finally what is the potential to bypass this by re-applying for a v05 – ie as an Q reg, ie you have replaced enough parts to re-list and therefore can relist with the LR as a station wagon. If you go this route then insurance cost will no doubt rise and you will need a DVLA local inspection.
Thoughts appreciated.
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Hi
been in a similar position myself, mainly through thinking whats it going to matter if i more bit comes off.
I would replace anything that is a sod to do once the body work is back on.
so all bushes, if looking lihe they might need doing. Especially the A frame one.
Anything that in the Transfer box / axles that is causing play in the transmission.
suspension parts, steering
On second thoughts any job that has restricted access with the bodywork on.
But personally i removed as much rust as possible, and replaced a chassis outrigger and then wayoyled inside and outside of the chassis as best i could (using a plant sprayer). So mush easier with the body work off Plus painted the underside of the body work.
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matt cheers for the comments
1: voltage drops to 11.2v
2: done this with no effect
3: have socket will try in the week
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Unfortantly the hammer didn't have the desired effect, no movement of the solenoid yet.
strange you should mention the engine being free to turn, had a similar thought myself, other than engaging gear and trying to push it - which i couldn't manage! am i being a little thick and missing the obvious way to check this?
Secondly wired up a spare starter motor from the same battery and the solenoid goes in no problem, however the volts do drop from 12.2v to 11.2volt when the solenoid is energised - which still makes me think the battery could be questionable.
Also wired the starter motor solenoid up direct from the battery via a switch to make sure there wasn't excessive resitance in the wiring- this had no effect either.
Then finally tried connecting the LR via jump leads to a Vauxhal Corsa battery and tried to start (with Corsa running) in effect jump starting with the LR battery out of circuit.
So do you think its reasonable to conclude the Solenoid is definatley stuck?
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cheers errol, arming myself with a large fixing stick, if no luck then i'll admit defeat a purchase a battery charger!
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Had a further investigation this morning - bonnet off to allow better access. Plus i have cleaned and greased all contacts
The Feed from the ignition is providing 12volt to the solenoid coil, when attempting to start, if tested with the ignition wire off of the starter motor. However if repeated with the wire connected to the solenoid coil and again trying to start then the voltage drops to around 9-9.5 volts. To me this seems to be a bit low as if it is a problem with the battery, not having enough power to shuttle the solenoid? What do you think?
Still no noise from the solenoid coil moving etc. If we were to assume the Coil was stuck - ive read the section in the manual, but before i remove are there any tricks to try to make it unstick? I've tried a light tapping of the casing of the starter and solenoid.
cheers guys
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Cheers Martin
when I try to start – if I have the lights on I do see a slight dimming – which to me suggests that the starter motor is receiving the direct supply of current from the battery am I correct in thinking that for this to occur the solenoid needs to move or does the solenoid just mechanically engage the motor pinion?
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Gents
I wonder if you maybe able to help me.
I have a 200tdi engine fitted into a 2.5na vehicle which currently won’t start – which I duly found out on Christmas morning.
Anyhow, the engine normally runs fine, and starts on the first attempt – no matter how cold it is. So no indication of any troubles ahead.
However the current situation is that there is no attempt to start – by which I mean no rotation or noise from the starter motor / no relay clicks etc.
Originally I had presumed the battery, however the voltage is 12volt across the terminals, and the lights are fine – normal brightness. PLUS It is a new Tanya unit. Plus I’ve have taken it to Halfords – for the free test – this it past no problems with enough power to start a tank according to them!
Therefore my attention turned to wiring, as previously mentioned I have a 2.5 na wiring set up and thus no glow plug timer relay – I just hold the key in for a few seconds before engaging the starter motor.
So my wiring has the red+white running from the ignition switch direct to the starter motor – which I understand to be the energising link for the starter motor solenoid.
I have checked the red-white voltage and get 12v when turning the key at the ignition switch, I also hear the click and see 12volt at the terminals of the brake check relay – which I directly wired into the same wire.
The glow plugs also receive 12volt upon trying to start via the brown and red wire.
So it looks like the solenoid is receiving excitation. – but I hear no sound of it moving.
Secondly when I try to start – if I have the lights on I do see a slight dimming – which to me suggests that the starter motor is receiving the direct supply of current from the battery am I correct in thinking that for this to occur the solenoid needs to move or does the solenoid just mechanically engage the motor pinion?
Regardless would I expect to hear the noise of the solenoid moving?
Does anybody have any suggestion on the next move? – despite removing the heat shield I’m finding it hard to get to the red + white terminal on the starter motor - to ensure that its receiving voltage.
cheers in advance - apologies if the post is a little long!
brownchurch roofrack ladder
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Gents
Refitting a brownhurch roof rack after a number of years (10), the rack fits fine but the rear ladder, when lined up with the rack mounting points, doesn't line up with an holes on the rearcross memeber / panels.
I would have thought it was secured by the rear cross member / bolt bolts. But requires the reversing light to be moved upwards by 10mm. As it was orginally fitted this seems odd. have i lost a lower bracket which goes between the ladder and rear cross member?
Also there are 4 bolts on the securing plate, i presume i use 2?
Can someone post me a picture of a ladder fitted.
cheers