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cactus jack

Getting Comfortable
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Posts posted by cactus jack

  1. I have a disco 1 which seems to have a problem with the clutch . The fluid bottle has been losing small amounts of fluid but can't see where from. I now have to bleed the clutch every couple of days. Is it the slave cylinder that's gone? Ive heared that there is a problem with the pin falling through the bell housing when changing these, what do I need to lookout for if I change the slave cylinder?

  2. Is correct.

    But have a look at how the old panel was attached. Some are part seam welded & part spot.

    Thanks for all the coments, I have now completed the welding and endless list of other jobs, and guess what, the mot is now passed!!!!!! (after five days hard work).

  3. Thanks for the advice, it looks like I'll have to set aside time to cut out and replace both sills---- plus part of inner front wheel arch, swivel joint, wheel bearings, transfer box seal, handbrake shoes!!!!!!!

  4. I have been doing some welding to the rear of the inner wheel arch in front the rear wheel, but discovered that the body mounting to inner sill was also rotten. I spent severn hours welding and fabricating this area, but noticed that the rest of the sill wasn't looking great. What does the mot require of these sills, being a discovery, it has a separate chassis of course, so the sills are not structural are they?? <_<

  5. I think the leak and the clonk may be two separate issues...

    unless a bearing has failed, causing a clonk, and a leak.

    I did mean gearbox, the output shaft from the main gearbox is what wears away.. as the splines are not lubricated where it enters the transfer box, later disco's (300tdi) had a cross-drilled input gear in the transfer box which splash-lubricated the mainshaft..

    the PTO cover is the round disc on the back of the transfer box, it has either 6 or 7 bolts holding it on...

    Ok, thanks. I think i will do the seal first, so that I have dry brakes for the m.o.t and let the other problem develop or until funds allow.

  6. yeah, the input shaft from the main gear box... the splines are nut lubricated properly on 200Tdi's and can wear... causing the clonk you can hear/ feel...

    if you take the PTO cover off, then remove the bearing support (2 big screws) you can withdraw the transfer box input gear and inspect it... if its dry inside, and full of swarf, its new gearbox time.... if its on the way out, the splines will look worn on one side...

    Thanks for the advice. Is this easy to inspect and how long will it take?, where is the PTO cover, and do you mean that I need a new gearbox or transfer box? If I just do the seal, will it stop the leak so that I can hold out for a while?

  7. :blink: I have a leak comming from the transfer box seal into my handbrake drum. I also note that there is a clunk when changing gear. From underneath, I grabbed the rear propshaft and can hear the clunk comming from the transfer box near the handbrake drum. Is there anything I should look at while I am changing the seal which could be causing the clonk?????

    post-2941-1173895840.jpg

  8. Noticed the beast tends to wander around a bit when I get above 50 mph. :huh:

    Can anyone confirm that this is simply a normal trait for having no anti roll bar, 3" lift, and oversize wheels and tyres fitted?

    Doesn't seem to be any play in the steering tbh.

    I had this problem a few weeks ago, and I changed the swivels and wheel bearings only to find it was the same!!! I then changed the steering box and it is now like a new disco- perfect steering.

    post-2941-1173484863.jpg

  9. Have you thought of a jonsered?? Apparently, made by husquvana and just as good. I bought one last year and it eats through trees. It was cheaper than the equivelant huski too, and if parts are required they are the same as huski.

  10. ;) I have had trouble with the crankshaft pulley coming loose. I have taken the pulley off and can see that the keyway has been gauged out by the key, so I have purchased a new damper. I poked a scribe inside the hole in the cover and can feel whatever is left of the key, but cannot see it (don't want to take timing belt cover etc off). Some say to fit the new damper with plenty of threadlock or chemical metal. Any ideas????
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