mwgriffiths
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Posts posted by mwgriffiths
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Will, you should have a PM, sorry I took so long to get back to you
Long time no update.
So, what have I achieved? Well:
- Suspension is on, and just needs setting up properly
- One of the new engines is in
- Most of the oil and water lines are done
- Bodywork is finished
Just a bit of wiring left to do now
The all important photo's:
Did I not mention I wasn't on about the RR?
Yes unfortunately I've been a tad distracted with this of late, so nothing has happened on the Range Rover, and I very much doubt too much will happen before August at this rate
Matt
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This is why I love flickr and dropbox
Hassle free and works every time -
Looks tidy
Ro's would set it off perfectly imo, I think I'm going to keep mine for road tyres, with some mods for the MTs (This plan is about a day old, so liable to change any minute now )Full rebuild on a 72 in Lincoln Green? Who on earth would do that??
Hi, couldn't see any pics, but look forward to seeing em. Whereabouts are you?
Only a crazy person would restore one of those silly 2 doors
Don't tell me where you live or you're liable to have me come round and steal bits off it have a mooch about
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Modchop is that a Terrafirma hitch, or something else?
I really like the idea of these but ~£200 for the Terrafirma model plus a tow bar plus a recovery hitch is a bit too much for my tastes
Cheers
Matt
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Tiny little update:
You know how I said I loved eBay for getting me a set of SUs for £11.49?
I take it all back
What I've actually got is a set of standard fit Zenith Strombergs 
But every cloud has a silver lining - it's enabled me to transfer the linkages directly without swapping the manifold and carbs over, so for <10mins work the accelerator cable is now connected up and the carbs connected to each other - result
It also means I've got a spare set of identical carbs if i need them, so this mistake was probably for the best 
The manifolds are slightly different it seems, but nothing to serious
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Those are some fantastic Photoshop skills! The goal for mine is the original image
The colour is Tuscan Blue, paint code LR236 if that's any use
Cheers for thus replies guys, looks like I need to avoid avoid the later models if I want a drop-in replacement.
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That'd be great if you could mate
I can get rear cross-members new I think, but didn't you have problems with a new one from Paddocks?
Goalposts would be great, must be better than mine
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Cheers guys - looks like I need to be careful if I find a good condition replacement
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Back to the drawing board - I thought I'd tracked down a set of foot well repair panels. Alas no, no stock
Then again, I doubt it'd be too hard to fab some replacements up......
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Alright guys and gals, I've got some questions for you:
- What differences are there between RRC bulkheads? Could a last-of-the-line one be fitted onto an early model? I assume heater elements and so on are different?
- Do you know of anywhere that does repair footwells or an exchange unit like you can find for Series motors?
- Has anyone galvanised one before? I'm keen to get mine solid again and try to keep it that way for more than two minutes Did it warp in the process?
I think that's all of the questions for now
And because this topic is quite boring as a reward for getting this far, have some shamelessly stolen pictures of Range Rovers:
Matt
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Does no rear windows not count as a teething issue?
Now I want some turbovecs too
did they even come in an LR fitment? Is it just me or are the fronts a lot more offset than the rears? The offset on the rears looks pretty perfect in that last photo
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I've been running my RRC Ambulance on 235/85 for a while and they've worked well with raised suspension.
Ran Cooper STT till I wore them down, and now on KL71's which I've been very impressed with
That looks mega
Perfect overland car IMO - the comfort and luxury of a Rangie with the space of a 110 -
Car looks awesome, especially on the new wheels - I thought the Slots looked good, but these are even better!
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those new wheels look rather nice, wide arches are going to ruin the look though imhoI need to have a mess around in Photoshop, but I reckon spacing the wings out a la Group B would look MEAN
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I had a GRP tailgate a while back, the end catches were totally different, not sure what year it was from but had external handle so I sold it on.
Other than the catches was it a good fit? Did it feel like it'd take the weight of someone sitting on it? Even my "good" tailgate is bad, and I've got an aluminium top so I was considering a GRP one because I want my motor to last another 40 years, preferably without another rebuild - but if it won't last then there's no point
Also IIRC the early eaxtrnal handle tailgate has the swing down number plate, these are not legal on later cars I think. Lke the Mini they are intended to allow you to transport goods on the open tailgate.The drop down bit is correct, a '72 should definitely have one. It's got the registration plate lights built into it too so I see no reason why Mr MOT or Mr DVLA could have an issue with it:
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shouldn't need different goalposts, I believe the mechanism is the same at the sides of the tailgate. We converted a early 80's RRC from external to internal handle by just changing the lock mechanism a good few years back.
Looking at your photos the goalposts look exactly the same as mine.
I think there are some annoying subtle differences. Nothing that can't be "tweaked" though
I wouldn't worry too much about the tailgate, if I wanted something from your motor then the rear-side windows or front quarter light would be my first port of call, those plastic "locks" don't look up to the job tbqh
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That looks AWESOME
Looks like it means business without being overly "blinged" up.
The "stance" looks just right like that IMO
What's it like on articulation? Does it catch at all?
I was looking at 235 85 R16s with just a 2" suspension lift, (Mine should sit higher on a "+2" because its a lighter two door with different geometry) so I'd say it was roughly equivalent to your +3" lift.
And one last question: 16 x what modulars?
I need tor read the ALRC book on wheels and what I can and can't do for RTV's I think, I have some plans
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Normally I hate diesels. In anything. Especially in place of a V8.
But that thing is AWESOME!
a two door shouldn't be that quick! (Ok so the lack of the interior, some panels and glass might be helping there ) Roughly what power should she be putting out? Should be a fair amount more than my 138bhp
I was pondering the building a D3-engined TDV6 2 door if I needed one daily, and this has confirmed that I have to have one! All I need is the +10k for the donor D3 now
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Almost there
This is the good bit, just lots of little bits to do, but now when you get annoyed at it you can go for a pootle round the yard in it to remind yourself why you're bothering
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Some are narrower than others. The 235 is measured at the widest part of the tyre, typically the bulge halfway between the rim and the tread. So if you are looking for a tyre, measure the actual tread width. I currently have Goodyear duratreks 235's and the tread width is wider than my 255 MTs.
That's something I'd not considered actually... Is there any way to work out which tyres are wider than others other than literally measuring lots of different sets side by side?
Thanks for the pics guys, I think they look OK. I'm leaning towards some Maxxis Bighorn MT762's at the minute. Or possibly Kumho KL71's.
I've heard good things about KL71s, they've won lots of tyre tests because they seem to match the Insa Turbo Sahara and co. off-road, but actually stop and go on-road too! I'm also looking at this size for mine, what wheels will they be going on out of interest?
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One in need of slight touching up (but still about 400 times better than mine) went for 99p a couple of weeks ago!
Thing is I have no idea how I'd collect something like that, its just too bulky. Even a set of doors won't fit in a Freelander 2 with some disassembly.
I've also just bought some "twin SU cabs and mannyfold" with linkages for £11.49 - a bargain that was!
Here's hoping the seller meant carbs and manifold
rebuilding that lot properly will probably cost 5 times what they cost, but hey hoo, maybe I can just use the linkages for now....... -
Engine number is present, correct, matches the V5 and is probably the original one
Lets start with where the Book of Lies says it should be, namely in the centre of the block on the left hand (passenger) side in between the exhaust manifold branches where the dipstick meets the block:
Problem is, on early cars it isn't there. (Up to at least the first 2000 cars, probably up to Suffix B at a guess). Instead, it hides here:
What do you mean you can't see it?
Its very hard to read with the engine in place, and almost impossible to photograph. I took this standing on the front of the chassis, in the foreground, nicely out of focus and overexposed are the carbs, and the only shiny in focus bit visible is a flat surface which butts up to the "ear" on the bell-housing. And thats where Land Rover decided to hide the early P5 and RR engine numbers. So now you know
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Looking good! One thing I would say is get something over/in those open Carb throats, not good to be getting any Carborundum dust down there.
Also, be careful with any glass too, I ended up leaving tiny specks on my 90 windscreen when I cut out my footwell and I hadn't covered up stuff enough. V annoying!
Other than that, keep up the good work
Cheers for the advise, I've got some rubber gloves on them atm
Got any advice for what to cover it with? I don't really care about the doors, got some replacements for those, and the current ones already had some grinding marks on the glass when I brought it
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It's weird looking at your bulkhead/footwell area having just spent a weekend replacing my A-posts and sills, seems like the A-posts on the CSK were fairly unique. There was certainly a lot less of mine left than there is of yours at the A post section
You seem to have coped fine with yours! I'm truly stunned stunned how good this car is, almost all the panels are those that were fitted when it left the factory!
Your C posts/rear "goal posts" look to be in a bit of a state, might be fun when you come to repairing those!Its not worth saving I reckon, if I open the lower tailgate once more I risk taking what remains of the goalpost with it. I'm going to try to find one on eBay I think....
What's the deal with that exhaust manifold on the N/S, has it been welded back together?!Yup! Someone from the cars past attempted to teach a monkey to gass-less MIG weld and used this car as a test bed
I have seen those footwell panels for sale but it may have been on ebay, if I come across any on my web-travels I will let you know!That'd be great if you could, I'll keep my eye out for those rear 3/4s too, but you'll have no doubt finished by the time I track a set down
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So, update time once again:
I retook my last photo after re-setting the wipers and windscreen seal. This will probably be the closest this gets to being functional and complete for a while to come
The bonnet, grille and lights all came off:
Next came the bumper, slam panel and then I tried to take the passenger inner wing off. Some monkey had welded a patch onto the wing, not normally a problem surely? Except this patch was also welded to the bulkhead
So out came the angle grinder again.... leaving this little mess:
And a close up:
On a side note did you know that not all Range Rovers had their engine numbers stamped by the dipstick? I didn't which caused some mild confusion and panic, but the V8forum pointed me in the right direction (Left side of the block by the bellhousing "ear" for anyone who's interested)
And seeing as the angle grinder was out a little surgery was performed. I need to take lots more metal than that out before I find something strong enough to weld onto
Why does nobody make footwell repair panels anymore? These old stock items (Probably from Rimmer Bros) went on ebay earlier for £122 
With the bonnet off its hinges I could finally see the back of the carbs to have a look at my lack of linkages:
Then I started Gunking the gearbox which cleaned up reasonably well:
Then I found this plate on the side of it. I don't know why, but it amuses me every time I look at it
(Probably because I was born after we switched to metric, and I can only imagine the shock this caused in 1970 at an indy garage )
Then I went down to Gaydon on Monday for one of their Heritage shows, Wasn't worth the entrance fee IMO, £12 and you still had to pay if you wanted to wander around the museum
Still, despite not being able to see chassis number 3 because it was inside, which was one of the reasons I went, I was still able to see another two pre-pros, including this one belonging to the Dunsfold Collection:
That's the third pre-pro I've seen this week
Anyway, that's your lot for now, don't expect any updates this month, Uni finals have a habit of getting in the way of the fun stuff
Hassle free and works every time 
1971 2 Door Restoration Project
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
It's louder, therefore its better
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CftBIptJFF0