nickcc
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Posts posted by nickcc
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Pleased it worked out well for you, wish I could say the same for my Rover 75 with the same lump of rubbish.
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If you mean the front propshaft CV joint then you can lever off the metal shield, wash out and repack with normal CV joint grease. I stripped mine down when I replaced the VCU and found that it had turned to a thickish oil, the boot was ok so I repacked it.
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The regulator cables on mine had broken on the O/S/F window which jammed the motor and prevented it from operating, do the lights dim (headlights) when you operate the window switch if they do this indicates that the motor has jammed.
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Used a product called piston seal many years ago, that didn't worth either. Plenty of info on various forums regards head gasket failure on all the K series engines but have yet to find any magic cures.
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At 200,000 miles I'd definitely replace the VCU and support bearings. I changed mine at 106,000 and used Bell's at a cost of £280, I now have piece of mind. If you intend to leave in Mondo mode then you should notify your insurer as this is classed as a modification.
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Think we've missed the bit about not having a cubby tool box in the OP post. Have also read that water can enter via the roof rail bolts.
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I am just watching Wheeler Dealers on record and have seen them put Waterless Coolant in the TR6's system, would this benefit the Freelander 1 1.8 k series engine and possibly reduce the stresses on the head itself?
I am considering after getting my rear diff and VCU replaced doing this, but the cost is high.
What's your opnions? And has anybody already put this in there Freelander or other car?
Cost about £80 which also included a flush, reduces the system pressure so may help K series owners. My previous Rover 75 blew the gasket twice, once following all the mods that's why I bought a TD4
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Modified door seal app £120 from L/R. Mine still had a wet toolbox even after new door and window seals, ended up drilling a couple of small holes in the base of the toolbox and had no problem since.
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Petrols keep the revs low until the cat warms up so it reduces emissions and the diesel freelander keeps the revs low until the auto transmission warms up, no cat just a paticulate filter on diesels.
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Automatic with all the mods, EGR bypass, BMW vortex mod and Synergy 2a with Eco in cab switch, round town 30 mpg and M/Way 34 mpg. Loved staying at Loch Ken caravan park back in the seventies, apart from the midges.
55 reg TD4 Automatic F1
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Members of other LR forums have carried out the thermostat mod and even fitted electrical water pumps to solve the K series headgasket problems. Have a look on other forums if a search of this forum does not have the info you require. I fitted a new modified gasket with headskim to my Rover 75 but the gasket blew again after 10.000 miles so I sold it and bought a Freelander TD4.
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Really not bothered about return postage costs, its nothing compared to having to buy 2 VCU's if they refuse to do anything.
They have agreed to a refund and to sending me an old VCU to allow me to use it as an exchange item with someone else.
To be honest i thought i was going to have a battle on my hands, but they agreed to a refund within one day.
Just proves the best way to deal with someone, either public or company is to stay calm and reasonable.
Hopefully they wont try anything silly, like refusing a refund once a send the old unit back, i have kept the e-mails and have already forwarded them onto eBay & paypal.
AS for your kitchen units, shame i didn't know about that as i own a kitchen company, and could have sent you some units no problem, in pretty much any color and size you wanted!! plus my father works for a transport company so i get good rates on delivery etc.
Now that sounds interesting. I'm only looking for a couple of units for my utility room one is just a 800 sink unit base and the other is a tall 600 larder unit complete with doors, the ones I bought were ex MFI flatpacks and obviously returns. No problem if you have nothing suitable as my Wife is looking at going to B&Q (no more ebay)
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Luckily i bought it through e-bay via paypal, so its covered, i have had to use this in the past and found it ok, got my money back at least.
As long as they don't want the old unit back as return postage is down to you. Just been through a dispute with a kitchen unit supplier. all three units arrived damaged (either before or during delivery) the packaging was non existent just wrapped in thin cardboard. Supplier tried their hardest to get out of refunding purchase price but ebay found in my favour, Still cost me £60 to return damaged units as return costs are not covered and no refund of purchase price unless you can prove they were returned.
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Were the VCU mounting bearings genuine or poor quality alternatives, I would do a search on this and other forums for problems related to your supplier before I started changing diffs and possibly IRD's. When you fitted the new bearings did you line them up correctly as this can be another cause of excessive noise and premature bearing failure.
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I think the clutch master and slave cylinders comes complete with the pipework. I would suspect the master cylinder is faulty as the slave just usually leaks and the clutch usually slips if the centre plate is worn, don't know about the duel mass flywheel as I've never worked on one.
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Could be the ignition switch.
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I too have just bought a td4 of the 52 vintage, well pleased at the moment, pulls the caravan very well, time will tell if its a good one or not but cannot be worse than my previous omega which cost me a fortune every year, glad thats gone.
Just a few suggestions, check the VCU is OK or has been changed if more than 70,000 miles (assuming the rear drive train has not been removed) make sure the crankcase breather filter has been changed (every 12,000 miles unless fitted with BMW mod) and make sure that the tyres match across axles and newer/larger diameter tyres are fitted to the rear.
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You could do with an impact driver, tool hire shops usually have them.
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Pleased it's fixed, thanks for the feedback as this info could help others in the same position.
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The oil could be running down from the oil filter, maybe worth a look first otherwise I would remove the bottom engine cover, wash off the engine give it a run and have a good look round. You can download the Rave manual for free or buy a Haynes manual, both should show you the location of any seals which may be leaking (front crank seal seems the obvious choice)
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An extremely common problem and plenty of info on all the various LR forums. The rear door seal has been modified many times by LR in an attempt to cure this problem, new seal cost app £130 from dealer, it could also be the rear window seal needs replacing. A member of another forum found a rubber grommet was the cause of the problem so a search may give you some more options.
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Have you checked the intercooler hoses for splits, a very common problem and could give the symptoms you describe.
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Now thats finiky, 5mm tolerance????? Thats a good reason I'd never want a F1, sounds like the tyre manufacturers were involved in designing that
Not far off the tread depth of a new tyre so new on the rear and part worn on the front shouldn't cause a problem as long as the tyre depth on individual axles match.
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All Freelander (1) rear door seals have been modified to, supposedly, cure the water ingress problem. I had a new one fitted by the dealer when I bought the car, seal cost about £130, just get the condensation in the toolbox now.
IRD failure - VCU to blame or not?
in Freelander Forum
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Any lift from the IRD pinion/ output shaft, if the bearings have collapsed the oil will leak out of the end of the IRD.