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Baloo

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Posts posted by Baloo

  1. As it only happens hot, it sound like one or more of the hydraulic tappets are not pressurising correctly……………..the noise should get worse with revs……….. if is got loads of miles then I suspect a top end overhaul is in order ………….. try an oil change, sometimes it has the desired effect.

    Also, if it has moon mileage on it, then wear in the rocker shafts and rockers can cuase a rattle, but that is less common.

    :)

    Ian

    Thanks Ian, will try an oil change. doesn't usually get worse with revs tho.

    Just approaching 80k, so watch this space !

    Baloo

  2. I've heard of this but never seen it, I would guess a quick wipe with carb cleaner and then sticking them back in with hylomar or loctite or somesuch would hold them in place.

    Had the Plenum Chamber stripped and refitted today, with no probs found. Rattle is still present, done a lot of miles recently with no ill effects.

    Landy man thinks it could be a piston ring. Surely this would increase the noise in time with the engine ?

    Also, I've noticed that this rattle only comes in when engine is almost up to temp, not when cold.

    Any further ideas anyone ?

    Ta

    Baloo

  3. Hi All

    Took the 95 V8i on a longish run yesterday - beautiful !

    Today though, after a short run noticed a rattle from the engine bay. Feared the worst !

    However:

    Rattle does not seem to increase in intensity in time with revs increase, but does quicken intermittently under power and seems to be coming from the plenum chamber.

    Read somewhere that pipes in there can come loose and cause a hell of a noise. My local landy specialist thinks the same.

    Any other opinions here before I put this in to get the plenum chamber sorted. No performance problems and rattle def coming from around the plenum......

    Many thanks

    Baloo

  4. Thanks Y'all. Found the steering guard you suggest on Paddocks (PM610). Was it a fairly easy bolt on fit ?

    Baloo

    Also, looks like I'll need to remove the front spoiler, and trim down the bumper ends................ or have you fitted an earlier bumper version ?

    Ta again !

    Baloo

    post-3050-1173905841_thumb.jpg

  5. looks exactly the same pete... I've since fitted the same H/D track rods as you (looking at your photo) as I got fed up with bending the standard ones...

    Thanks Y'all. Found the steering guard you suggest on Paddocks (PM610). Was it a fairly easy bolt on fit ?

    Baloo

  6. To be honest, though some of the A bars have things that look like recovery points, I wouldn't use them to pull more than a wheelbarrow.

    Yep, good point BM, thought it could be an issue

    Would you say the same about recovery points on steering guards etc?

    Wheres the best place to put recovery shackles then, I don't really wat to replace the front bumper with a winch one... ?

    Ta

    Baloo

  7. I have wondered, but these seem to be a (fairly) new addition to the towbar market.

    I'm wondereing if they are used now for all those people who load their caravans unbalanced and then drive too fast - thus helping their caravan to go all swervy?

    Yep, went to a local caravan store yesterday to get some shorter towball bolts now I've removed the device. The bloke was telling me that it can certainly lul you in to thinking the caravan is much more stable than it actually is, until you encounter certain conditions ............................

    Baloo

  8. Hi

    Theres def the opportunity around Okehampton, I'll check my maps and come back to you.

    regards

    Baloo

    Best I can do is point you towards Rundlestone, Dartmoor on the B3357 between Two Bridges and Merrivale Grid Ref SX 577 749.

    Was there at Xmas and definately saw a group of landies, heading up in the direction of Little Mis Tor.

    Good luck and enjoy !

    Baloo

  9. IMHO of course...

    I enclose a page from the Disco parts manual and a spreadsheet [had to save as picture as site would not let me laod XL sheet] that was used by me for the basis of costing how much the repair would cost etc.

    Initial glances showed my Disco was similar to yours, but after some careful probing with a small hammer (as per the MoT tester) I discovered that their was corrosion in most of the main floor panel, and its seams with the smaller parts that go around the wheel arches. Also the rear body cross member was gone and even the repair mount kits would not coveer the rust.

    I also decided to take the trim out from the rear sides, and the NS where the body and floor join up the wheel arch was also gone.

    I got OE parts from local dealer who gave me trade prices (well have had lots of Rovers and currently have two).

    BTW, front inner wings are also very holey, and the sills needed repairing.

    Hope the enclosed helps, and also if you need a welder in the SE I know a good man in Kent (not me, he is a mobile mechanic)

    Thanks Nic, a great help, been quoted£550 to replace the floor alone, needto have a good look around an establsh exect extent of corrosion............ :unsure:

    Baloo

  10. It's for a stabaliser/anti-snake device, like this....

    caravanstabiliser100qb.jpg

    If you don't have the long bit, or the caravan to go with it then whip it off.

    Thanks Mark

    Couldn't see your pic, but get the pic if you see what I mean !

    Coming off tommorrow !

    Ta

    Baloo

  11. Thats not really a problem if the shock is still ok... just remove the rusty bits.. i run my pro comps with out the dust boots as you dont get mud/crud/water build up.

    if the shock is dead and your on a budget get the Armstrong oil shocks @ 10 quid a go. I have run them on mine and at that price are almost disposable :D

    remember to replace in pairs tho... when i got my truck it had a mix of shocks (gas and oil) and made the ride interesting <_<

    Thanks for the advice Matey, everything seems to run fine, so thats a bonus..... ! Nt sure if the staining is oil tho

    Will get them replaced, but just forked out for rear floor replacement, so maybe soon ;)

    Baloo

  12. :hysterical: wait till you see mine. I'm just trying to find somewhere where it is still attached.

    More seriously though. Those many small rust patches are just the tip of the iceberg so to speak. These spots are where rust has formed in the gaps UNDER the floor in the gap between floor and cross bars and is now starting to come through. Treating the top of the 'iceberg' may not help much. You'll need to tackle it from underneath.

    Thats what I feared! :angry: I think I'll need to get some expert help with this. It's a solid old truck generally, so worth getting this sorted properly.

    Thanks Guys

    Baloo

  13. Hi All

    I've attached a couple of pics of my 95 300 series (78k miles, pretty solid elsewhere) discovery rear floor.

    Lots of small areas of corrosion, but only one hole, 2 inches by one inch where the offside of the floor panel joins the side panel.

    I've treated the corroded areas with Hammerite KillRust after severely wire brushing them and will prime them tommorrow.

    Whats your opinion here. Should I replace the floor panel, or get the holed area patched ?

    Whats the cost of a full replacement inc labour etc likely to be.

    Ta

    Baloo

    post-3050-1173380697_thumb.jpg

    post-3050-1173381009_thumb.jpg

  14. Hi

    Spent a few hours looking through the Forums today after resgistering earlier. What can I say ? Some serious knowledge here !

    Just picked up a beautiful 3 door 1995 Disco V8 Auto, 78k miles, and am just about to give her an oil change.

    How often should the cam / timing chain on these monsters be changed ? Read a lot elsewhere about the diesels and cam belts, but not a lot about the V8's.

    I've had a good old poke around under the bonnet and underneath at all the ususal stuff, every thing seems OK. Is there anything else. unique to Disco's, I should be looking at ? Hi / low ratio works well, as does diff lock.

    Thanks in advance

    Baloo

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