Baldewin
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Posts posted by Baldewin
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Thanks to both of you,
Cheers
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Is the water passage way in the water pump bracket ERR3736 coated, or does it come bare aluminum. Mine is off right now and appears to have an orange/green color and I’m not sure if that’s a coating or staining from coolant.
The reason I ask is mine needs repair on the mating surface to the water pump. Was thinking about having it tig welded but concerned that the heat may damage the coating if it were coated. Does anyone know? The alternative would be an epoxy repair.
Cheers in advance,
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Reviving an old thread here! I recently picked up a 300tdi from a discovery but don’t have the vin number for it. I pulled the front cover and it appears to have the old style idler pulley and timing gear. (Lips on the idler pulley, none on the gear). I’ve read that there is a kit that fixes this but it looks pretty spendy, so my questions are.
On kit STC4095K how did they modify the FIP bracket. Can the existing bracket be modified and if so how? Why do they include a new timing cover with this kit?
I’m a little dense and I’ve read this thread multiple times and don’t understand the difference between STC4095L and STC4096L? More importantly, how do I tell which kit do I need for the motor that I have?
Thanks in advance,
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Circling back on this topic. Does anyone have a line on the bracket, plate, pump for the 2.5 or 200 tdi that they are willing to sell and willing to ship to the states?
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My only reservation on the Hylosil is any air bubbles that my occur when it is injected, or will it force out all of the air?
A question I have, can you replace the t-seals while the engine and trans are in place or will this knacker the O-ring between the block and transmission adapter plate?
Cheers,
Chris
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I'm curious why one would use the cork seals when you could inject sealant? Have any of you tried the sealant method and what were the results?PM sent
Cheers
Chris
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Would you have the same opinion with Biodiesel?this engine is not a suitable candidate for this conversion.Cheers
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2 pin diff so it could be either then.
That's a given!
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No the question has not yet ben ansered and thank you for your interest. I am able to look inside and it is a 2 pin differential.Just a thought if this has not yet been answered. Has the 90/110 front axle got a filler in the dif pan like a series front, cos on my 2a front axle you could see the diff thro the filler hole well enough to see if it was a 2 pin or 4 pin unit.Cheers,
Chris
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Would anyone know if the front shafts are 24 spline based on the following? The truck is an exmod, has 24 spline HD half shafts in the rear and has/had a 4 pin diff. The axle number on the front is 23L06565B. I know I can pull the front end open and look but would rather not at this time.
Cheers,
Chris
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Thanks Jim
How about the front axle half shafts. Is there any way to tell if they are 10 or 24 spline without removing them? I definitly have 24hd axles in the rear with the 4 pin diff. The truck is an exmod and the front axle number is 23Lo6565B.
Cheers!
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2,5NAD, right? There is a gasket in the form of a rubber sleeve on the cap. If that's to worn, this can happen.
I have one spare...
If it is 2.5nad just remove the ribbed rubber gasket, wipe the cap clean, wrap with a few layers of electrical tape, reinstall the gasket and you should have a snug fit. It worked for me.
Chis
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Prith & RecoveryMan,
Thanks for the responses, I've acquired a four bolt steering box and figure that I can use a PAS from a V8 over here. The mount is a differnt story and I will have to make one or get one from your part of the world. The hoses I can probably have made here also.
Thanks again,
Chris
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I would like to add power steering to my 2.5na. I have a box, but the tough part for me to source here in the states is the mount. Is there a specific mount for the 2.5? Will one from a 2.5td or a 200tdi work? The other question is, will the two belt crank pully be sufficient?
Thanks in advance,
Chris
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What about the 2.5na. Any issue running bio in it? Does it hurt the seals in the injector pump?
Cheers
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Kim,
Yes it is the inspection hole that you speak of. I took a closer look and found the crank bolt was loose and had backed out about 1 to 2 mm's. I'm guessing that the seal is now toast and this is possibly the source of my leak. I was thingking that the smoke or exhaust that I'm seeing is blow by but after reading the post about the 2.5td rebuild mine doesn't sound that bad.
Cheers,
Chris
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Yes it is the inspection hole in the cam belt housing. I've had a further look and found the bolt on the crank pulley was loose. I'm guessing the that the crank seal maybe buggered as the bolt had worked it's way out about a millimeter or two. My suspicion on the smoke is, that it is engine blow by. After reading a similar post today about a 2.5td rebuild I don't think mine are bad compared to that one.Is the "wadding hole" you are referring to the inspection hole in the cambelt housing? Engine front end, below cranckshaft pulley, close to front end of the sump?If so, you should investigate the reason for drip and smoke imediently... Both oil and diesel contamination will cause the timing belt to fail. There should *not* be smoke coming out of the inspection hole. This could be the sign of imminent failure. Diesel contamination will cause the timing belt to fail over a period of few hours, if engine is worked hard.
The timing belt runs in its own enclosure. This should be totally sealed. The smoke *should* not be related to the piston rings. If it is, the engine have suffered some rather weird damage...
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I noticed a new drip coming from the the front wadding hole on my 2.5na. It looked like more than a drip as there were quite a few spots on the drive. Was curious as to how bad the leak was so I let it idle while I watched for drips. While watching for drips I could see a small amount of smoke coming from the weep hole. Is this normal or is it possible that I have some bad piston rings that are causing this.
Cheers
Chris
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Thanks for the input. I've read that the number stamped into the input shaft coralates to the distance away from the carrier and wasn't sure if they did that prior to or after setting up the diff. One would think if they did this prior to setting up the diff then the shims would remain the same. I can see how it would change if it was done after the bearings were installed but that seams like alot of work to go back and stamp after you have set it up. Don't know and that's why I'm asking.
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I've bit the bullet and will be installing a rear locker. With about 80,000 kilometers on the clock should I rebuild the whole 3rd member (pinion seal, pinion bearings, diff, diff bearings) or just install the diff with new bearings?
If I understand correctly, the pinion backlash adjustment is done with the use of shims. (Not Sals) If I reuse the same housing, ring, and pinion, I should use the same shims and it should be setup as it came from the factory?
Also the ring gear is similar in that there is no backlash adjustment on it? If it's bad you just need to get a new ring & pinion? Run out on the other hand can and needs to be checked as there might be something wedged between the diff flange and the ring gear.
Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Chris
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Thanks Jim
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So, what your saying is the millitary calls them HD but in reality they are no differn't than standard V-8 axles and if I wan't true HD axles I would need to get them from an Ashcroft or Maxdrive type place.
300tdi oil pump plate
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
When I tore down my 300tdi there was no sealant on the oil pump plate, as I put it back together I read in the manual that I should apply RTV to the plate as I reassemble it.
What have you gents typically done?
Cheers,
Chris